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MT82-D4 rebuild thread

ice445

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Seems like changing the trans fluid even on a low mileage vehicle would be a good idea.
Definitely worth it. I swapped out to Motul Multi DCTF around 15k miles, and everything felt just nicer in general. Synchro engagement and notch was improved for sure.

I can't find any proof of it (besides in the factory service manual, it lists an additive to use on a fresh build), but I'm fairly certain the factory adds some sort of brass conditioner to help wear in the synchros and dog rings. But if it's left in indefinitely, I would think it would lead to an early demise of some parts. But they do insist there's no service interval on the manual trans, so it should at least last through the warranty period, lmao.

For what it's worth though, the factory fluid came out 100% perfect on my car with not one piece of shiny metal.

Shame about the wrong parts OP, hopefully you can find the right ones soon. Tasca is definitely very hit or miss.
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I want to share some information here on where I believe the confusion stemmed from. It appears that I misidentified the damaged gears and hereā€™s how:

I ordered a PDF service manual for the 2015-2019 Mustang GT to aid me in the rebuild process and used the exploded view diagram of the countershaft and gear cluster to identify the gear orientation on my countershaft. The problem is, the gear orientation in the SM diagram references a 2016 GT, which is obviously different from the 2019 GT. After receiving a new diagram from Benny at Levittown Ford yesterday, I was able to confirm this. With that being said, the damaged gears are actually 4th and 6th, not 5th and 3rd as I had initially thought (based on the diagram in the SM). I wanted to point this out to save others the frustration that Iā€™ve had to endure in ordering the wrong gears and having to reorder the correct ones. Please see diagrams and info. below for visual representations.

2015-2019 SM - Exploded view diagram of countershaft and gear cluster:

1667905732546.png


Exploded view diagram of countershaft and gear cluster, along with information that I received from Benny at Levittown Ford yesterday:

1667905873355.png


Hi Adrian,

7112 = 4th Gear
7M164 = 6th Gear

With that being said here are the links

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-gear-counter-shaft-4th-speed-jr3z7112a
https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-gear-6th-speed-jr3z7j101a

1667905900906.png
 
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Shame about the wrong parts OP, hopefully you can find the right ones soon. Tasca is definitely very hit or miss.
It certainly was. There was definitely some confusion taking place. I think Iā€™m finally on the right track now though.
 
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With all of the down time, I my mind often wanders and I think of other mods to do. Thatā€™s the downside of having a waiting period, as it can cost more money.

Now, I am in the process of modifying the tranny housing to accept an external transmission fluid pump. I wanted to do this to make sure that the gears at the front of the transmission have a constant supply of oil during launches and heavy acceleration, when the oil is held at the back half of the tranny by g-forces.

This mod required drilling a 1/4ā€ hole through the side of the forward casing half to accept a weld on -6AN male flare fitting. Iā€™ll need to locate a very capable welder to weld on the fitting, as well as, weld a bracket for the pump, which I plan to mount in the left corner of the front bumper, to gain easy access to it if needed. Stay tuned for more info. on this mod.

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Duece McCracken

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With all of the down time, I my mind often wanders and I think of other mods to do. Thatā€™s the downside of having a waiting period, as it can cost more money.

Now, I am in the process of modifying the tranny housing to accept an external transmission fluid pump. I wanted to do this to make sure that the gears at the front of the transmission have a constant supply of oil during launches and heavy acceleration, when the oil is held at the back half of the tranny by g-forces.

This mod required drilling a 1/4ā€ hole through the side of the forward casing half to accept a weld on -6AN male flare fitting. Iā€™ll need to locate a very capable welder to weld on the fitting, as well as, weld a bracket for the pump, which I plan to mount in the left corner of the front bumper, to gain easy access to it if needed. Stay tuned for more info. on this mod.

97A523E7-92A6-45CE-BC49-2D475389D263.jpeg
576220DF-AA6E-407E-A673-B1A5AA911472.jpeg
4CB61928-31DD-480C-8DE3-82BAF7F137AC.jpeg
ED4AE29B-FB8B-416F-837D-DACC91EC92E4.jpeg
A415260C-25A3-44DF-AFF9-6F563A2FC182.jpeg
You're a mad scientist for sure. I love this!
 

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@Duece McCracken, thanks. I didnā€™t expect to have the car on the lift for this long, but figured since it is, I might as well do what I can to make it better. I keep telling myself that the reward will be worth the effort at the end of all of this madness.
 

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Instead of welding the AN fitting (and I suppose there is not enough metal to tap the hole) could the welder add enough metal to drill/tap the hole or add a tapped collar around the boss?
 
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Instead of welding the AN fitting (and I suppose there is not enough metal to tap the hole) could the welder add enough metal to drill/tap the hole or add a tapped collar around the boss?
It may be hard to tell in the pic, but the boss is actually cone shaped. Yes, it could be filled with weld, drilled and then tapped. Not sure about the tapped collar around the boss though.

Hereā€™s a pic of the other identical blind hole that is just above the one I drilled. I only enlarged it slightly, so that the step in the -AN fitting would sit flush inside of it. I would guess that the opening (untouched) is about 17MM and the very bottom (small end of cone) is about 4-5MM. Using a step drill bit worked out perfectly and allowed me to enlarge the opening another 2MM, to fit the step on the -AN fitting which is 19MM.

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I am (was) an electrical engineer so my knowledge of welding is only what I picked up from my mechanical engineer colleagues. Anyway, the alloy of the transmission housing and the AN fitting is sure to be different. Is that a concern for welding or do I need to ask my old co-coworkers (who all retired when I did and claim they don't remember anything). ;)
 
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I am (was) an electrical engineer so my knowledge of welding is only what I picked up from my mechanical engineer colleagues. Anyway, the alloy of the transmission housing and the AN fitting is sure to be different. Is that a concern for welding or do I need to ask my old co-coworkers (who all retired when I did and claim they don't remember anything). ;)
I donā€™t think itā€™ll be a concern at all. Tick Performance does this mod on their T56 transmissions. Take a look here.

 

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I test fit the front half of the transmission case to the engine and confirmed that there is ample clearance for a second fluid pump feed fitting, so I repeated the process from yesterday. If one was going to be good, two should be better, right? It sure would be nice if the entire transmission was just as light.

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Exciting news! I received the gears from Levittown Ford and theyā€™re the correct ones. Thanks to you Benny and the guys, who processed the order for me. Iā€˜m hoping to ship all internals out for their enhanced treatments tomorrow.
 
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Parts weā€™re shipped today! Iā€™m really looking forward to seeing the finished product, but not the price tag that comes along with it. Shipping one way was $160 for an 85 LB, 20X20X12 box (minus the cost of packing materials which was another $50). I hope the WPC quote isnā€™t too crazy, but just in case, I should probably make a contingency plan and decide which parts I would absolutely want to have treated.

I know I could have bought a T56 Magnum XL for what Iā€˜ll have wrapped up in tools and parts, etc., but that would just be an off rhe shelf unit with no beefed up components. Sometimes I still ask myself why I didnā€™t go with a T56 though.
 
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yeah but then you'd have to do a colab with Arduino guy.
True. Iā€™m going to pray that the route Iā€™m taking will be more than sufficient to suit my needs. I donā€™t believe the T56 is bulletproof either and it too, could benefit from enhancements (whether thst be billet gears or faceplating). No matter how you slice it, itā€™s all expensive as hell.
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