MT82-D4 rebuild thread

[NGOT8R]

I received my Synchrotech Pro Series - Carbon Synchro Kit for gears 1-6 today. They look like they should be an improvement over the factory synchros.

Sponsored

 

[Duece McCracken]

I received my Synchrotech Pro Series - Carbon Synchro Kit for gears 1-6 today. They look like they should be an improvement over the factory synchros.

I've had great experiences running Synchrotechs in a different Getrag. Good stuff!

 

[NGOT8R]

I've had great experiences running Synchrotechs in a different Getrag. Good stuff!

Glad to hear that! I was hoping someone would chime in and post their personal experiences with them. Would you say shifts were noticeably smoother with them?

 

[Duece McCracken]

Glad to hear that! I was hoping someone would chime in and post their personal experiences with them. Would you say shifts were noticeably smoother with them?

Smoother than the broken OEM synchros...

Lol, its not so much shifter feel, but ability to handle more abuse. Fast hard shifts.

 

[NGOT8R]

Smoother than the broken OEM synchros...

Lol, its not so much shifter feel, but ability to handle more abuse. Fast hard shifts.

That’s exactly what I’m looking for; extreme durability.

 

[ice445]

It sure seems to be headed in that direction. Brittle gears being pressed off just like the service manual says and teeth began popping off and flying across the garage. I’m glad I wear safety glasses because a few of the teeth took off like bullets being fired from a gun.

I suspect they saved some money on this design by using a cheaper process for the overdrive gears (after all you're not supposed to be bang shifting to 5 or 6 haha). As for why teeth were breaking off on removal, I'm not sure it's much to do with the gears themselves but rather the excessive force that was needed to unseat them

 

[NGOT8R]

I suspect they saved some money on this design by using a cheaper process for the overdrive gears (after all you're not supposed to be bang shifting to 5 or 6 haha). As for why teeth were breaking off on removal, I'm not sure it's much to do with the gears themselves but rather the excessive force that was needed to unseat them

I absolutely agree with everything you just said. What is interesting though is when I was speaking to the guy from Ben Calimer’s Transmissions, he asked me what clutch I was running and I told him I have a Ram Pro Street Twin Disc. He said: “Yeah, 1000 hp clutch, that’s why the gears broke on you.“ I didn’t even tell him that they broke while pressing them off of the countershaft. He went on to say they would keep breaking, which to me suggests that no matter what the upgrades are internally, a weak link must be included or breakage might be a high probability, depending on clutch choice, one’s driving style and use of the car.

 

[NGOT8R]

What’s everyone’s thoughts on painting the transmission housing before reassembly? I have little to no experience in this area, but do have enough sense to know that a thorough cleaning would be paramount to ensure proper adhesion. Has here done any painting of cast aluminum themselves and if so, do you have tips and pics that you can post here?

I‘ve seen pics of Calimer transmission housings that have been painted a dark gray. Not sure if this is now standard practice for their builds or if it’s optional. From what I can see, the paint doesn’t hold well (at least in some of the pics I’ve seen). If I were to do this, I’d want to prep and use a product that would hold very well and resist any fluids that might get onto the housing when connecting the clutch line etc. Another concern is getting into all of the areas with webbing without getting paint runs or thick buildup. I’ve thought about powder coating as well, but that’s likely to be very expensive and I don’t know if the heat required during the process (375* or so) would affect The integrity of the casings.

 

[Duece McCracken]

What’s everyone’s thoughts on painting the transmission housing before reassembly? I have little to no experience in this area, but do have enough sense to know that a thorough cleaning would be paramount to ensure proper adhesion. Has here done any painting of cast aluminum themselves and if so, do you have tips and pics that you can post here?

I‘ve seen pics of Calimer transmission housings that have been painted a dark gray. Not sure if this is now standard practice for their builds or if it’s optional. From what I can see, the paint doesn’t hold well (at least in some of the pics I’ve seen). If I were to do this, I’d want to prep and use a product that would hold very well and resist any fluids that might get onto the housing when connecting the clutch line etc. Another concern is getting into all of the areas with webbing without getting paint runs or thick buildup. I’ve thought about powder coating as well, but that’s likely to be very expensive and I don’t know if the heat required during the process (375* or so) would affect The integrity of the casings.

Get it anodized green!!! Lmfao!

Sorry, im no real help in this department.

 

[NGOT8R]

Get it anodized green!!! Lmfao!

Sorry, im no real help in this department.

I saw a pic of a Bullitt with ceramic coated green LTHs and mid pipes. Looked really good too! i can’t remember if it was on here or somewhere else. I wonder how well it’s holding up.

 

[Veteran]

What’s everyone’s thoughts on painting the transmission housing before reassembly? I have little to no experience in this area, but do have enough sense to know that a thorough cleaning would be paramount to ensure proper adhesion. Has here done any painting of cast aluminum themselves and if so, do you have tips and pics that you can post here?

I‘ve seen pics of Calimer transmission housings that have been painted a dark gray. Not sure if this is now standard practice for their builds or if it’s optional. From what I can see, the paint doesn’t hold well (at least in some of the pics I’ve seen). If I were to do this, I’d want to prep and use a product that would hold very well and resist any fluids that might get onto the housing when connecting the clutch line etc. Another concern is getting into all of the areas with webbing without getting paint runs or thick buildup. I’ve thought about powder coating as well, but that’s likely to be very expensive and I don’t know if the heat required during the process (375* or so) would affect The integrity of the casings.

Have a look at Cerakote.
very thin , durable, heat resistant up to 1800F and can be sprayed at home.

 

[stang1087]

@stang1087, thanks again for going out of your way to post the information that I needed. Although there was some confusion in looking at internet photos and the actual gears from my tranny, I feel confident that the info. listed in your RO is accurate. With that being said, I placed an order for the gears today. Hopefully I’ll have them by mid Nov. I’ll definitely post an update once I get them in hand.

Happy to help. I'm watching this thread to see how it turns out. Even after the repairs I'm not thrilled about my trans and have been thinking about a T56 or 3160 swap. To be fair I don't remember it shifting poorly or notchy before I broke my 3-4 fork last year and that repair only lasted 6,000 miles before I found metal shavings.

 

[NGOT8R]

Happy to help. I'm watching this thread to see how it turns out. Even after the repairs I'm not thrilled about my trans and have been thinking about a T56 or 3160 swap. To be fair I don't remember it shifting poorly or notchy before I broke my 3-4 fork last year and that repair only lasted 6,000 miles before I found metal shavings.

I’m praying that everything goes back together without any further hiccups and there’s a big improvement.

Were there lots of metal shavings after those 6K miles? Were you just being proactive in changing the fluid when you discovered it?

 

[stang1087]

I didn't really drain the oil. Shifting was getting worse so I decided to take a look expecting to find something. I wrapped a shop towel around the drain plug as I loosed it until I saw some wetness on the towel. There was quite a bit of glitter in that little bit of oil. I didn't want to drain it so the metal shavings would be present when the tech tore it down.

The same tech worked on it both times. I'm not terribly confident in his work since my shifter mount was loose, the oil fill plug was loose, and he installed a studded bolt on the wrong spot. This led to my passenger side upstream o2 sensor wire sitting on the cat.

 

[NGOT8R]

I didn't really drain the oil. Shifting was getting worse so I decided to take a look expecting to find something. I wrapped a shop towel around the drain plug as I loosed it until I saw some wetness on the towel. There was quite a bit of glitter in that little bit of oil. I didn't want to drain it so the metal shavings would be present when the tech tore it down.

The same tech worked on it both times. I'm not terribly confident in his work since my shifter mount was loose, the oil fill plug was loose, and he installed a studded bolt on the wrong spot. This led to my passenger side upstream o2 sensor wire sitting on the cat.

That’s too bad to hear about the lack of attention to detail by the tech that worked on your car. Every time I hear stories like this, it gives me the drive that’s needed to take on as much as I can myself when it comes to repairs or mods on my car. At least I know I’m going to do my best to do a bang-up job and not cut any corners.

Sponsored