I'm doing 0.2 degree toe-out on the front 0.2 toe-in on the rear and it's working like a charm.What is the maximum reasonable front toe-out for road course events?
It's been reported on the forum that 0.4 toe change can be expected when changing between street and track camber.Are these track only cars or are you guys running back and forth to the alignment shop?
There's really no need for street and track alignments. Camber doesn't hurt tire wear so set it as aggressive as you want for the track and leave it. Zero toe front is perfect for dual purpose cars. If track only car, you can try a little bit of toe outIt's been reported on the forum that 0.4 toe change can be expected when changing between street and track camber.
So if 0.2 toe out is acceptable for the track, then that puts it back to 0.2 toe in on street.
I want to know if I can avoid the alignment shop by choosing a set toe angle.
Thanks but my car is >95% street and I don't want to sacrifice street traction on AS tires either.There's really no need for street and track alignments. Camber doesn't hurt tire wear so set it as aggressive as you want for the track and leave it. Zero toe front is perfect for dual purpose cars. If track only car, you can try a little bit of toe out
I wanted to believe this years ago, but it’s just not true on heavy, high HP cars driven at/near the limit at very high speeds (and the resultant heavy braking, which I think is the culprit). I run -4.25 up front, 0 toe w/ spherical bearings (no rubber = no movement under heavy load), and ABS. Here’s what my inside fronts looked like (note the usable tread left elsewhere), after excursions at UMC and LVMS (as well as concrete autox/prosolo exposure at Lincoln and Crows Landing):Camber doesn't hurt tire wear so set it as aggressive as you want for the track and leave it.
I guess I could've put more detail into my overly-generalized statement.I wanted to believe this years ago, but it’s just not true on heavy, high HP cars driven at/near the limit at very high speeds (and the resultant heavy braking, which I think is the culprit). I run -4.25 up front, 0 toe w/ spherical bearings (no rubber = no movement under heavy load), and ABS. Here’s what my inside fronts looked like (note the usable tread left elsewhere), after excursions at UMC and LVMS (as well as concrete autox/prosolo exposure at Lincoln and Crows Landing):
Have the alignment shop set it for 0.2 toe-in, mark the tie rods, then set for 0.2 toe-out and get them to check how many turns it takes on the tie rods. This should be something we can then adjust at home with good repeatability.It's been reported on the forum that 0.4 toe change can be expected when changing between street and track camber.
So if 0.2 toe out is acceptable for the track, then that puts it back to 0.2 toe in on street.
I want to know if I can avoid the alignment shop by choosing a set toe angle.
Yeah this is what I want to do the most. If the delta is really as high as 0.4 then I would probably take the trouble to do this. But it is pretty easy to get confused and mess it up too.Have the alignment shop set it for 0.2 toe-in, mark the tie rods, then set for 0.2 toe-out and get them to check how many turns it takes on the tie rods. This should be something we can then adjust at home with good repeatability.
-4.25 is to much camber for our cars you are going to destroy the front tires not to mention extreemley dangerous under heavy braking. Also Semi-Slick or street tires are not made to work with so much camber. In a Mustang more than -3 is a lot if you are not running Slicks.I run -4.25 up front, 0 toe w/ spherical bearings (no rubber = no movement under heavy load), and ABS.
0,2 total is not darty at least for me and in fact is very beneficial both on track and on the street and I don't see any issues with tire wear both on street and on the track.you don't want >0.1 toe (front) on each side (0.2 total) and frankly a darty car (toe-out) isn't helpful unless you are prepared for that.