Road Course Suspension

[DAVECS1]

Yea it was hard explaining to my car buddies this was the first mod I spent my money on. No exhaust no cold air intake, you bought bushings, who buys bushings LOL!

In all seriousness though I worked at Roush in the early 2000s when the first Corbra IRS came out. We actually designed a new cradle similar to the one under he S550and used Delrin bushings. That allowed it to be used at Bondurant. So I knew what I had to do once I procured my GT.

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[thatonenozz]

[MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] how are your poly bushings compared to your delrin? I noticed for your diff bushings you only sell Poly or aluminum, but your subframe bushings come in Poly or delrin. I am concerned about the poly being too soft, but I also do not want the jarring ride I think I would get with the aluminum diff bushings. Would you recommend your delrin subframe bushings with poly diff bushings or should I stick with poly for both? I don't mind increased NVH up to a certain point, but I just don't want the car to suck for daily driving either.

 

[BMR Tech]

Do the Delrin Cradle Bushings and leave the diff alone. Trust me.

Maybe, down the road, add some poly diff inserts at most.

I do not recommend the Poly Cradle Bushings. I would rather see someone use our CB005 Lockout Kit, over the Poly Cradle Bushings. Not that they are not good...but it's just too much work, to put poly in the most important part of that assembly.

 

[thatonenozz]

Went ahead and ordered the delrin cradle bushings. Thank you Kelly for your recommendations!

 

[Andrewg]

Yea it was hard explaining to my car buddies this was the first mod I spent my money on. No exhaust no cold air intake, you bought bushings, who buys bushings LOL!

I know the feeling! After the JLT oil separator the first things to go on were BMR's cradle lock out, poly diff bushings, vertical links, lower control arm bearing kit and sway bars. Came from a 2007 GT with BMR everything and coilovers so despite the IRS the 2015 in stock form just didn't cut it in the handling department.

[MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] how are your poly bushings compared to your delrin? I noticed for your diff bushings you only sell Poly or aluminum, but your subframe bushings come in Poly or delrin. I am concerned about the poly being too soft, but I also do not want the jarring ride I think I would get with the aluminum diff bushings. Would you recommend your delrin subframe bushings with poly diff bushings or should I stick with poly for both? I don't mind increased NVH up to a certain point, but I just don't want the car to suck for daily driving either.

The poly diff bushings were a b*tch to install. A lot of work and time involved. In hind site I wouldn't do them again and maybe go with BK054 - Diff bushing lockout kit instead. That being said, they do work very well and the difference over stock is noticeable. It's amazing how much the diff moves around even with them installed. Can't imagine how much play there was with the stock ones. I have had a clunk when pressing the clutch ever since I had them installed and put it down to more NVH being transferred. Annoying but I could live with it. Had the dealership look at the car during a recent service and it turns out it's the opposite! Even with the diff bushings the diff moves about almost 8mm with all the slack in the drivetrain. My 3" exhaust piping when on a lift and cold clears the diff by at least 10mm but the diff moves enough to 'kiss' it every time the clutch pedal is pressed creating the clunk.

Do the Delrin Cradle Bushings and leave the diff alone. Trust me.

Maybe, down the road, add some poly diff inserts at most.

I do not recommend the Poly Cradle Bushings. I would rather see someone use our CB005 Lockout Kit, over the Poly Cradle Bushings. Not that they are not good...but it's just too much work, to put poly in the most important part of that assembly.

CB005 lock out kit is the t*ts. Made a huge difference. With a loud exhaust I didn't notice any NVH whatsoever. I suspect the delrin cradle bushings might be a bit rough for a daily driver with a moderate NVH increase but the CB005 kit is perfect for a daily driver. Front chassis brace will be the next BMR part to install.

 

[DAVECS1]

The Delrin, suprisingly, does not add that much noise to the car. Where I notice it the most is on ruff concrete or road surfaces, the tire noise seems to be picked up like a microphone through the chassis. I imagine you may be able to fix that a bit with tire and wheel choice.

Beyond that, I think road irregularities and bumps actually sound and feel better with the delrin, my guess is because the suspension is actually handling these things instead of the cradle moving around.

 

[Norm Peterson]

The Delrin, suprisingly, does not add that much noise to the car. Where I notice it the most is on ruff concrete or road surfaces, the tire noise seems to be picked up like a microphone through the chassis. I imagine you may be able to fix that a bit with tire and wheel choice.

I wonder if you could attenuate the high frequency stuff by encasing a smaller diameter Delrin piece with a thin layer of something a little softer. Or possibly a Delrin - something soft - Delrin sandwich. Undoubtably more expensive, but perhaps more acceptable for the street duty side of a car that's mainly street with only a little of the really serious driving.


Norm

 

[wildcatgoal]

Do y'all rememebr how loud your car was inside stock? Then after you added an exhaust?

Road noise... it's a characteristic of the Mustang. My previous car, a Chevy Volt (don't make fun, was a great car and I miss it), was so quiet it literally confused people. My Chevy truck is notably quieter than my stock Mustang was, and the truck had off-road tires.

Just deal with the noise (so long as it isn't a clunking/clanking driveline or obviously broken something-or-other, of course).

 

[DAVECS1]

The noise does not bother me at all. My car is not a DD. It has been purchased primarily for motorsports and the occasional car show event.

 

[Whiskey11]

Do y'all rememebr how loud your car was inside stock? Then after you added an exhaust?

Road noise... it's a characteristic of the Mustang. My previous car, a Chevy Volt (don't make fun, was a great car and I miss it), was so quiet it literally confused people. My Chevy truck is notably quieter than my stock Mustang was, and the truck had off-road tires.

Just deal with the noise (so long as it isn't a clunking/clanking driveline or obviously broken something-or-other, of course).

The first thing I did when I test drove a 2015 Mustang was complain to the salesman about how quiet the 2015's were inside... I came from a 2009 Premium GT on Full suspension (no rubber in my suspension!), good sounding but not stupid loud exhaust, and coilovers and that car was almost too quiet too. There wasn't a rubber bushing in that car except the rear swaybar (stock), most were sphericals, but some poly... This 2015... I can have a conversation in it and not feel like I need to yell... that's too quiet!

I need something more raw than that!

 

[BMR Tech]

I wonder if you could attenuate the high frequency stuff by encasing a smaller diameter Delrin piece with a thin layer of something a little softer. Or possibly a Delrin - something soft - Delrin sandwich. Undoubtably more expensive, but perhaps more acceptable for the street duty side of a car that's mainly street with only a little of the really serious driving.


Norm

Norm, see - this is what I thought of over two years ago.

Then I came to the realization....that it was pointless.

The Cradle Lockout kit removes a massive amount of the movement fore, aft, laterally and vertically. The poly does as well. So at that point, there likely is no benefit to consider something much more complicated and expensive, when it would likely not outperform our homerun product, the CB005. The CB005 is a 45 min install too, which is much better than 6 hours. lol

 

[Norm Peterson]

Norm, see - this is what I thought of over two years ago.

Somehow, that doesn't surprise me at all ;)


Norm

 

[wildcatgoal]

The first thing I did when I test drove a 2015 Mustang was complain to the salesman about how quiet the 2015's were inside... I came from a 2009 Premium GT on Full suspension (no rubber in my suspension!), good sounding but not stupid loud exhaust, and coilovers and that car was almost too quiet too. There wasn't a rubber bushing in that car except the rear swaybar (stock), most were sphericals, but some poly... This 2015... I can have a conversation in it and not feel like I need to yell... that's too quiet!

I need something more raw than that!

Then change out your bushings, motor mounts, and transmission mounts and install Bridgestone Potenza summer tires, which are the loudest summer tire to ever have been made.

 

[Whiskey11]

Then change out your bushings, motor mounts, and transmission mounts and install Bridgestone Potenza summer tires, which are the loudest summer tire to ever have been made.

Can't, can't, can't and already on the RE71R's. :lol:

If you think an S550 is loud inside, you need to go drive an 05-09 car or an older one. These things are sound proof rooms in comparison... even not modified!

 

[Mattrix]

I have the Ford Performance Track Shock/Strut/Spring setup with the Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates. I have the Steeda front and rear sway bars and have them on the stiffest setting. I went with Steeda mostly because of the 3 adjustments over the 2 from most other sway bars. I also have the Steeda strut tower brace, G-Trac Brace and those really help keep the front end level and stable around corners and when braking. I then have the Steeda rear subframe braces to help keep the back wheels planted.

I do plan to do the rest of the available suspension mods at some point but the next thing on the list is lighter wheels and some track tires. After that will be at least a 4 point cage

You can see how my car handles in this video.
[ame]

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