Lug Nuts

[robvas]

I'm surprise more people don't use a motorsport-derived open back, single piece lug nut. I run a squared 305 setup on my S550, so I needed extended lug nuts and a small 5mm spacer. Open backs won't swell and work on every lug nut combo. You just need a deep socket on hand.

Also, most tracks are going to require open back lugnuts anyway

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[AnywhereInTX]

Also, most tracks are going to require open back lugnuts anyway

Bingo. Long run they are cheaper too. Plus, you can just spray paint them if the looks are truly bothering you. But, I am a function over form owner. Just need it to work.

 

[D Bergstrom]

I'll bite. Because you're doing it wrong. Ford doesn't set the 150lb/ft spec, that is determined by the diameter of our wheel studs.

150ft/lb is the only correct number for the stock studs. Anything else is wrong.

Actually, the manual for my 2020 GT PP2 states 150 plus/minus 15, so anywhere from 135 to 165 meets spec. I would have to double check, but I am 98% sure that is what is listed.

I have Apex EC-7's, ARP studs and 1" spacers in front along with Gorilla lugs (and one McGard lock nut.) I torque everything to 150. I would never buy a set of wheels that would recommend less.

Doug

 

[Silver Bullitt]

Actually, the manual for my 2020 GT PP2 states 150 plus/minus 15, so anywhere from 135 to 165 meets spec. I would have to double check, but I am 98% sure that is what is listed.

I’d be interested to see that in print. The manual for my 2018 PP2 is pretty clear.

 

[D Bergstrom]

I’d be interested to see that in print. The manual for my 2018 PP2 is pretty clear.

Well I was wrong about it being in the owners manual, but I knew I saw it somewhere. It’s in the performance pack level 2 supplement, page 10:

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...k-2-Supplement-version-1_su_EN-US_07_2019.pdf

Guess technically it only applies to PP2 cars, but studs are the same, so not sure why.

Doug

 

[David Schmidt]

Well I was wrong about it being in the owners manual, but I knew I saw it somewhere. It’s in the performance pack level 2 supplement, page 10:

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...k-2-Supplement-version-1_su_EN-US_07_2019.pdf

Guess technically it only applies to PP2 cars, but studs are the same, so not sure why.

Doug

Interesting that they explicitly talk about the difference between rear and front rims, a subject of a recent thread about mysterious rubbing noises up front and how to identify rims based on Schrader valve locations:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/wheel-rubs-on-strut-after-hitting-curb.212533/#post-4231643

 

[CrazyHippie]

What's wheels are those ? Very nice sir !

Very interesting front brake caliper covers! I have exactly the same, complete with the running pony and the Mustang lettering. That lettering was something that I added to mine after I bought the plain covers, so I'm surprised to see someone else with the same idea! Awesome!

Edit: Upon closer examination your calipers don't look like they're covered, but the lettering is the same as what I did on my covers. Cool coincidence, I guess.

 

[Silver Bullitt]

Well I was wrong about it being in the owners manual, but I knew I saw it somewhere. It’s in the performance pack level 2 supplement, page 10:

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...k-2-Supplement-version-1_su_EN-US_07_2019.pdf

Guess technically it only applies to PP2 cars, but studs are the same, so not sure why.

Doug

Thanks for sharing. I have never seen that supplement before. I never received that with my car. I noticed it said for vehicles built after 7/15/2019. Mine was one of the very first PP2’s built. The PP2 was not available until late in the model 2018 run. Most people don’t know that cloth Recaros were actually a free ($0) option on the first PP2 models built. It’s really weird the way this transpired. It changed from a $0 option to a $1,595 option almost immediately like it was an error in Ford’s ordering system. But, I have literature and a window sticker example showing them as “NO CHARGE”. This actually changed between the time I ordered my vehicle and the time it was built and delivered. My window sticker actually shows the Recaros as a $1,595 option, but the price I negotiated was based upon them being a $0 option. My dealer is a stand up dealer and honored the original agreed upon price, but I was shown the manufacturer charge (at cost) included on the dealer’s invoice for my car. I know they were appealing it to Ford but never followed up with them to see if Ford honored it or not. (Sorry for the poor quality of the window sticker pics.)

 

[stannypack]

Speaking of lug nuts these titanium ones caught my eye https://www.tikore.com/hardware/tikore-tk40-open-ended-lug-nuts

As much as I love burning money though don't think I can justify $360 on some nuts They sure look sick though

Might upgrade my current lug nuts to these https://www.vmsracing.com/products/...gLS3HsaBk9xPz8Io5kVfP26EU2_5Z8TD9K8uR20&gQT=1

 

[Trolly1]

Received the Gorilla kit. For the price, I was surprised the lugs were shipped loose to beat and bang around. I guess they’ll get marred up soon enough anyway.

 

[Grimmer]

Are Gorilla lug nuts impact wrench safe? I just put my jacking rails on and I was planning to get a mid-torque impact wrench to aid with a tire rotation and getting the lug nuts swapped out.

My OEM lugs worked fine until I started using an impact gun to remove them. The impact twists the outer shell on the inner nut so they get tight in the socket. The first go around at least 2 of them failed, replaced them with the Gorrilla solid black ones. Then no worries after years of impact gun use (remove only). As others have mentioned, for reinstalling I will get them started by hand and then run them on with the gun on its lowest setting until that first pop, then crisscross pattern all five, lower the car and use the torque wrench to 150 ft-lbs. Full crisscross pattern + re-check the first 1 or 2 since sometimes (usually) the taper on the other lugs will pull the wheel into a more centered position and reseat/recenter the first couple a little bit causing them to loosen up a tiny bit.

+1 for using a Teflon-sheathed socket to avoid marring the wheel.

 

[Kabayo]

Gorilla brand lugs seem to be popular with 350 owners. Our torque spec is 150 ft/lbs so more sturdy lug nuts aren’t a bad investment. Have no idea if that torque spec also applies to other trim levels. There are also a few running gorgeous titanium lugs that probably are crazy expensive.

I have the Gorilla ones on my 23 GT. Very good quality.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

OP Mustang nuts on ARP studs @ 120 ft-lbs. To clarify these are motorsport lubricated lug nuts and OP Mustang recommends the lower torque. I've tracked the car and upon retorquing they've never been loose or loosened up. If you use their studs as well they recommend 100 ft-lbs.

 

[Silver Bullitt]

Received the Gorilla kit. For the price, I was surprised the lugs were shipped loose to beat and bang around. I guess they’ll get marred up soon enough anyway.

Yes, I was a little surprised as well when I received mine for my last truck. They were just loose like that in a box. The McGard’s always came individually wrapped, which was what I was expecting. I guess maybe just consider that’s their break-in period.

 

[Trolly1]

Picked this up from HF - will hopefully turn the lug wrench that came with my scissor jack kit into a 1/2” torque wrench. It weighs nothing & fits in the bag storing the jack and accessories

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