Lowering spring install issue

[kz]

The traditional style compressors are a pain to use on our cars. The tip above should help you get it done.

If you have the time to find one, a clam shell compressor works much better. It makes spring swaps sooo much easier. I have this one. Worth every penny
https://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

Have you used it on Mustang springs ? Do the hooks have large enough diameter to hold the coils ?

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[Jjmoberg]

Why the hell has this not been discussed more (or ever, that I can recall), and why the hell did I not think of it?!?!??! Having changed a fair amount of sprigs myself, I cannot come up with a single reason why this wouldn't work. More importantly, I can't even think of a reason why it's not a great idea!

I mean, just for the sake of argument, is there an argument to be made why the other conventional way should be preferred or better?

I have done it on several makes and models years of cars from 2000-2017s. I cant think of any reason why it isnt better than all other types of auto parts store compressor. If i had a pneumatic/hydraulic shop compressor avaialble that holds the strut and equally compresses the spring at 3 points, i would use that i suppose. But i dont have access to that.

Its just way faster, easier, and almost surely safer. If you get lucky and unhooking the swaybar and tie rod lets it droop out enough, you dont even have to unbolt the strut from the knuckle. Though in some rusty situations its easier to unbolt the strut at the knuckle and remove it, cause i have had sway bar end links i couldnt remove without breaking them. Either way its 2 bolts on the sway bar/tie rod, or 2 bolts at the knuckle.

 

[galaxy]

Just personal preference, but going through it in my head, I'm thinking I'll just rip out the two bottom strut bolts right quick vs fighting with the other stuff. Still a great idea.

 

[WItoTX]

I have done it on several makes and models years of cars from 2000-2017s. I cant think of any reason why it isnt better than all other types of auto parts store compressor. If i had a pneumatic/hydraulic shop compressor avaialble that holds the strut and equally compresses the spring at 3 points, i would use that i suppose. But i dont have access to that.

Its just way faster, easier, and almost surely safer. If you get lucky and unhooking the swaybar and tie rod lets it droop out enough, you dont even have to unbolt the strut from the knuckle. Though in some rusty situations its easier to unbolt the strut at the knuckle and remove it, cause i have had sway bar end links i couldnt remove without breaking them. Either way its 2 bolts on the sway bar/tie rod, or 2 bolts at the knuckle.

It seems like it should work just fine. I will let others smarter than myself prove me wrong. The only issue with this route is if you have magneride, and forget to remove the travel sensor. Having had my suspension apart several times, It's pretty easy to overlook.

 

[Jjmoberg]

The good part is its safe when removing cause you can leave everything bolted up. So as you lower and take pressure off the spring it physically cant escape. Once the tension is off, youll be able to tell how much more droop you need to get the spring out. Sometimes you can get it wiggled out. Sometimes just the sway bar is enough. And undoing the strut almost always lets you drop it down onto the control arm and angle it enough the spring will come out

 

[Jjmoberg]

It seems like it should work just fine. I will let others smarter than myself prove me wrong. The only issue with this route is if you have magneride, and forget to remove the travel sensor. Having had my suspension apart several times, It's pretty easy to overlook.

Absolutely will have to do that on these cars. But thats an issue no matter what method is used.

 

[James1980]

Have you used it on Mustang springs ? Do the hooks have large enough diameter to hold the coils ?

I used it on my Steeda springs. So I can't say for sure they'll fit the OEM springs, but would think it would be fine

 

[EgoBoost]

I flip them too and use a wrench on the upside down one when it gets near the perch. A good impact makes the job go sooo fast.

 

[NZGUL]

I got tired of fighting with spring compressors years ago between me and all my friends lowering our cars, plus all the cars i have replaced struts on. When i change springs on a strut i leave the top mount attached to the car and just undo the center nut. I support the car with jack stands and put a jack under the control arm and let the jack down slow til the spring extends all the way. Slide the spring off the strut, or remove the strut if you are replacing the strut body. Swap the springs, use the jack to compress it as you guide the center shaft back up through the mount. Put the nut on, put everything back together, let the car down, tighten the center nut all the way. If you dont have to remove much more than the sway bar and tie rod to let the suspension droop enough, you can put 2 springs on your front struts in about an hour.

Same here, the jack works great, done 3 cars this way

 

[arigr]

eh poop...i guess i'm gettin old... i wiggled around under my 08 vert and re worked my suspension... bought the tools... jacked it up...cussed and bled a little... next week i'm headed down to pompano bch and lettin steeda do it while i'm in hardrock casino or swimmin at the beach...

 

[RAVAGE88]

No issues with mine at all; the fronts were actually a breeze. However, dropping one side at a time in the rear didn't release the springs, so I had to get a bit creative. I had the old clamps that affixed my camper top to my truck, so used them as compressors for the rear as my actual spring compressors were too gangly to fit in such a small space.

MB

 

[EgoBoost]

No issues with mine at all; the fronts were actually a breeze. However, dropping one side at a time in the rear didn't release the springs, so I had to get a bit creative. I had the old clamps that affixed my camper top to my truck, so used them as compressors for the rear as my actual spring compressors were too gangly to fit in such a small space.
MB

did you put the lug nuts on the end of the studs and step on them for clearance? A helping hand is a plus but I’ve done it alone several times before.

 

[RAVAGE88]

did you put the lug nuts on the end of the studs and step on them for clearance? A helping hand is a plus but I’ve done it alone several times before.

I didn't, as I don't like to add stress to components on the other side that I can't monitor to ensure I remain within yield limits. Too many stories about, "I installed XX parts and now I have this weird thing (squeaks, rattles, clunks) going on.

Ideally, I would drop both sides at the same time but not without a second set of eyes and hands, so with the car on stands, the camper top clamps was the most stress free process for me and the results have been stellar.

MB

 

[Gnatsum21]

eh poop...i guess i'm gettin old... i wiggled around under my 08 vert and re worked my suspension... bought the tools... jacked it up...cussed and bled a little... next week i'm headed down to pompano bch and lettin steeda do it while i'm in hardrock casino or swimmin at the beach...

Say hello to Rodney (Rod) from Lars! I live 15 mins away from Steeda.

 

[its_me_walt]

Side note

I can’t even begin to describe my amazement with the BMR lowering springs. I almost wish I did the struts and shocks too. The car rides 5x better than stock

How is that possible? Are springs different now from when I last did them 15 years ago? I remember lowering cars and then riding like dog shit but you just accepted it

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