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Looking at a Quick Jack and need advice

galaxy

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I use these in stock pinch welds (no jacking rails) and then put the QuickJack blocks right under these. I’m getting juuusssttt over an extra 1” of height compared to the rubber block right on the pinch/jacking rails. The pinch welds on this car are…robust…to say the least. Not saying jacking rails aren’t nice, just never personally saw that much use for them; especially if you have a QuickJack.

39BDF996-3796-4BB6-AABD-258B5CCB6B9A.jpeg
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Tonymustang302

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Mine wont lower im super pissed
 

DougS550

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I agree with the others. Leave the jacking rails alone. In the front use the low profile blocks from QJ, in the rear use the same low profile blocks plus a pinch rail puck like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Q7MV4CK/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_4?smid=A1T3G4FPJU85MJ&psc=1 (I do this instead of using the rails in the back because I prefer it for stability when I use QJ)
And which quick jack do make a difference as far as length and pad placement. I have the 7000lbs QJ.
 

fpa1974

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Yes indeed. I have the new 5000TL which gives me higher lifting height and covers all my cars/SUVs as far as the jackpoints go.

Regarding the above, 5000TL can use either rear of jacking rails or factory rear pinch weld. I prefer to use the pinch weld since it gives me more forward/backwards stability. For the front I use the jacking rails around the area of factory front pinch welds.
 

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bmrylnd5

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I use on pinch welds too - I left my jacking rails on in case I ever need to jack it up and don't have my qj's. For reference, I also have the 5000TL's.
 

1 old racer

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I have jacking rails on mine. But here is something I also do with my quick jack. I do not endorse this but it did work for me and allowed me to use my Q.J. on all my cars. I installed a 2x6 full length board and sub blocks under the 2x6's to keep them in place. This allowed me to let the car rest on the entire length of the pinch welds.
Please don't do this if you don't know what you are doing. And secure the boards by locking them into position with sub block and secure them to the QJ
 

Rapid Red

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Eighter way on or off, the blocks are fine the rails and blocks are also fine.
 

Rapid Red

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Mine wont lower im super pissed
The air charge in the cylinders, the purpose is only to close the jacks after the car is on the ground.

I will assume the car is not sitting in the air & just the jacks are stuck up

The quick disconnects & lines are keeping the ram pressurized. Need to release,bleed it off.

The way to do that is to open the system. Which will spill some HYD fluid, and the rail will come down.
I suggest that you remove the short line from the ram. Or the quick disconnect on the end of the line.

Screen Shot 2022-07-05 at 9.18.15 PM.png


No harm no foul, just reconnect and rebleed the system, done.

It's a Cheetos thing.
 

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Tonymustang302

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Yea i did that and created a mess….whats to say it wont happen again ?

thanks for the info
 

JimC

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I use these in stock pinch welds (no jacking rails) and then put the QuickJack blocks right under these. I’m getting juuusssttt over an extra 1” of height compared to the rubber block right on the pinch/jacking rails. The pinch welds on this car are…robust…to say the least. Not saying jacking rails aren’t nice, just never personally saw that much use for them; especially if you have a QuickJack.

39BDF996-3796-4BB6-AABD-258B5CCB6B9A.jpeg
Where did you get this?
 

LR170Shelby350R

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I'm really glad I came across this thread. I've also been looking at Quick Jack but I'm concerned about how complex it is to set-up and maintain. I don't have any experience with these units.

Also, have any of you used them to keep your 350's elevated during long storage periods (winter, etc.)?
 

shogun32

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Also, have any of you used them to keep your 350's elevated during long storage periods (winter, etc.)?
you can. the connectors are dry-break so once pressurized, it'll hold indefinitely without the head unit attached.
the NPT fittings on mine seem rather out of spec (lots of thread still showing despite tight) but that may be just sloppy dimensioning. Each unit is fairly heavy and dropping it on your foot is highly discouraged.

The connectors can be ornery if pressurized - I managed to sprain/dislocate my wrist once. instead of trying to join them by pressing hands together left-right, I pull straight back into my belly.
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