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Long story short I installed SPL LCAs and tension arms and one of the mounting studs snapped on the passenger side when I sat in the car a couple of days later. The car is in my garage and the driver's side is against the wall (about 1.5 feet from the drywall). I am going to switch back to stock...

Anyone ever lift their car up using the Quickjack 5000slx positioned in a transverse manner (sideways). I think the Quickjack is just long enough to reach the pinch weld lift points. Apparently Quickjack says this is okay as long as the weight distribution is 50:50 or close to it. Apparently the...

I sent my stock arms to Cortex to have their bearings installed. When I get them back I'll attempt to remove the SPL arms and go back to stock. I am really worried about the drivers side studs snapping while I'm doing that. This has turned into a giant and needless fucking headache. I also...

Also how hard is it to replace the knuckles on this car? I regret everything about this damn SPL install including the need to drill a larger hole on the top of the taper to accommodate those brittle studs. So to go back to stock I would like to replace with new knuckles. Also, how difficult...

I guess I can deconstruct my house and build a museum up around my car instead....

So I received a new stud just so I can hook up the LCA and move the car away from the wall and get it up on my quickjack to switch back to stock. Does anyone want to take bets on whether the driver's side stud snaps when I lift the passenger side to swap out the broken stud? If that happens I...

Yep it is a mystery. Made all the more so because the stud doesn't snap immediately while torquing. The first time it happened while I was putting load on the knuckle by tightening my caliper nuts. The second time it happened when I sat in the car and tried to back up, but this was AFTER the car...

Yup I started reversing and after going about 6 inches I felt and heard a scraping noise. I got out and the passenger side wheel was turned inwards and up against the wheel well at the front. Luckily it straightened out when I pulled forward and I was able to get it back into position in the...

Yeah this time it really makes no sense even if the stud was defective from the supplier. I literally drove the car after install (long enough to determine my alignment was completely screwed up) and nothing broke. The car sat for 3 days and then the stud just sheared when I got in and started...

Okay thanks. I called Ford and they told me the parts were actually: FR3Z-3079-E (not C, even though the C variant is listed as being for the GT350 and other mustang models online, while the E model is just listed for GT350s) FR3Z-3079-H

Yep. I have zero faith in this set up. Last time it happened while torquing my calipers. This time it happened when I got in the car after sitting for a few days (and after I drove it in a loop around the neighbourhood a few times immediately after install). Next time it might happen when I'm...

Can anyone tell me what the OEM part numbers are for the driver's side control arms? I have found these: FR3Z-3079-C FR3Z-3079-H But they don't match with the part number stickers on my original arms: FR3V-3079-CD FR3V-3A424-BB

So I got into the car today to move it out of the garage to try and fix my toe issue. And the LCA mounting stud snapped AGAIN.....

Okay thank you. I'll do this tomorrow and report back. But I have a feeling the toe in is going to be pretty bad. I can see it just by eye. I'm wondering if making the LCAs longer than stock would pivot the back of the knuckle outward (because of where the LCA attaches relative to the pivot...

I think the most likely explanation is that my measurements are off between the OEM and the SPL arms. But what I can't understand is what combination of changes in LCA and tension arm length would lead to an increased toe in. Btw Precision Auto refused to work on my car and all the other...

So in theory I didn't use any of the spacers between the bearing and the knuckle which, according to the SPL instructions, is supposed to keep the roll center the same as OEM. But it is definitely possible that is just an approximation and that the roll center did change.

Okay thank you. Another question for the alignment experts here. I swapped out the LCAs and tension arms for the SPL variant. I tried to match the lengths of each to the OEM measurements. I did not touch the toe at all. However, after install I have a crazy amount of toe in. What could be...

Yeah I'll see what happens at this place. For those of you that do your own alignments which way do you turn the steering rod to increase toe out?

What DIY alignment equipment do you use? Also, after doing the SPL LCA and tension rod install I have way too much toe in on both sides. I tried to measure the length of the OEM components and match those measurements with the SPL arms but because they are different shapes it was virtually...

I've seen those DYI kits that they sell but I don't have a lift so I have no way to get under the car with all the wheels loaded. Conceivably I could raise it with my quick jack and then lower onto some race ramp blocks but seems like the precision would probably not be there.