Just ordered Antigravity Lithium Battery

[96cobra]

I was the person who suggested the 2 car test. Your understanding and acceptance of that suggestion is a good first step. However, if you are serious about proceeding, I recommend that In addition to providing the two beta testers with free batteries, you consider both trying to locate owners who are close by your shop and you offer to assume any expenses for damages to their cars if caused by your products.

I don’t doubt that lithium technology, when fully developed, is very desirable option. However, you, as the developer, producer, and marketer of these products have a responsibility to your customers. Many of us own other toys besides Shelby’s, and many of us are active in other enthusiast forums.

A good reputation is difficult to earn and all too easy to lose. Just how it is. May be worth your consideration....

Makes me wonder how these batteries were tested in GT3RS's... hey, take a free $400 battery and let us know if it fries your $190K car.

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[Tomster]

that was a cheap shot.

 

[Jimmy G]

Look, I haven't got a dog in this fight, but as someone with a little more than a passing knowledge of electronics and electrical systems....I'm with Scott on this one.

Generally, wiring harnesses are damaged by heat caused by excessive current flow. That current flow is determined by the resistance in the circuit and the voltage applied. With a fixed voltage (like one supplied by a battery) the only thing that will vary the current in a circuit is a change of the circuit resistance.....a short circuit will massively increase the current flow and the heat generated can and often will damage the harness. The short circuit can be caused by physical damage to the harness, or a failure of the component that the harness is supplying power to.

On a relatively new car, I would suspect the component.

 

[Mach4.6]

[MENTION=21800]Tomster[/MENTION]

If your looking for a Lithium battery that works, without any special chargers check out my post from earlier, Conedodger has been running/racing this battery for over a year

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2223553#post2223553

 

[Demonic]

Well this thread has started to go a bit sideways while I've watched. I've spent the past couple days spending more hours than I should researching everything about the charging system in these cars and the circuits controlling them. Ford appears to currently be using a pretty complex charging system on these cars in order to strive for ultra high efficiency, not only keeping the battery in an undercharged state, but also drawing from the battery instead of the alternator in certain conditions. I've ordered an OBD MX module and have been going over the Forscan info for the car's charging system. I've also talked to Scott about testing a couple of the batteries on my own car while monitoring things through Forscan. It appears that the cars are running 'any' lithium battery at a constantly decreased rate of charge. It looks like whether this works in a given person's car is based both on the conditions their car has been running under, and whether those conditions happen to trigger a given battery's internal protections. I am aware that people have run the VoltPhreaks batteries without issues, but based on what I've come across, the battery is still running below actual intended charge levels. I'm now trying to figure out if I can use Forscan to adjust the BCM's (the module that controls battery charge) intended charge level instead of us just running various different lithium batteries in sub-optimal states. I'll post more once I have more solid info.

 

[EF300]

I applaud your dedication. I do not have the patience to deal with that crap. Give me a regular ole battery please.

 

[Shift]

I applaud your dedication. I do not have the patience to deal with that crap. Give me a regular ole battery please.

Hey, if someone doesn't mind putting in all that work and taking the risk, kudos to them. Same goes to everyone who's modding their motors and pushing/finding the limits.

I'm with you though, it's not worth the trouble for me.

 

[ben@fatfab]

Well this thread has started to go a bit sideways while I've watched. I've spent the past couple days spending more hours than I should researching everything about the charging system in these cars and the circuits controlling them. Ford appears to currently be using a pretty complex charging system on these cars in order to strive for ultra high efficiency, not only keeping the battery in an undercharged state, but also drawing from the battery instead of the alternator in certain conditions. I've ordered an OBD MX module and have been going over the Forscan info for the car's charging system. I've also talked to Scott about testing a couple of the batteries on my own car while monitoring things through Forscan. It appears that the cars are running 'any' lithium battery at a constantly decreased rate of charge. It looks like whether this works in a given person's car is based both on the conditions their car has been running under, and whether those conditions happen to trigger a given battery's internal protections. I am aware that people have run the VoltPhreaks batteries without issues, but based on what I've come across, the battery is still running below actual intended charge levels. I'm now trying to figure out if I can use Forscan to adjust the BCM's (the module that controls battery charge) intended charge level instead of us just running various different lithium batteries in sub-optimal states. I'll post more once I have more solid info.

Im interested in these results. We are releasing a battery catch can combo that uses the ATX 20 and from the looks of things we will need to disable the smart charging system to make it work. I have one to test in my 2016 GT as well as the ForScan stuff. I am just starting to use it but Id be happy to share data back and forth. Let me know what you find out!

-Ben

 

[honeybadger]

@Demonic whats the latest?

Just discovered HB’s battery is a dead. Not super into the idea of replacing with another heavy battery.

 

[Demonic]

@Demonic whats the latest?

Just discovered HB’s battery is a dead. Not super into the idea of replacing with another heavy battery.

I've been running the non-restart ATX20 (model number YTX20 on the site) for a couple months now without issue. The ATX30 restart battery in it's current form though isn't compatible. I'm waiting to receive another testing version of the ATX30 from Scott to see how it works. But for now the ATX20 non-restart one runs fine. I've let the car sit for 2 weeks and it starts without issue. Whichever way you go though, either do a battery reset in Forscan or stop by a dealer that knows what they're doing to do it for you. It's a quick reset in the smart charging system that's supposed to be done by the dealer anytime a new battery is put in, but many neglect to. The reset has the car re-analyze the new battery, so that if it has different characteristics from your old battery the car doesn't think the new battery is a dying old battery and charge it differently.

 

[honeybadger]

I've been running the non-restart ATX20 (model number YTX20 on the site) for a couple months now without issue. The ATX30 restart battery in it's current form though isn't compatible. I'm waiting to receive another testing version of the ATX30 from Scott to see how it works. But for now the ATX20 non-restart one runs fine. I've let the car sit for 2 weeks and it starts without issue. Whichever way you go though, either do a battery reset in Forscan or stop by a dealer that knows what they're doing to do it for you. It's a quick reset in the smart charging system that's supposed to be done by the dealer anytime a new battery is put in, but many neglect to. The reset has the car re-analyze the new battery, so that if it has different characteristics from your old battery the car doesn't think the new battery is a dying old battery and charge it differently.

Thank you for the update. I appreciate it.

Are you familiar with one would want the re-start model vs. the ATX30?

 

[Demonic]

Thank you for the update. I appreciate it.

Are you familiar with one would want the re-start model vs. the ATX30?

Well it's not quite re-start vs ATX30 because right now the ATX30 is only available with re-start, which is why it won't work in a Mustang. The only re-start battery that currently works in the Mustang is the RS30 (verified by another member who's been running it, not myself). The ATX20 without re-start is the largest non re-start battery they currently have, and what I'm running. It weighs 6 pounds. https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/oem-size/atx20/

So you'll want to consider either the RS30 or ATX20 without restart. Scott mentioned to me progress on an ATX30 non restart and/or an RS30 in a form factor that more easily fits the Mustang battery tray. But sounds like you need a battery now. If you want to run an RS30 you'll have to remove the stock plastic battery tray and either make a mount or use the Antigravity mounting plate and bolt it in. For the ATX20 I'm using just two big zip ties to attach it to the plastic cleat in the bottom of the tray.

The re-start protection in the batteries other than the RS30 is too conservative in current form for the Mustang, and kicks in right after start up, effectively then disconnecting the battery from the car and making the car run off the alternator. The non-start batteries do however still have load balancing between the cells. Without the re-start feature it's just like any other lithium battery where you don't want to let it go completely dead since that will damage or toast it. Remember you'll also want to grab the lithium specific charger/tender.

 

[Sagittaria]

The re-start protection in the batteries other than the RS30 is too conservative in current form for the Mustang, and kicks in right after start up, effectively then disconnecting the battery from the car and making the car run off the alternator. The non-start batteries do however still have load balancing between the cells. Without the re-start feature it's just like any other lithium battery where you don't want to let it go completely dead since that will damage or toast it. Remember you'll also want to grab the lithium specific charger/tender.

I've been following this discussion for awhile. If you disable Smart Charging via Forscan this won't be a problem though correct?

 

[Demonic]

I've been following this discussion for awhile. If you disable Smart Charging via Forscan this won't be a problem though correct?

No even with the smart charging disabled in Forscan, the re-start batteries won't work (again except for the RS30 which looks to be fine though I personally haven't tested it). Their protection circuit is kicked in just from the car starting, regardless of whether smart charging is enabled.

 

[Sagittaria]

No even with the smart charging disabled in Forscan, the re-start batteries won't work (again except for the RS30 which looks to be fine though I personally haven't tested it). Their protection circuit is kicked in just from the car starting, regardless of whether smart charging is enabled.

Oh yikes I guess their website is inaccurate. Guess I will go with another option then.

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