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Just ordered Antigravity Lithium Battery

boardkat

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Thanks for the heads up. Interested in how boardkat didn't have those issues with the RS-30 he mentioned above. I suppose there's something GT350 specific or perhaps the re-start threshold was kicking in too early on the smaller capacity battery. I've sent another message to Scott.
I’m interested to hear what they say as well, especially since I voiced my concerns about this this up front before buying, to which they alleviated them by saying there wouldn’t be any issues. I’ve put 10k miles on the battery thus far, and haven’t experienced any problems - fingers crossed! The battery is also holding a charge for me without the use of a trickle, relying solely on the variable charging built into the car’s electrical system (GT has this too).
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cjgt350

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Thanks for the heads up. Interested in how boardkat didn't have those issues with the RS-30 he mentioned above. I suppose there's something GT350 specific or perhaps the re-start threshold was kicking in too early on the smaller capacity battery. I've sent another message to Scott.
The RS-30 is larger capacity battery (more cells)but I suspect the GT350 charging system is different but I have no specific insight. When I test drove the voltage was all over the place 15.7v one sec and 11v another. It seemed the regulator was hunting for proper voltage/amps. Battery was fully charged btw.
 
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xXANCHORMONXx

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I won’t give those guys another cent of my money.

After speaking with one of their “engineers” (a term loosely used now so it seems) they recommended the Same battery as CJGT350 had the atx-12hd.

This thing was a pile of garbage from day one. Out of the box I put it on a trickle charger overnight. Install went fine as well as the first drive. I stopped at the store and found my car to be dead on my return.

I hit the restart button and the car ran fine.

The following day I drove it for a few miles and the car died on me on the road in the middle of traffic. I had to push the damn thing into a parking lot.

It was 100% dead, windows wouldn’t roll down, no courtesy lights nothing.

I had a passerby offer a jump which did nothing.

At this point I call my wife to grab my oem battery.

About 30 minutes later just before she arrives the car has power again.

The next morning I’m hitting the track with the car with the atx battery. I should have just ran the oem but didn’t.

The car started to misfire and threw 10+ codes.

I thought it fried the pcm or something. It ended up melting one of the wires on the cam phaser sensor and made the car run like ass.

In the end I had to replace the entire engine harness and returned the battery.

These monkeys at antigravity took almost two weeks to inspect the battery and I had to follow up a good 5 times to get a refund which was only a partial.

Another “engineer” claimed I should have never ran the battery and that he would have never sold this battery to me.

My intention was to buy another one but after that last conversation with the last guy I spoke with I won’t even bother.
 

autobahnGT350

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I won’t give those guys another cent of my money.

After speaking with one of their “engineers” (a term loosely used now so it seems) they recommended the Same battery as CJGT350 had the atx-12hd.

This thing was a pile of garbage from day one. Out of the box I put it on a trickle charger overnight. Install went fine as well as the first drive. I stopped at the store and found my car to be dead on my return.

I hit the restart button and the car ran fine.

The following day I drove it for a few miles and the car died on me on the road in the middle of traffic. I had to push the damn thing into a parking lot.

It was 100% dead, windows wouldn’t roll down, no courtesy lights nothing.

I had a passerby offer a jump which did nothing.

At this point I call my wife to grab my oem battery.

About 30 minutes later just before she arrives the car has power again.

The next morning I’m hitting the track with the car with the atx battery. I should have just ran the oem but didn’t.

The car started to misfire and threw 10+ codes.

I thought it fried the pcm or something. It ended up melting one of the wires on the cam phaser sensor and made the car run like ass.

In the end I had to replace the entire engine harness and returned the battery.

These monkeys at antigravity took almost two weeks to inspect the battery and I had to follow up a good 5 times to get a refund which was only a partial.

Another “engineer” claimed I should have never ran the battery and that he would have never sold this battery to me.

My intention was to buy another one but after that last conversation with the last guy I spoke with I won’t even bother.
Damn, that’s a nightmare story. It always seems like when we do mods to a street car, , a little something is sacrificed for the benefit of the mod, some good, some bad. Sounds like this is too new for a GT350 for reliability purposes. Hopefully, the test bed crowd will find out if this is a viable street/strip product, or purely a dedicated track product, which seems to be somewhat unreliable at this point. Back to the testing chambers for this product.
 
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Demonic

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Wow, ok. It looks like the cam phaser on the GT350 is different from the 5.0 GT, so I’m wondering if that has anything to do with why Boardkat doesn’t have issues with the battery on his GT.

I’ve sent an email to them asking to hold off shipping the battery until we can determine if it’s truly compatible with the car or if these were issues specific to the ATX-12HD.
 

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autobahnGT350

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Wow, ok. It looks like the cam phaser on the GT350 is different from the 5.0 GT, so I’m wondering if that has anything to do with why Boardkat doesn’t have issues with the battery on his GT.
That sounds like a viable reason. Almost like in the IT world, a mass push within an organization to update or patch something, then you find out a BIOS or Fiirmware is not compatible. Today’s cars have so many sophisticated electrical components that it’s no wonder that we have anomalies when trying the same thing on different series of cars.
 

17RubyShelbyGT350

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Since my car is more of a driver, was ready to pull the trigger on a RS 30. Looks like pulling the trigger on this one might more likely result in one less usable foot. So for now, this mod goes back into the not ready for hard earned cash bin.

“You can always tell who the pioneers are...those are the folks with all
of the arrow holes in their backs.”
 

xXANCHORMONXx

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You all may have better luck than I did but after talking to my buddy who owns a Race shop he’s just keeps the oem batteries.

I should have taken a pic but he has a rack of ruined antigravity batteries, Braille, battery tender etc.

With a lithium battery you are consistently thinking about how many times you open a door or trunk etc.

Unless you keep it on a tender I wouldn’t Go lithium.
 

96cobra

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Last night I was totally in on buying one of these, but I think I'm going to wait for more information now. If this really does end up working out, I'd bet we could get a group buy together.
 

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wrh3

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The GT350 incorporates Ford Smart Charging to save .00000001 mpg and only charge the battery xx percent ;) And, as coded the PCM probably only works well with the parameters of a factory battery.

You can turn it off using ForScan and have a solid 14+ volts all the time instead of watching voltage tennis :D :

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/fors...tures-your-truck-348987/index106/#post4861945

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2223701&postcount=2429

726-04-01 xxx2 xxxx xxxx - battery management enabled
726-04-01 xxx0 xxxx xxxx - battery management disabled
 
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Demonic

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The GT350 incorporates Ford Smart Charging to save .00000001 mpg and only charge the battery xx percent ;) And, as coded the PCM probably only works well with the parameters of a factory battery.

You can turn it off using ForScan and have a solid 14+ volts all the time instead of watching voltage tennis :D :

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/fors...tures-your-truck-348987/index106/#post4861945

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2223701&postcount=2429

726-04-01 xxx2 xxxx xxxx - battery management enabled
726-04-01 xxx0 xxxx xxxx - battery management disabled
I think this may be our ticket. Would make sense as to why some of the issues occurred while the engine was running - if instead of the power constantly coming from the alternator, the combination of lithium BMS electronics along with the Ford Smart Charging was causing voltage transients to mess with the ECU.

Edit: Most detailed post I've seen regarding exactly how the smart charging system works. Looks like I've got some more reading and researching to do here...
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/can-smart-charge-disabled-385794/index4/#post5357800
 
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Antigravity Batteries

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after talking to my buddy who owns a Race shop he’s just keeps the oem batteries.

I should have taken a pic but he has a rack of ruined antigravity batteries, Braille, battery tender etc.

With a lithium battery you are consistently thinking about how many times you open a door or trunk etc.

Unless you keep it on a tender I wouldn’t Go lithium.
Hi all,

My name is Scott and the owner of Antigravity Batteries and one of the posters here brought my attention to this thread... So I wanted to come on here and answer any questions and give the straight facts about lithium and it Pros and potential Cons. And probably most important is just to educate you guys on Lithium, then also figure out what's going on in some of the cars that some of you have been having issues with. The reason that I quote the post above, is just to point out there is a serious lack of understanding in a broader perspective of Lithium and it applications and uses, and how to actually select the size you might want too. As well, I need information to educate myself in some of the issues some of you might be having with the newer charging systems.....

I will tell you, I will always speak to you factually. I will not try to oversell our products or push them on anyone. They are a newer technology, often misunderstood, and additionally they require a different maintenance practice than lead acid batteries. They do require a lithium dedicated charger if you're in a position to have to maintain or charge the battery using and off the shelf charger. So there are inherent differences when using a lithium battery versus a lead acid battery... So I'm here to assist with answering those questions, and giving you the straight answers that will help you decide if this is a product that you want to use in your application. It is actually very easy to run a Lithium battery in a car... but you have to understand certain things about your cars, it Parasitic draw, if you put aftermarket parts on it that create a higher parastic draw, or if you let you Lithium Battery over-discharge.

I saw a few angry negative posts.... like the one by XAnchormanX, saying the product is garbage, and his buddy owns a race shop and has a rack of ruined Lithium Batteries..... Being blunt that speaks more to the USER than the battery.... A lithium battery does not spontaneously fail nor is it a piece of garbage. Its rated at twice the "cycles" achieveable by Lead, so if maintained you generally going to get a much longer life cycle.. but within that you have a smaller battery you might have to maintain more often. Admittedly, it may not be the best for your applications if you cannot understand the maintenance that it works best in. The fact is the batteries perform flawless in tens of thousands of applications, and the other fact is they can also fail in certain circumstances which I will explain, and often due to user error of mainly OVER-DISCHARGING the battery, which could be an innocent mistake.. but none the less it damages the battery. But they absolutely do work and have worked in everything from daily drivers to world-class racing or we would not be here.

So I'm not here to try to sell you our product, I'm not here to tell you it's the best thing since sliced bread. I'm here to try to educate you so you can make the best decision. It is not perfect for all applications, and it certainly isn't perfect if you think you can just treat it like your lead acid battery and put a lead acid charger on it, or allow it to over-discharge below 10.5 V, and let it sit in overdischarge state. So after I explained to you the facts about lithium you will then be in a position to realize what causes a lithium battery to fail, and then know if that is in acceptable risk for you.

But there is another side of that story, we at Antigravity Batteries DON"T know every car perfectly. We have been in Mustangs for YEARS and companies have made mounts sprecifically for our battery... and I know that battery has worked fantastic for 95% more than it has failed for.... But most recently we have heard of it not working with the latest version of the Mustang.... so I'm a bit confused because I have only heard of this one one of a few of the Mustangs while other have worked fine.... so I don't know what is up. So I would love to have a open discussion with some of you.

So I will post up some Lithium facts in another post in a little bit, then those of you who can assist in some of the technical stuff can help me better understand any recent changes... because in theory the RE-START models should work fine in the Cars... so I have to find the years of those who say they had an issue. We developed the RE-START technology to prevent people from Damaging the Batteries because most damage was from over-discharging the battery, which damages any battery be it lead acid or lithium... So I'm trying to look into this to because this is a new problem for us, if it is even a problem, we have to figure out what's going on because we have not dealt with that before.
 

cjgt350

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Glad to see you on here. See my post above in regard to my issues which I explained in detail to Jason I believe it was who said he would share with you. No issues now going to the older style battery. I am using a CTEK LiFePO4 smart charger/maintainer. Is it ok for the battery to be on the tender when not in use or in other words full time?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EUF6UM8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Hi all,

My name is Scott and the owner of Antigravity Batteries and one of the posters here brought my attention to this thread... So I wanted to come on here and answer any questions and give the straight facts about lithium and it Pros and potential Cons. And probably most important is just to educate you guys on Lithium, then also figure out what's going on in some of the cars that some of you have been having issues with. The reason that I quote the post above, is just to point out there is a serious lack of understanding in a broader perspective of Lithium and it applications and uses, and how to actually select the size you might want too. As well, I need information to educate myself in some of the issues some of you might be having with the newer charging systems.....

I will tell you, I will always speak to you factually. I will not try to oversell our products or push them on anyone. They are a newer technology, often misunderstood, and additionally they require a different maintenance practice than lead acid batteries. They do require a lithium dedicated charger if you're in a position to have to maintain or charge the battery using and off the shelf charger. So there are inherent differences when using a lithium battery versus a lead acid battery... So I'm here to assist with answering those questions, and giving you the straight answers that will help you decide if this is a product that you want to use in your application. It is actually very easy to run a Lithium battery in a car... but you have to understand certain things about your cars, it Parasitic draw, if you put aftermarket parts on it that create a higher parastic draw, or if you let you Lithium Battery over-discharge.

I saw a few angry negative posts.... like the one by XAnchormanX, saying the product is garbage, and his buddy owns a race shop and has a rack of ruined Lithium Batteries..... Being blunt that speaks more to the USER than the battery.... A lithium battery does not spontaneously fail nor is it a piece of garbage. Its rated at twice the "cycles" achieveable by Lead, so if maintained you generally going to get a much longer life cycle.. but within that you have a smaller battery you might have to maintain more often. Admittedly, it may not be the best for your applications if you cannot understand the maintenance that it works best in. The fact is the batteries perform flawless in tens of thousands of applications, and the other fact is they can also fail in certain circumstances which I will explain, and often due to user error of mainly OVER-DISCHARGING the battery, which could be an innocent mistake.. but none the less it damages the battery. But they absolutely do work and have worked in everything from daily drivers to world-class racing or we would not be here.

So I'm not here to try to sell you our product, I'm not here to tell you it's the best thing since sliced bread. I'm here to try to educate you so you can make the best decision. It is not perfect for all applications, and it certainly isn't perfect if you think you can just treat it like your lead acid battery and put a lead acid charger on it, or allow it to over-discharge below 10.5 V, and let it sit in overdischarge state. So after I explained to you the facts about lithium you will then be in a position to realize what causes a lithium battery to fail, and then know if that is in acceptable risk for you.

But there is another side of that story, we at Antigravity Batteries DON"T know every car perfectly. We have been in Mustangs for YEARS and companies have made mounts sprecifically for our battery... and I know that battery has worked fantastic for 95% more than it has failed for.... But most recently we have heard of it not working with the latest version of the Mustang.... so I'm a bit confused because I have only heard of this one one of a few of the Mustangs while other have worked fine.... so I don't know what is up. So I would love to have a open discussion with some of you.

So I will post up some Lithium facts in another post in a little bit, then those of you who can assist in some of the technical stuff can help me better understand any recent changes... because in theory the RE-START models should work fine in the Cars... so I have to find the years of those who say they had an issue. We developed the RE-START technology to prevent people from Damaging the Batteries because most damage was from over-discharging the battery, which damages any battery be it lead acid or lithium... So I'm trying to look into this to because this is a new problem for us, if it is even a problem, we have to figure out what's going on because we have not dealt with that before.
Sounds like a man who wants to be heard rather than sell stuff... I’m listening.
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