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Interesting. Try smoke testing the supercharger. Im also leaning towards there being an issue with the bypass valve. In the vmp gen3r its a valve actuated by boost or vacuum that flips a bypass in the supercharger. If those lines are kinked, crushed, or the bypass is bad/ leaking it can creat...

Id say 24k for that car and build list is a deal honestly. Saves time and money provided the buyer already had the intention of going boosted. Regardless the available buyer pool shrinks significantly due to the supercharger. Personally every mustang I've bought already had boost on it as it...

Not saying cats are an issue if they are unclogged. I have cats on mine still, but a clogged cat can creat excessive back pressure reducing power output

Definitely smoke test it then and check the cats. Not really anyway to check backpressure on factory ecu without dedicated sensors.

Definitely something is up. I have a VMP Gen3r so dont know much about the Odins, but id venture to guess its something mechanical. It would seem boost isnt being built or its loosing the boost somewhere or a major restriction with the cats. Check if boost is being built, check for vacuum leaks...

Just dont get greedy with the boost, go e85 and youd be fine.

Oddly enough it was not the snout. It was actually a rod journal that developed a Crack and I blew up a crank sprocket. Caused some good knocking noises.but everything miraculously remained in time with no head/valve destruction. Id advise a crank support though with anything belt driven. A...

Well i built my motor due to cracking my crank from drag racing. I guess the point is in drag racing your going to brake before any damage from overheating. For HPDE the main concern is heat, and then dont rev it to the limiter and stay below 600ish hp and you should be golden.

While you are right that HPDE and drag racing are not the same in terms of stress on an engine. The HPDE NEEDS to address heat as that is the main killer in HPDE. Drag racing though you are pushing everything to its strength limits and pushing the boundaries of what an engine can take. Mine im...

You absolutely can do a roots style blower and beat on it at an HPDE event. Now granted i do not do HPDE events but i do drag race. I drive my car to the track 45min one way and then race it and my intake temps remain low. Then again i put a lot of time and effort into cooling. You can get an...

I have ID1700 injectors and triple walbro F90000285

Another option is to create an LLC that is in a non emissions area in OH, transfer the car to your LLC and you can avoid all the emissions testing then. Would have been cheaper to do that than spend another $500 on a tune.

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While yes E is good for that, i find the interchiller heavily combats heat soak especially on a car driven to the track, raced, the driven home. What pushed me to upgrade everything was i started at 100IAT and ended a run at 200IATS on a second run. Pulled loads of timing.

Still a heavy reduction in IATs. With that setup the only time i saw anything over 100 IATs was when i was drag racing specifically but i do have 1k+ whp and am spinning the VMP blower at its limits so i am generating more heat than most.

Lmao im in the same boat! Its amazing to have those lower temps and improved track time. In the 1/4 my temp only rises like 10-20 degrees.

Alternatively, get a trunk mounted ice tank and 1" lines with larger heat exchanger and water pump.

You actually dont sacrifice your a/c. It remains fully functional, and if yoy get the stage 2 kit it actually makes your a/c better with a second condenser and fan.

You could also go for an FI Interchiller kit and have your IATs at or below ambient at all times.