Whipple Kit Install Tips (GT350)

[JohnVallo]

The Whipple Intake (even without the Lid) is quite heavy. If you find yourself alone (without help) when it comes time to set it down on your engine you might try this.
I bought (2) M6 x 60mm phillips-head screws at home-depot. Ground down the heads, and made a couple of alignment pins for the front two threaded holes for the intake. After the intake is set into place over the pins, they are easily removed.

I also used a battery-carrier strap I had and configured a 'Handle' for the rear of the heavy Whipple Intake.
There isn't much room to hold the very back of the intake, when setting it in place, unless you want to smash your fingers.
I set the intake close to the engine on a piece of 1/8" backing board. Heavy Cardboard would also work, I'm sure. Standing with one foot on sway bar, and the other knee on cam cover, I easily placed the intake into position.

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[Inthehighdesert]

Nice.

 

[Jmeo]

First, let me say nice installation tip buddy. Second, you got a Whipple! Congratulations my friend, nice to see you still modding, and going FI is a game changer. You can not go wrong with a Whipple!

 

[CJJon]

Excellent idea. Whipple should include them in the kit! I often work alone and this is a good tip. I could also set up my engine hoist so I don't have to play Twister inside the engine bay.

That is if I am not too old and feeble to install it by the time mine arrives!

 

[JohnVallo]

Relocating the JLT 3.0 Passenger-Side Oil Separator.

I previously had a (Passenger-Side) JLT Oil Separator on my car. After the Whipple Gen 5 install it didn't fit so well.
I talked to JLT and they recommended I sell my old JLT and buy the new Remote Kit they have.

I ended up converting my own for less than $30.00.
Here is what I did:
1. Figured out the ideal location I wanted.
2. Fabricated my own bracket, and made new connection hoses.

In my case I needed a 45 degree quick-connect fitting for the Cam Cover, and a Straight quick-connect fitting for the Whipple SC.
Rather than buy new 5/8" quick-connect fittings, I realized I already had these from my OEM PCV hose I took off when I put the JLT on originally.

These are easily removed from the plastic/nylon line with a razor-blade, and can be re-used.

This is the relocation bracket I fabricated, and, (I just cut the JLT plastic/nylon lines off just past the end of the JLT fittings). The reason I left the Nylon on the nipple is because the JLT fittings are a tiny bit smaller than the Ford quick-connect fittings, and this would make it more even to connect the 5/8" Fuel/PVC rubber hose. (I purchased this 5/8" fuel/PVC hose at the auto parts store for $2.69 ft.)

Here are my parts to assemble & install, I also wanted to use the same black Nylon sheathing as Whipple uses. After my Whipple install I had some sheathing left-over from my heater hose modification. That with some 1 1/2" heat shrink tubing I was all set.
For the 5/8" hose to quick-connect fittings I also used the same method as Whipple uses. Gates makes these Thermoplastic hose clamps which are really trick. I used 4 of these - (gates pn: 32922), 32925 will also work as they both fit 15/16" OD hose)... to secure the 5/8" rubber hoses to the fittings. Also these heat-shrink clamps allow the addition of nylon sheathing to look much more professional after its installed.

Here is my Test-Fit before final assembly.

Here is finished product.

 

[JohnVallo]

After installing the Whipple Supercharger on your S550, realize that you have just added around 170 pounds to the front.
To compensate for this on my 2016 GT350 I replaced the front springs with the 2020 GT500 base front springs and ended up with a perfect front fender lip height of 27 5/8".

2020 Ford GT500 Front Spring Specs:
PN: KR3Z-5310-A
RATE: 251
FREE HEIGHT: 10 3/4"
WIRE DIAMETER: .615

 

[WhinRR]

Assuming car is running well so I have a question about the bypass actuator tubing.... this step says to zip tie rubber fitting to actuator but where did you zip tie? They included 4" zip ties with the line and fittings which isn't long to link around anything.

 

[bankyf]

Assuming car is running well so I have a question about the bypass actuator tubing.... this step says to zip tie rubber fitting to actuator but where did you zip tie? They included 4" zip ties with the line and fittings which isn't long to link around anything.

They want you to put the zip tie around the hose at the fittings, essentially using them like a hose clamp to prevent boost pressure from pushing the hose off.
In my opinion, the manual only continues to get more confusing from this point forward. Good luck. Got mine running yesterday, just need to tidy up a few things and put the rest of the car back together.

 

[JohnVallo]

Yes, bankyf is correct,
I took a close-up of mine at the bottom. The 4" thin zip-ties are to prevent the rubber hose from coming off of the actuator fittings, both ends of the rubber hose. This really needs to be done before setting the supercharger base down on the engine, as there is NO room or easy way to do it later.

 

[WhinRR]

thanks bankyf and JohnVallo! I did this last night before coming in for night but it just didn’t feel right. Lol. Now to get kid on and intercooler set up

 

[WD Pro]

I have used this style of clamp on small boost pipes :

Cable ties can get brittle and crack with age (especially with heat cycles). The stainless clamps might provide good peace of mind on something that can’t be checked or replaced easily

WD

 

[JohnVallo]

Something different I finally got designed & installed ...
-Fender Badge Vinyl Decal-
I used Chrome, Black and Brushed Vinyl

Got the Idea from here:
2019 Ford Mustang Shelby GT350 For Sale $74,950 - 2579436 (dupontregistry.com)

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