How does your dealer react to using Ceratec?

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

If ceratec works why not just use a 10W-40 when you change the oil? Ford may be able to detect ceratec if they no to look for it, but unless they send the used oil out to a lab they would never know you put in 10W-40.

If 5W-30 is good for quieting the tick, then 10W-40 should be better.

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[The Insomnimaniac]

My dealer doesn’t react at all…. What they don’t know won’t break their heart.

 

[Andy13186]

Crack the cap off slowly look them in the eye and pour it up their ass no homo

 

[AZ_Ryan]

If ceratec works why not just use a 10W-40 when you change the oil? Ford may be able to detect ceratec if they no to look for it, but unless they send the used oil out to a lab they would never know you put in 10W-40.

If 5W-30 is good for quieting the tick, then 10W-40 should be better.

Well, I'm not sure 5w-30 is all that helpful.

From what ive read, most people who have used Ceratec report the tick unusually immediately goes away as they pour in the bottle. I don't think it's because Ceratec is thicker.

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

I'm just speculating, but back when the 5.4 3v was in the F150's everyone complained about the cam phaser noise. A few owners tried using a heavier weight oil and the noise didn't go away, but was noticeably quieter.

 

[StangTime]

If ceratec works why not just use a 10W-40 when you change the oil? Ford may be able to detect ceratec if they no to look for it, but unless they send the used oil out to a lab they would never know you put in 10W-40.

If 5W-30 is good for quieting the tick, then 10W-40 should be better.

That's what I just used for my annual winterization oil change. Penzoil Platinum 10W-40 Euro. My car is driven only in the warmer months and our summers get quite hot, so the thicker oil is exactly what my car needs. Within the first few minutes of starting it after the oil change, the tick disappeared. Whether this is due to viscosity or the other additives in the oil I don't know. Hopefully it doesn't come back so I can stop buying Ceratec.

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

I think the consensus is that it is boron that removes the tick. The factory fill has elevated boron from what some have gotten back from oil analysis. Also, the ceretec has boron in it, which is why it works. It has been shown as little as 1/3 bottle will stop the tick, and I can personally vouch for that. That makes the milkshake oil much less of a problem and way less likely the dealer will notice. Lastly, I have read that pennzoil ultra platinum synthetic has elevated boron and some have tried it with good results. I have not personally tried that yet.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

I think the consensus is that it is boron that removes the tick. The factory fill has elevated boron from what some have gotten back from oil analysis. Also, the ceretec has boron in it, which is why it works. It has been shown as little as 1/3 bottle will stop the tick, and I can personally vouch for that. That makes the milkshake oil much less of a problem and way less likely the dealer will notice. Lastly, I have read that pennzoil ultra platinum synthetic has elevated boron and some have tried it with good results. I have not personally tried that yet.

Interesting. I've read a lot of threads and haven't heard of the Boron theory. Where did you hear that?

 

[SEAICE]

I use Ceratec, my oil does not look like a milkshake, at least with a casual observation. Regardless, its was said elsewhere, the dealer would have to prove the additive was the source of a failure. This will never happen with an individual dealer. I have faith that Ceratec, at the very least, will never be found to be the source of a failure.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

I use Ceratec, my oil does not look like a milkshake, at least with a casual observation. Regardless, its was said elsewhere, the dealer would have to prove the additive was the source of a failure. This will never happen with an individual dealer. I have faith that Ceratec, at the very least, will never be found to be the source of a failure.

Can I ask how much you are using, and if you tried a different oil first?

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

Interesting. I've read a lot of threads and haven't heard of the Boron theory. Where did you hear that?

It was on here actually, sometime in the last year I think. It’s probably next to impossible to find it amongst all the other threads and posts about the tick.

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

Here is a rabbit hole for you: Boron stuff

 

[AZ_Ryan]

I've seen that one.

 

[KeyLime]

This isn't meant to be another typewriter tick bitch session. Rather I'm just curious to get the consensus from people who use Ceratec and go to the dealer for regular service. Do you get push back from the dealer? Are they fine with it? Any warranty threats or issues ever come up in relation to Ceratec?


I ask because my '23 M1 has some tick, and I want to start using Ceratec. But I haven't had my first oil change yet. Im wondering if I should wait until my first dealer service to add it, or should I just skip the dealer all together...

Change your own oil or go to the local Cheapy Lube. Add all the additives you want.

if you have a warranty issue change out the oil before taking it to the dealership. It’s not like they are going to send an oil sample to the FBI crime lab.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

Change your own oil or go to the local Cheapy Lube. Add all the additives you want.

if you have a warranty issue change out the oil before taking it to the dealership. It’s not like they are going to send an oil sample to the FBI crime lab.

Fair point.

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