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Is this the "tick" everyone talks about?

Striker01

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I come from the LS7 world where every one of them sounds likes its about to fall apart. At idle, or at cruise speeds. At WOT; they sound like heaven.

Some things to note, ticks and other noise is expected and almost impossible to get away from. These are still large engines with 4 camshafts and 32 valves. If whisper quite is desired; a Toyota engine would be the best choice.

The other thing that has me wondering about something is oil. Someone above mentioned they had the said tick develop AFTER they flushed their factory filled out. There might be something here.

I wonder what the factory filled out is. I can tell you for certainty it is NOT the shit you buy at the dealership in a bottle ("motorcraft semi synthetic") Traditional break in oils (such as redline syn) have a large quantity of ZINC and PHOSPHOR to aid in piston rings settling in.

Someone here did an analasys of the factory filled out with Blackstone.

It wouldnt hurt to throw in some additional zinc or phos.

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thraizer

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When I bought my 2017 GT, I did the recommended engine break-in procedure (how I would normally drive) but instead of changing out the factory filled oil at 1K mi I changed it out at 5K mi with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic oil. That car never had the tick till the day I traded it for an explorer st. Not sure if leaving the factory fill oil in there longer helped to alleviate the tick issue, but I'm going to the same with my Mach 1 which is currently at 260 mi.
 

Striker01

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When I bought my 2017 GT, I did the recommended engine break-in procedure (how I would normally drive) but instead of changing out the factory filled oil at 1K mi I changed it out at 5K mi with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic oil. That car never had the tick till the day I traded it for an explorer st. Not sure if leaving the factory fill oil in there longer helped to alleviate the tick issue, but I'm going to the same with my Mach 1 which is currently at 260 mi.

This is similar to what i wrote, too.

The factory filled out may have additives that aid during break in of the rings and other components
 

MAGS1

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I believe someone mentioned in another tick thread that the factory fill contains Motorcraft XL17 additive. No idea if that’s actually the case. A quick google search comes up empty as far as any places actually having it in stock.
 

Striker01

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That is a trade secret that no one will actually know. A fella on here actually sent his FF to Blackstone for analasys.
 

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DrZed

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I did an oil analysis at my first oil change (factory fill) at 9400 kms.
Virgin Mobil1 has 71 Moly, and this factory fill had 144 used.
However, on BITOG there is a virgin Ford 5w30 Synth virgin analysis with 74 Moly...


Screenshot 2023-07-29 at 7.44.06 PM.jpg
 
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Striker01

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I did an oil analysis at my first oil change (factory fill) at 9400 kms.
Virgin Mobil1 has 71 Moly, and this factory fill had 144 used.
However, on BITOG there is a virgin Ford 5w30 Synth virgin analysis with 74 Moly...


Screenshot 2023-07-29 at 7.44.06 PM.jpg

Zinc and phos on the ff are meh.
 

jbresle

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My 2021 Mach 1 developed the ticking noise after my first oil change, which I did after one year (with only 500 miles on the car.) I used Mobil1 5W30. A friend of mine did his first oil change on his 2021 Mach 1 but he used Valvoline VR1 Racing oil, 10W30. He did not develop the tick noise. I then changed the oil again using the same VR1 Racing oil (also 10W30.) I also added one container (300ML) of Liqui Moly Oil Additive Cera Tec 3721. I added that after reading numerous posts on its ability to eliminate the tick noise. Coinsidering my friend did not use that and only used the VR1 oil I assume the oil really is what eliminated my noise. It's been another year since then so I will over the next few days be changing my oil with the VR1 oil but without the Liqui Moly. I will report back as to the tick noise and if it returns or not. You may be asking why we used 10W30 - well we do not drive our Mach 1's in temps lower than 40 F and thus 10W30 is perfectly fine. VR1 oil does not come in 5W30 (factory recommended viscosity) otherwise we probably would have used it if it did. Hope this helps!
 

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I believe someone mentioned in another tick thread that the factory fill contains Motorcraft XL17 additive. No idea if that’s actually the case. A quick google search comes up empty as far as any places actually having it in stock.
Yes I posted that which I was informed from my friend who was the lead engineer on the coyote platform. Every coyote engine comes with the XL-17 additive included in the oil from the factory. You can also no longer buy xl-17 as ford decided to keep it factory only :like:
 

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After many hours of researching this problem, I was the one who brought up XL-17. I found an MSDS on it, but got no where on actually obtaining some. I'm still of the opinion that they are indeed using additives at the factory, its a common industry practice.

The BITOG thread cited by Striker01 pushed me in that direction of XL-17 back in the day when I was looking into this.

I'm also an advocate of Ceratec, it cured the tick in my friends S197, night and day difference.

I changed my factory fill oil and had it analyzed. It had about 3,800 miles on it. The oil monitor said less than 5% of life left. This factory fill oil also had two track sessions on it after break in period which I observed to a religious extent. I would go out of my way to make sure it was brought up to temp during break in, absolutely no short hops or on and offs for the engine.

Here is the report with my PII removed. I refilled the car with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, I'm trying to keep the boron counts as high as I can.

This post is from
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/1st-oil-change.169641/page-3
#37



oil_analysis_modded-jpg.jpg
 

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Striker01

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I wanted to use Penzoil Ultra Platinum but i think Redline 5W30 may be the better choice IMO as it contains zinc and phosphor.

I've heard about ceratec but does anyone know whats actually in it?
 

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