FYI Battery replacement

[Elp_jc]

Hey gang, will change the stock battery on my 300+ mile Bullitt for an identical AGM (96R 590CCA 60Ah) next Tuesday (from Advanced Auto Parts). Yes, selling dealer would replace it for free if I wanted to, but don't want another lead acid. Car sat for many months at dealer, and even though it holds a charge fine, it discharges quickly, so it's probably sulfated beyond repair (I tried desulfating it with 2 different chargers to no avail). Anyway, FORScan doesn't have that battery on the menu; at least the one over the F-150 forum, which is the most extensive by far. That means I could only reset BMS, but leave the BCM 726-04-01 12xx xxxx xxxx as it is now, which is for 'FLA BXT-96R-590 60Ah). The only potential problem with an AGM could be a float charge of 14+V, like on a long trip, that could cook it. But so far, I haven't even seen 14V at all, except momentarily at start up (I keep my batteries fully charged), and 13s only on deceleration. Does anybody here see a problem leaving the battery setting stock? The only AGM option could be setting '03' (AGM 70Ah 600CCA H6).. atlhough my truck had an H6, but it was 760CCA (not 600), so not sure which parameter is actually programmed.

At any rate, is it better to have the right battery type, but with the wrong parameters (03), or vice versa (12)? THAT is the question . Thank you.

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[Grimmer]

I haven't been able to find the battery type FORscan info in any of the Mustang spreadsheets. Closest I got was a broken link to a spreadsheet for Explorers. It would be interesting to compare the battery type in my as-built to the actual battery that was in there before.

I haven't changed my battery type (until your post I had not heard that it was an option). I have been running the larger AGM for quite a while and haven't had any issues, but that doesn't mean it couldn't be better.

I'm also intrigued about the 96R AGM you found... Before they generally weren't available. Have you found a manufacturer that is making them now?

 

[Elp_jc]

Yeah, found TWO, actually. The one I'll buy is from Advanced Auto Parts, the AutoCraft Platinum AGM 96R, which has identical specs than stock: 590CCAs and 60Ah. It's $200, and weighs 31 lbs, so 2 less than stock. The other is an Odyssey 96R with 600CCAs, but costs $270, and weighs a whopping 42 lbs, so the decision was easy which one to get .

So far, I haven't found a suitable replacement FORScan setting, so will also leave mine alone. My car has code 12 on BCM 726-04-01 **xx xxxx xxxx, which is for a FLA 590CCA 60Ah 96R. You should have the same. There're 3 AGM options on the F-150 spreadsheet I have, which is the most comprehensive by far, and the only one to have the correct description for my code 12. They're for H6, H7, and H8 sizes, so if you have one of those, I'd probably change it. But since I'm going with the stock size, will probably leave it alone.

 

[Trptguy]

are there ever any warning signs of the battery going bad? Like tough to start, cranks too long?

 

[ponie1992]

are there ever any warning signs of the battery going bad? Like tough to start, cranks too long?

On mine, the starter was sluggish. I could tell it wasn't turning the engine as fast.

 

[Nagare]

are there ever any warning signs of the battery going bad? Like tough to start, cranks too long?

There weren't any for me. Car started up fine to leave work, stopped by my landlord's office to drop the check off, came back out less than a minute after shutting her off, and no dice at all.

 

[Johnnybee]

I replaced my OEM with an Energizer 96R AGM yesterday, purchased though Costco Canada. 590 CCA, 45 ah. I did the BMS reset I found in another thread here https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bms-reset-no-tools-required.151602/. Accessory power on, flash high beams 5x, the press brake pedal 3x, all within 10 seconds, if successful, battery light on gauge cluster will flash 3x (which it did). I also understand from that same thread that you don’t have to change the battery type in Forscan, the car learns it. I then did the routine in the manual. Start engine, allow to idle up to operating temp, idle another minute, then drive 16 km (10 miles). Everything seemed fine. I did fully charge the battery before installing. It has a sliding pull up handle which interferes slightly with the cover, I may just cut it off. Warranty is 5 years full replacement, then stepped prorated out to 100 months. The OEM battery had not failed but I have been checking it off and on and the last time it had dropped to barely over 12 volts. I had started checking it the past winter since it was barely moving, and then a lot of short hops, with the working from home regimen. The specific gravity was low, creeping into fair territory. I anticipate returning to the office shortly and just didn’t want to be stuck somewhere.

 

[1miracle2]

I learned there is a regulator you can disconnect. This has been pretty solid at leaving my volts at around 14.3-14.6 for the most part. It does drop to 13.6 but I have a ton of shit in my car drawing heavy voltage. One massive 5K watt amp and 2 smaller amps, 15" touchscreen, LED inside/out, methanol pump, airbags, stereo, LED steering wheel. See attached, disconnect that and see how your battery feels. I haven't had any issues since.

 

[jdm0926]

Update.

Off from work and got the dreaded clicking sound. Luckily I was in the employee parking lot. Called AAA for a jump and they tested the battery was only at 10 volts. Alternator was tested OK. Jump started fine and was offered a new battery installed for the same price I paid before and with a better warranty.

Thank you everyone for participating in this tread. Hope it helps you.

 

[TexasRebel]

Lost another one. It seems like ~3 years is the limit for these things.

Went to start my car last night and the radio and dash lamps went haywire. Fuel pump would randomly try to prime when I pressed the clutch. Start LED wouldn't come on. Vehicle wouldn't respond to the key fob. Trunk button wouldn't work. Had to manually lock the doors.

Jumping didn't help, and I didn't have time to let it sit and charge.

No warning again. Drove about a block from dinner to see a live band, and had to get a ride home.

 

[GTP]

My previous Stang also seemed to have the battery last just under 3 years.
I wish this car's battery would go out now, because my warranty ends in a month!

 

[TexasRebel]

Well there’s something else going on.

Battery tested “good”, but it was a little swollen so I replaced it anyway.

New battery is doing the same as the old one. Some other electrical gremlin. Starting a new thread about it.

 

[Firsttexan]

My previous Stang also seemed to have the battery last just under 3 years.
I wish this car's battery would go out now, because my warranty ends in a month!

They have learned to time them pretty good. Mine went dead at 3 yrs.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Wow, all these batteries lasting just 3 years?

Here I was thinking my prior Optima Red Top in my 94 Cobra had a short life when it finally crapped out after 15 years.... LMAO!

 

[Vlad Soare]

I wish this car's battery would go out now, because my warranty ends in a month!

Discharge it completely once or twice, letting it sit discharged for a couple of days each time, and it's guaranteed to be dead afterwards.

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