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Ford Performance Tune for 2018+ GT

ctandc72

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Okay so this showed up yesterday and I decided to install it this morning.

First off couldn't find the damn throttle body gasket (For the new adapter) anywhere. It was stuck to the bottom of the airbox. Not a promising start.

Everything came out okay. I totally took apart the new airbox. I installed the rubber connector on the air inlet in the bumper. I wasn't really thrilled how it connected - so I pulled the radiator cover and it let me see exactly how it needed to mount.

Throttle body and adapter was straightforward. I cut the clip / wire connectors for the MAF harness and pulled the harness back.

I mounted the lower airbox, seating it down on the air inlet, then I connected the intake hose on the throttle body. It seated just fine. But it wants to sit at an angle (where it mounted on the throttle body) when you try to seat the filter / housing into the lower airbox - the connector on the throttle body wants to come off at the top.

I tightened the clamp on the throttle body connection good - with the connector evenly seated on the throttle body and then installed the upper air box piece and started the bolts - kind of "guided / forced" the intake / filter assembly into place and slowly tightened down the bolts . The rubber elbow will give enough to get everything lined and it keeps the connector seated on the throttle body.

The foam piece "wants" to fit a certain way. It leaves a small gap. Instead of forcing that piece, I'm going to get a piece of weather stripping and seal the gap.

Got the Procal updated, stock tune downloaded to the device, then uploaded to the FP site. FP tune downloaded and programmed.

Went for a spin. Low to mid range throttle response is definitely improved. That's what I was looking for. Fourth gear going 53-54mph - tip in is MUCH better. No feeling I have to downshift. 63-64mph in Fifth is much better too.

Rev hang - which I didn't even realize I'd gotten so used to - is damn near gone.

It pulls harder in the low to mid range now. I don't care if I gained 2 HP at the top end - I picked up torque where I wanted it. My urge for 4.09 gears is muted a bit right now.
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spaz mk will

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Okay so this showed up yesterday and I decided to install it this morning.

First off couldn't find the damn throttle body gasket (For the new adapter) anywhere. It was stuck to the bottom of the airbox. Not a promising start.

Everything came out okay. I totally took apart the new airbox. I installed the rubber connector on the air inlet in the bumper. I wasn't really thrilled how it connected - so I pulled the radiator cover and it let me see exactly how it needed to mount.

Throttle body and adapter was straightforward. I cut the clip / wire connectors for the MAF harness and pulled the harness back.

I mounted the lower airbox, seating it down on the air inlet, then I connected the intake hose on the throttle body. It seated just fine. But it wants to sit at an angle (where it mounted on the throttle body) when you try to seat the filter / housing into the lower airbox - the connector on the throttle body wants to come off at the top.

I tightened the clamp on the throttle body connection good - with the connector evenly seated on the throttle body and then installed the upper air box piece and started the bolts - kind of "guided / forced" the intake / filter assembly into place and slowly tightened down the bolts . The rubber elbow will give enough to get everything lined and it keeps the connector seated on the throttle body.

The foam piece "wants" to fit a certain way. It leaves a small gap. Instead of forcing that piece, I'm going to get a piece of weather stripping and seal the gap.

Got the Procal updated, stock tune downloaded to the device, then uploaded to the FP site. FP tune downloaded and programmed.

Went for a spin. Low to mid range throttle response is definitely improved. That's what I was looking for. Fourth gear going 53-54mph - tip in is MUCH better. No feeling I have to downshift. 63-64mph in Fifth is much better too.

Rev hang - which I didn't even realize I'd gotten so used to - is damn near gone.

It pulls harder in the low to mid range now. I don't care if I gained 2 HP at the top end - I picked up torque where I wanted it. My urge for 4.09 gears is muted a bit right now.
If you aren’t happy with the throttle body connection, loosen and adjust after a few heat cycles; the intake hose will soften a bit. I wasn’t able to get it flush until I did this. Similarly I had issues with the inlet, it was much more pliable after a few cycles and I was able to get it sealed properly around the grille intake.
 

Mhanna5

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Would I be able to change the gears later with the procal? I’ve always used an SCT and was able to change them with that, just wasn’t sure if I could do it with the Ford device.
 

ctandc72

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Would I be able to change the gears later with the procal? I’ve always used an SCT and was able to change them with that, just wasn’t sure if I could do it with the Ford device.
Yup. Already confirmed with FP before I bought the tune - it can be set for 4.09 gears.

Put 60-70 miles on it today running around with the wife. 90+ outside, IATs never got bad unless I was dead stopped for more than a couple of minutes. Did the same with the stock (any) intake. It's SO much nicer on the interstate now. 6th gear, 74-75mph so much better. No need to downshift before getting on the pedal. The exhaust tone changed - it deepened a bit (I have an H pipe). Warm restart (hard to have a cold start when it's 90+ outside) seems quieter.

It's even better in stop and go traffic. Considering I don't plan on E85 (no real availability convenient to me) and I doubt I'll bother with long tubes on this one - I'd say it's not a horrible deal. To get rid of the rev hang, pick up some torque down low, I'm sure a reputable tuner could do that. Device + tune costs close to what this setup costs.
 

ctandc72

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If you aren’t happy with the throttle body connection, loosen and adjust after a few heat cycles; the intake hose will soften a bit. I wasn’t able to get it flush until I did this. Similarly I had issues with the inlet, it was much more pliable after a few cycles and I was able to get it sealed properly around the grille intake.
I got the grill intake seated good.

Seating and tightening the clamp on the throttle body allowed me to "persuade" the intake / filter assembly into place when installing the bolts connecting the upper air box to the lower.

I didn't really force anything. Still need to play around with my JLT catch can - I didn't like how it sat and I tried reversing the hoses as well. Thinking about putting the hoses back like they were and using my heat gun to form the hose near the throttle body so it clears better. I put the stock breather hose back on for now.
 

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green97probe

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What cylinder head temperature is everyone seeing on the Gauge Detail screen?

Mine is around 212F cruising.
 

AZ18yote

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What cylinder head temperature is everyone seeing on the Gauge Detail screen?

Mine is around 212F cruising.
Was 109 out today in Phoenix. CHT was around 188 running on flex e54ish. When running true e85 it can be under 180 in the same conditions.
 

Dfeeds

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What cylinder head temperature is everyone seeing on the Gauge Detail screen?

Mine is around 212F cruising.
Around mid 190s and occasionally low 200s. It only goes above 210 if I'm idle or behind an SUV that blocks a lot of the airflow. Was higher but removing the engine cover helped a lot.
 

EP10R80

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Would catted headers and an aftermarket intake void the warranty on a Ford Performance tune?
 

ctandc72

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Would catted headers and an aftermarket intake void the warranty on a Ford Performance tune?
?

The Ford Performance Tune is NOT designed for headers. You'd have to have your car tuned to have it run correctly with aftermarket long tube headers. Same with the the intake - the FP tune is designed to work with the components it comes with. Adding / replacing components would require a tune to work correctly, regardless of warranty.

If you plan on installing headers - I wouldn't even buy the FP tune / setup.
 

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green97probe

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Around mid 190s and occasionally low 200s. It only goes above 210 if I'm idle or behind an SUV that blocks a lot of the airflow. Was higher but removing the engine cover helped a lot.

Thanks.
 

ice445

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Around mid 190s and occasionally low 200s. It only goes above 210 if I'm idle or behind an SUV that blocks a lot of the airflow. Was higher but removing the engine cover helped a lot.
I too am noticing lower CHT after removing the engine cover. Seems it does a good job of trapping hot air over the heads.
 

T123456

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Just got this installed yesterday, finally. Wanted it done by a reputable mustang shop to keep the warranty (otherwise I would've invested my money differently). Had them do 1 run on the dyno before, and 2 after.

From a dyno perspective, I actually lost a few HP! 410HP on the run before install, 408HP on the 1st run after, and 407HP on the 2nd run after. Don't have the printouts on me, but the before/after dyno runs were more or less exactly on top of each other with very little variance. Only other modifications present were the Borla Switchfire, JLT Oil Separator (which does catch a good bit of oil throughout a month!), sound tube removal, running 93 before/after.

Now for the butt dyno, well worth the money! Biggest improvement I noticed is that prior, it seemed to lag in power in low RPM and normal cruising, but had a ton of power in normal cruising if i gave it a quick accel first and the engine was ready to play. Now, it always has that ton of power even starting out and normal cruising. Well worth the money to me to have it drive like a sports car, 100% of the time - and not void the warranty to do so.
In my opinion, this really should have been the factory tune for a GT though.

On a side note, cold starts aren't as crazy and exhaust is a slight bit deeper, hair bit louder in the car - and I already had the sound tube removed prior. Nothing crazy, just something to note.
 

AZ18yote

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Just got this installed yesterday, finally. Wanted it done by a reputable mustang shop to keep the warranty (otherwise I would've invested my money differently). Had them do 1 run on the dyno before, and 2 after.

From a dyno perspective, I actually lost a few HP! 410HP on the run before install, 408HP on the 1st run after, and 407HP on the 2nd run after. Don't have the printouts on me, but the before/after dyno runs were more or less exactly on top of each other with very little variance. Only other modifications present were the Borla Switchfire, JLT Oil Separator (which does catch a good bit of oil throughout a month!), sound tube removal, running 93 before/after.

Now for the butt dyno, well worth the money! Biggest improvement I noticed is that prior, it seemed to lag in power in low RPM and normal cruising, but had a ton of power in normal cruising if i gave it a quick accel first and the engine was ready to play. Now, it always has that ton of power even starting out and normal cruising. Well worth the money to me to have it drive like a sports car, 100% of the time - and not void the warranty to do so.
In my opinion, this really should have been the factory tune for a GT though.

On a side note, cold starts aren't as crazy and exhaust is a slight bit deeper, hair bit louder in the car - and I already had the sound tube removed prior. Nothing crazy, just something to note.
Doesn't void the warranty just like a custom tune doesn't void the warranty. A warranty work claim can be denied if said parts or tune are blamed for the issue. Then FP warranty pays instead. But for example, say you need work done on something like AC or door locks unrelated to said tune or parts, then doesn't matter if using FP or custom tune Ford warranty covers.
 

T123456

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Doesn't void the warranty just like a custom tune doesn't void the warranty. A warranty work claim can be denied if said parts or tune are blamed for the issue. Then FP warranty pays instead. But for example, say you need work done on something like AC or door locks unrelated to said tune or parts, then doesn't matter if using FP or custom tune Ford warranty covers.
Yes I understand how the warranty works. But when my transmission or engine or anything related has issues, I'll be much safer with my FP tune rather than a Lund tune.
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