First shot at changing oil

[PP0001]

You should tighten it with a torque wrench to 16-18 lbs. just like the supplement manual says to do!

Fairly simple oil change process and make sure to only use the Motorcraft oil filter "FL-2069-ST".

Its surprises me how small this oil filter is for a HP/high revving engine that requires 10 quarts of oil but obviously the Ford engineers have it figured out.

We just changed the oil on my buddies R model today and it all went pretty smooth.

Good luck!

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[Hack]

It seems like manufacturers are in competition to see whose car they can make more difficult to service. I just did the first oil change on my 2017 and I've changed my own oil all my life and I hate to ask this at 66 years of age - but is Ford really serious about a specific torque spec on the oil filter???:frusty: Or is this just some form of automotive snipe hunt.

What the heck do they figure you are going to torque it with? My 1/2 inch won't go in there. My 1/4 takes too many adaptors to get to fit a 3/4 inch 1/2 inch drive socket. Does a 3/8 inch torque wrench fit in there - or is Ford just telling us to forget tightening the thing like most oil filters and tighten the hell out of this one (which is pretty much what I did).

If they expected a specific torque figure on this thing they should have put a 1/2 square drive hole on the back of the filter wrench instead of that 3/4 inch bolt head.:rant:

I agree the Ford filter wrench is a shitty design. Speaking as an engineer, sometimes we have to pull our heads out and actually try to use the parts/tools rather than making something that looks good on the monitor but doesn't function in the real world. Half assed effort on Ford's part IMO.

 

[Tank]

How come this is the first time reading about this? Im new to the forum but not to changing oil and if the filter needs to be torqued then how come all the youtube videos including CJ pony parts say hand tight is normal?

I'm about to change the oil in my 15 for the first time this week.

Just getting this straight...you have a '15 GT350. One of 137 made in celebration of the original '65 GT350. These cars are highly desirable and go for six figures at auction. You haven't changed the oil in two years....

"How come this is your first time reading about this (torque on the oil filter)?" It's because you didn't read any materials related to your vehicle...You haven't laid eyes on the filter...


I could be wrong but I think you're trolling...apologies if you are not...

 

[ricardocabesa]

How come this is your first time reading about this? It's because your an f-ing moron.... New to the forum?? No excuse.

You have a '15... and your just changing your oil for the first time this week.... got to think you're trolling....

read your Supplement..

WTH is wrong with you? For several reasons.

 

[SVTinAR]

I agree the Ford filter wrench is a shitty design. Speaking as an engineer, sometimes we have to pull our heads out and actually try to use the parts/tools rather than making something that looks good on the monitor but doesn't function in the real world. Half assed effort on Ford's part IMO.

I agree.

I'm an engineer too and been changing my own oil since the 60s, rebuilt/restored a couple of old muscle cars including all body work and paint, most mechanical work, R&R and rebuilt a Torqueflite and Muncie transmissions just this year - never pay anyone to do anything I can do myself. So this isn't exactly a new rodeo for me.

Maybe I didn't articulate my rant to well in my original post but when I received this nice oil filter socket in a fancy box from Ford along with instructions to use it tighten the filter to 16-18 lbs-ft torque - I actually expected there was some way to do that with the nice pretty, cobra engraved filter socket.

I would be curious if a single owner can tell me they managed to change their filter with that Ford supplied filter socket and a torque wrench without removing the entire front belly pan? Anyone? And if so - how? I would really have appreciated it.

My new Amazon filter socket and a 3/8 inch torque wrench (never had a need for a 3/8 inch one before) are due too arrive tomorrow although I've tightened and torqued enough fasteners to feel it's on there pretty close to spec.

 

[Hack]

I agree.

I'm an engineer too and been changing my own oil since the 60s, rebuilt/restored a couple of old muscle cars including all body work and paint, most mechanical work, R&R and rebuilt a Torqueflite and Muncie transmissions just this year - never pay anyone to do anything I can do myself. So this isn't exactly a new rodeo for me.

Maybe I didn't articulate my rant to well in my original post but when I received this nice oil filter socket in a fancy box from Ford along with instructions to use it tighten the filter to 16-18 lbs-ft torque - I actually expected there was some way to do that with the nice pretty, cobra engraved filter socket.

I would be curious if a single owner can tell me they managed to change their filter with that Ford supplied filter socket and a torque wrench without removing the entire front belly pan? Anyone? And if so - how? I would really have appreciated it.

My new Amazon filter socket and a 3/8 inch torque wrench (never had a need for a 3/8 inch one before) are due too arrive tomorrow although I've tightened and torqued enough fasteners to feel it's on there pretty close to spec.

I've used a cheap NAPA filter wrench that is designed better than the Ford version - it has a 3/8 drive - to torque the new filters on. The NAPA wrench is stamped steel, though and it hasn't been strong enough to remove the previous filter.

I've used the Ford gift wrench to remove the filters, since that doesn't require torquing. If you do this, you'll notice another fun aspect of the Ford design. There's no opening in the wrench and it's a close fit to the filter, so when oil runs down the sides of the filter and into the small gaps between the filter and wrench - they essentially get glued together. I need to drill a hole or two in the wrench so that it's easier to pull the filter out of the wrench.

 

[Tank]

WTH is wrong with you? For several reasons.

Yeah, that was harsh....

 

[cking]

VERY HARSH GUYS....

 

[Tank]

VERY HARSH GUYS....

It's on me...post has been edited...

 

[GT_Dave]

Just getting this straight...you have a '15 GT350. One of 137 made in celebration of the original '65 GT350. These cars are highly desirable and go for six figures at auction. You haven't changed the oil in two years....

"How come this is your first time reading about this (torque on the oil filter)?" It's because you didn't read any materials related to your vehicle...You haven't laid eyes on the filter...


I could be wrong but I think you're trolling...apologies if you are not...

I think he has a 15 GT not a GT 350. There is nothing in his information that says otherwise.
You all need to read these posts more carefully, on both sides there is a lot of jumping on misinformation.
You would think Donald Trump was part of this forum, if we didn't know better.

 

[johnny1]

Here we go, politics not needed here

 

[PP0001]

Just getting this straight...you have a '15 GT350. One of 137 made in celebration of the original '65 GT350. These cars are highly desirable and go for six figures at auction. You haven't changed the oil in two years....

"How come this is your first time reading about this (torque on the oil filter)?" It's because you didn't read any materials related to your vehicle...You haven't laid eyes on the filter...


I could be wrong but I think you're trolling...apologies if you are not...

With all due respect I have a 2015 GT350 Track Pack car and I still have the original Motorcraft oil in the engine block and oil pan.

I start up "F0077" on a regular basis and back it out and run it around my neighborhood every couple of months but have not driven this car much hence the 35 miles on the car and choose to drive some of my other cars on nice days and weekends since I work long hours during the work week.

The battery on F0077 is always either disconnected or I have a battery tender on this car as it is important for me to retain the original OEM batteries on any of my cars.

I have a 2012 Boss 302 that was built in 2010 and am proud to say that the original OEM battery is still very strong based on this process after being in the car for 7 years now.

Based on pretty much ~50 years of experience with HP automobiles (mostly Fords but also some Mopars, Chevy's and BMW's) I would suggest that the oil in my 2015 GT350 is just fine with the oil really not having much of a chance of breaking down to this point.

Having said that I am taking "HR019" out after being in storage for 15 months and will change the oil on that car in short order once I get a few more miles on that great car.

Now that the cooler weather is here in the South I can't wait to get this base 920A car on the road!

:ford:

 

[Destro]

If you didn't receive the supplement with the oil filter socket, this one works (what I am using nowadays)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMOL8T8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All you need is a torque wrench and a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter....

Good luck

74mm and 14 flutes is what I had bought for my 4Runner:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0096A4DXU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$8.91 +free shipping

I knew that eventually I'd get some overlap in my filter wrench collection!

 

[PrISM]

No - it's not an R and it's a fairly early 17. Apparently it fell outside of the canister/disposable element models.

Is there a cutoff date for this? Mine was built 05/17.

 

[johnny1]

The early 17's like mine have the spin on filter. You can use a flashlight and if you look just right on drivers side down through engine if you have the canister filter you can see the end of it.

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