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Car appears sold. I'll wait until the exchange takes place to revise.

Price reduced to $45,000.

Additional info VIN: 1FA6P8JZ5H5521396 Series No: H1169

As I mentioned I bought the car slightly used. It's an early 2017 car and the data plate in the door is dated 08/2016. A copy of the original title I received indicates it was titled on 24 Sept 2016. So, from that I would say the original date of purchase was sometime in Sept 2016 and the...

I accidently listed in the Sponsors area so re-listing it here. 2017 Shelby GT350 – I don’t drive this car much since I fully retired last year and want to sell it to free up garage space. My wife and I are 69 years old and she doesn’t want a bunch of window shoppers or tire...

2017 Shelby GT350 – I don’t drive this car much since I fully retired last year and want to sell it to free up garage space. My wife and I are 69 years old and she doesn’t want a bunch of window shoppers or tire kickers coming around during the virus so I’m advertising this accordingly. Rather...

Seems like that is cheaper than what I paid about a year ago. I went back and looked. I paid $308 + $21 tax eighteen months ago and shipping was $39 (all figures rounded) from White Bear Lake Ford which was recommended by a number of members here.

The first owner of mine put 2600 miles on it and traded it for a "R" model. So sometimes there are understandable reasons.

I ran it through Carvana for grins and got a $39,600 offer and I have to drive it over to them near Memphis. So, that's not happening on both counts.

Interesting that many of you mentioned the Covid pandemic effect. My wife sort of threw a wrench into my plans and said she was not comfortable with my advertising the car for sale right now and having people drop in to look at it with all the Wuhan Red Death crap going on. But she did say -...

Planning to sell my 2017, 10,700 mile GT350 and having difficulty assigning a fair value for it. Some of the internet listings just seem insane - see following...

I would very lightly wipe it first with a sopping wet MF towel to loosen and remove any dirt and crap on it - don't rub it or work it hard. Then use a clean MF towel and a heavy application of your detailer to go over it again, but again not rubbing it hard. And then follow up with a third MF...

I have RaceDeck instead but I have a bunch of squares and rectangular sections of 1/8" brown HDF board cut to put under jacks and jack stands to prevent damage to the floor.

My 17 has the round black stickers too. I just noticed them yesterday coincidentally.

Wow, that thing is jacked up. Looks like a drag strip incident with the bell housing and clutch fractures - but not hearing any of that was the case. Glad they owned up to owing you a clutch in addition to the transmission.

No real purpose on the driver side on a properly functioning engine. Pass side keeps oil vapor from the ventilation system out of the intake tract. Oil doesn’t help fuel octane any but if it was a do or break issue Ford would have installed it originally. My 2 cents.

Maybe - not sure what it will take to keep one of these electronic, plastic fastener, gizmo-laden cars operating for 30, 40 or 50 years. I have a couple 60s era muscle cars and with a basic tool chest and a few shop tools/pieces of equipment - they can be kept running for as long as fuel is...

I got high 16 to 17 mpg driving city streets to and from work. Pretty conservative driving though.

OK - you mean negative camber then and you can’t get it closer to 1.1 deg neg. I misunderstood your post.

Do you really mean to say camber - or did you mean caster? These cars use negative camber and positive caster. Do you have an alignment printout you can post?