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Changing Pads at the Track

torque124

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I found fade on a track with a lot of elevation changes. Nothing bad, but a bit that required extending the braking zones. I think it depends on the track and driver.
What pads would you consider in that case for track. I suppose only fronts need change ? I might try that on my next event in June.
Thank you
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GT350Brakes.com

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I have tracked the car with stock pads... Never felt any brake fade. Maybe I haven't pushed that hard ?

Why would you consider track pads, other than OEM?
Thanks
I needed new pads. These should last longer making them overall cheaper then the stock. But that remains to be seen.
The oem pads seems to be a Ferodo DS2500 from what I have seen on my car. They are a very good pad but are not meant for dedicated track use. For cars over 3000lbs or so I don't reccomend the DS2500 as a track pad but only as a street pad.

The reasoning is the operating temperature and pad Mu. The pad Mu is low on the DS2500 meaning you need to make up for it with added pedal pressure.

http://www.gt350brakes.com/product/ferodo-ds2500-gt350-front-brake-pads

If you follow the link above there is a line graph that shows the Mu vs operating temperature and will see how much more Mu the Ferodo DSUNO gives you.

The beauty with sticking with Ferodo is that the base compounds are the same on all of their pads so you can switch from your oem pads to the DSUNO without any sanding or bedding.

I myself have the OEM DS2500 on the street and swap to a DSUNO front and DS1.11 at the track.

If anyone is interested in upgrading CLICK HERE

Be sure to use M6G at checkout for the forum discount.
 

GT350Brakes.com

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What pads would you consider in that case for track. I suppose only fronts need change ? I might try that on my next event in June.
Thank you
I'd reccomend the Ferodo DSUNO up front. From my testing the front pads wear 2-3 times faster than the rear. So upgrading the fronts are definetly worth your while.
 

GT_Dave

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Front pad changes

Just went out to the garage and answered my own question. There is metal bridge which connects both sides of the caliper across the top and it cannot be removed. I can't believe we have to remove the entire caliper to swap pads. Not a big deal but likely requires a big wrench and breaker bar.
For you newer guys, If you will be changing pads for track activity, I highly recommend installing studs for the caliper mounts. It doesn't sound like you have done that with your familiarity of the front calipers. Constantly removing the caliper bolts will eventually mess up the aluminum threads. Then you will be in a world of hurt.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66559&highlight=caliper+studs
 

torque124

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The oem pads seems to be a Ferodo DS2500 from what I have seen on my car. They are a very good pad but are not meant for dedicated track use. For cars over 3000lbs or so I don't reccomend the DS2500 as a track pad but only as a street pad.

The reasoning is the operating temperature and pad Mu. The pad Mu is low on the DS2500 meaning you need to make up for it with added pedal pressure.

http://www.gt350brakes.com/product/ferodo-ds2500-gt350-front-brake-pads

If you follow the link above there is a line graph that shows the Mu vs operating temperature and will see how much more Mu the Ferodo DSUNO gives you.

The beauty with sticking with Ferodo is that the base compounds are the same on all of their pads so you can switch from your oem pads to the DSUNO without any sanding or bedding.

I myself have the OEM DS2500 on the street and swap to a DSUNO front and DS1.11 at the track.

If anyone is interested in upgrading CLICK HERE

Be sure to use M6G at checkout for the forum discount.

"M6G is not a valid discount code" ...
 

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honeybadger

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What pads would you consider in that case for track. I suppose only fronts need change ? I might try that on my next event in June.
Thank you
I have not had a track day on them yet, but I am testing out the G-Loc R16 for front and R12 for back (will be testing them May 20-21 at the Ridge Motorsports). I went with a full swap since the R16s are fairly aggressive and you need a more aggressive pad for the rears to not upset the ABS system.
 

FogcitySF

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Anyone run the Pagid Yellows (RS29s) on this car? In other applications great for longevity of rotors and pads and can run on street (have to put up with noise, but noise goes away if do a mini-bed in type procedure).
 

ChevyNick

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Caliperfexion also sells a set of sleeves for their caliper studs that support the caliper and allow you to pull the caliper away from the knuckle and remove the rotor without having to handle the caliper assembly. They cost like $45, not listed on their website.
 

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Spacebird

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Caliperfexion also sells a set of sleeves for their caliper studs that support the caliper and allow you to pull the caliper away from the knuckle and remove the rotor without having to handle the caliper assembly. They cost like $45, not listed on their website.
I just ordered a set of studs and sleeves. Is there an easy place to hang the caliper while doing the stud install?
 

CSL

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I have bought a set of pads for track use.

I have the caliper studs installed.

Any tricks to install them quickly at the track?

How are people compressing the pistons? I normally use a C clamp on my other cars.

Do people use any brake grease? If so where?

Should I just install before the track and remove when I get home? The track is about 100 miles away.

Thanks in advance.
Contact Patti at caliperfexion.com to get a set of caliper stud extenders. Makes the swap a snap.
 
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mattlqx

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It will reach the floor unless you have the car really high
:eyebulge: please don't just let it hang or potentially hang. If the car is up enough to get my wheels off, the brake line doesn't have enough slack to make it to the ground in my experience. But really, not securing it to something is a bad policy.
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