First oil change

[DanielLD]

..don't forget to add "shaming people for changing oil when they want to on their $60k car" to your resume.

it's not shaming but rather pointing out in a nice manner, it's wasteful and does little to nothing. I don't look at price tags, I look at data. because most of the cars I test have $100,000+ engines.

Have you looked at the oil in these cars after the first oil change?? I'd guess not. - you asked that question, not me, so don't get all bent out of shape when the answer didn't suit you.

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[stanglife]

What are you even talking about? I'm not saying that the intervals should be very short and not suggesting that the oil requires changing based on regular wear. I clearly stated that there is a LOT of extra manufacturing debris in the initial oil and personally, I want it out. If you haven't looked at the factory oil when removed at 100 miles, then you maybe don't know - which is why I asked the question, which you didn't answer.

Get it?

 

[DanielLD]

What are you even talking about? I'm not saying that the intervals should be very short and not suggesting that the oil requires changing based on regular wear. I clearly stated that there is a LOT of extra manufacturing debris in the initial oil and personally, I want it out. If you haven't looked at the factory oil when removed at 100 miles, then you maybe don't know - which is why I asked the question, which you didn't answer.

Get it?

Oh I "get it". I've analyzed my own S550 engine during the break in period and at 500 miles revealed barely enough to warrant a change. I changed it out of a measure of removing wear particles but "Looking" at it is not the same as analyzing it. Your engine did not create enough debris at 100 to warrant a change and another one at 500. One at 500 would have been sufficient. You can personally want a lot of things, doesn't mean the science will back those opinions. Today's engines are not the engines of 2004.

 

[stanglife]

So... you didn't look at my oil or any GT350 oil...you know my engine didn't wear enough to warrant an oil change...and then you change your own oil at 500 miles basically saying the same thing I'm saying, removing wear particles. Sounds like great science there.

Tell you what, I'll stick to changing my oil when I want and you stick to telling your neighbors that they water their grass too often.

 

[likeaboss]

Motorcraft and Amsoil are good but not the best oil for this engine. Those specs make me cringe, specialized tests designed to get money out of the formulators. They mean little to nothing in performance or real life, other than money pits for the formulators to jump through stupid loops.

@OP, you would be fine draining at 500 and then 2500 and then resuming your normal interval.

What oil do you recommend and why?

 

[DanielLD]

So... you didn't look at my oil or any GT350 oil...you know my engine didn't wear enough to warrant an oil change...and then you change your own oil at 500 miles basically saying the same thing I'm saying, removing wear particles. Sounds like great science there.

Tell you what, I'll stick to changing my oil when I want and you stick to telling your neighbors that they water their grass too often.

I've looked at over 25-GT350 & 50-5.0L samples during the validation period.

At 500 miles there is a difference, maybe YOU don't get what I'm saying. I'm saying change your oil at 500 and then follow that by 2,500 and then follow an analysis guided interval. But 100, 500, and 1,000 is excessive and waste and you're not removing any additional wear particles that could possibly cause damage.

 

[Caballus]

Motorcraft and Amsoil are good but not the best oil for this engine. Those specs make me cringe, specialized tests designed to get money out of the formulators. They mean little to nothing in performance or real life, other than money pits for the formulators to jump through stupid loops.

@OP, you would be fine draining at 500 and then 2500 and then resuming your normal interval.

- What is the best oil for this engine?
- What specs should one go by?
- What are warranty implications if using an oil that don't meet the OEM specs, particularly given the engine's tendency to burn oil?

 

[DanielLD]

What oil do you recommend and why?

From what I saw, these are the oils that performed well in both the 5.0L and 5.2L in order.

Renewable Lubricants
Motul
Redline
Amsoil

The esters in these oils will "stick" to the internals providing superior wear protection. Renewable's oil has a VI of 220-240. Motul/Redline/Amsoil come in at 175-190. From the wear data we saw Renewable performed the best and provided the maximum amount of ring seal of all the oils, it is however not an extended drain interval oil.

Pennzoil and M1 and everyone else are in the 165-175 range for the VI, which is good. However there are additonal factors to take into effect. Taking only specs on paper is also a bad trait of many in the oil world. Taking real life field testing measures shows how one oil stacks up versus the other.

 

[stanglife]

I've looked at over 25-GT350 & 50-5.0L samples during the validation period.

At 500 miles there is a difference, maybe YOU don't get what I'm saying. I'm saying change your oil at 500 and then follow that by 2,500 and then follow an analysis guided interval. But 100, 500, and 1,000 is excessive and waste and you're not removing any additional wear particles that could possibly cause damage.

Simply. These engines don't use any special break in oil and it's well known that there is a lot of manufacturing junk in the original oil. If someone wants to change it at 100 miles on their expensive car, then so be it.

 

[DanielLD]

- What is the best oil for this engine?
- What specs should one go by?
- What are warranty implications if using an oil that don't meet the OEM specs, particularly given the engine's tendency to burn oil?

lol one's one self made specs from testing results! In all seriousness, Renewable after a decade on the market JUST meet this month the API spec. Yet they exceed most of the oils on the market.

I'd try either the Motul 300V or the Renewable Lubricants BioSyn 5W-40 Low Ash, make sure you get low ash if you have cats in this thing.

I'd get Ford's air/oil seperator on either 5.0 or 5.2L ASAP.

Honestly, if you have even one analysis you can prove the oil performed better than "OEM" spec. Ford's been great at messing with people in the oil side of things on their diesel side. It's not like your technicians can tell when you're running a superior oil then they provide these things from factory.

 

[DanielLD]

Simply. These engines don't use any special break in oil and it's well known that there is a lot of manufacturing junk in the original oil. If someone wants to change it at 100 miles on their expensive car, then so be it.

Jeff, I understand most of us here want to keep everything in the best shape. However if you really feel the need to change the oil that many times, do it at 100 and 1,500 and then go OE interval. But three times in 1,000 miles will do nothing but waste money that could have gone for a good beer! My point is some of y'all can save yourselves the head ache and money worrying about this engine.

 

[likeaboss]

From what I saw, these are the oils that performed well in both the 5.0L and 5.2L in order.

Renewable Lubricants
Motul
Redline
Amsoil

The esters in these oils will "stick" to the internals providing superior wear protection. Renewable's oil has a VI of 220-240. Motul/Redline/Amsoil come in at 175-190. From the wear data we saw Renewable performed the best and provided the maximum amount of ring seal of all the oils, it is however not an extended drain interval oil.

Pennzoil and M1 and everyone else are in the 165-175 range for the VI, which is good. However there are additonal factors to take into effect. Taking only specs on paper is also a bad trait of many in the oil world. Taking real life field testing measures shows how one oil stacks up versus the other.

I see your top two don't have a 5w50 so does a 5w40 work? I take it that if I want to throw some Castrol Edge 5w-50 into my car instead of Motorcraft it really shouldn't make a difference. I bring that up since Ford uses Castrol Edge at the Ford Performance Racing school.

 

[DanielLD]

I see your top two don't have a 5w50 so does a 5w40 work?

Yes for the Renewable lubricants.

If you have to stick to mainstream the Pennzoil PP or the M1EP do well. But Renewable's oil performs like no other.

 

[stanglife]

Jeff, I understand most of us here want to keep everything in the best shape. However if you really feel the need to change the oil that many times, do it at 100 and 1,500 and then go OE interval. But three times in 1,000 miles will do nothing but waste money that could have gone for a good beer! My point is some of y'all can save yourselves the head ache and money worrying about this engine.

My main argument was with your 100 mile objection. My second change was [MENTION=17112]10[/MENTION]00. Based on the fact that this isn't break in oil, an initial 100 mile change can do no harm at all and based on what comes out, I'd still argue that it's a benefit...also not scientific, I know.

 

[torque124]

Hey guys, the oil gets pumped in the engine through the oil filter. Don't sweat changing too early as whatever gets through the filter, gets through.
Bigger particles from metal wear from break-in will get stuck in the filter. No way you will "block" the filter from initial metal wear, but there are other chemical reactions that occur and it's better to flush that oil sooner.
But remember, no matter if you have debris from wear, it will only get stuck in filter, not circulated through the engine. So just follow the in-dash recommendation for oil changes, unless you track the car alot. If you do, change it BEFORE the track day, not after.
Best thing to do at oil change is cut your filter and see how it looks inside.

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