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DriedAir

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I have 2mfabrication headers at my house now gonna be installing them after work the next couple days. If you guys have any tips for these specific headers let me know I've done digging. My plan is to start on the passenger side as I've heard that side sucks
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ralph7

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When talking header installation, both sides suck. 🙄
 

eisenhauer01

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Good Luck!!!
 

RAVAGE88

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Good luck....however, I have 2M Fabrication headers and I'm replacing them with Kooks this weekend. Are you auto or manual?

MB
 
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K4fxd

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RAVAGE88

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Why the change?
Glad you asked....although the materials and workmanship of the 2Ms is on par with others, design execution is severely lacking. The distance between the collector and where the mid pipe connects is longer than others, so 2M placed the upstream O2 sensor further downstream and the bung is welded on the horizontal centerline, not at an angle like basically every other quality header maker.

The problem this presents for an auto is the O2 sensor interferes with the travel arc of the shift linkage. Plenty of clearance while in PARK, but anything beyond NEUTRAL and the heat shield on the linkage union hits the O2. If I relocate the bung at an angle above or below it's current position, it presents other interference issues. If I move the bung upstream, the only clear spot places the bung forward of the collector cone.

After I installed them, I attempted to deal with this by placing a 90 deg adapter in the bung, but, of course, it served as a spacer and the wideband sensors have to be in the flow of the exhaust gases, so this presented a fueling issue, rough idle, and stalling. I removed the adapters to test the theory and it was rock solid, but, the car had to stay in PARK. Comparing data logs with and without the adapter told the whole story.

Since speaking to the folks at 2M was a total waste of time and energy, I ordered Kooks on 14Dec and they were delivered on 27Dec. I'm dropping the K-Member on Saturday, removing the 2Ms and getting the Kooks in place.

When I brought this up to other 2M owners with auto trans, they had no idea they've been driving around with their shift linkage jammed against their O2 sensor. The best I can tell, the manual trans presents no issues at all. I get it that folks are attracted to the price of the 2M stuff, which isn't why I bought them, but it's confirmed once again that one gets what one pays for.

MB
 

RAVAGE88

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I'm a manual. Is that worse?
They should be better in a manual. Read my response to K4FXD above and let me know if you have any questions. I'll be happy to share pics, etc., of the process I used, and it kept to cuss words to basically zero.

MB
 
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RAVAGE88

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Buy once, cry once. Go with kooks unless you like to inflict self pain.
100% agree. I liked the idea of going with what appeared to be a squared away group, but ultimately, it didn't work out. It could've been different if they were approachable and/or actually supported their customer base. Instead, the comments made to me via email made it obvious they have zero respect/appreciation for the people that keep their lights on.

MB
 

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NightmareMoon

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You can remove the battery box pretty easily if that helps free up space on the passenger side. Just pull the battery and then theres a couple bolts.
 

RAVAGE88

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You can remove the battery box pretty easily if that helps free up space on the passenger side. Just pull the battery and then theres a couple bolts.
Yep, removing the battery box is a good way to go. I set up an engine support system, drop the K-Member, remove the starter and engine mounts, and the headers come out and go in very easily. One would be surprised how quickly this can be done. Makes life a lot easier.
Engine Suspension.jpg


MB
 

FoMoCo

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100% agree. I liked the idea of going with what appeared to be a squared away group, but ultimately, it didn't work out. It could've been different if they were approachable and/or actually supported their customer base. Instead, the comments made to me via email made it obvious they have zero respect/appreciation for the people that keep their lights on.

MB
I completely agree with you. I had the exact same experience. I ultimately removed them and purchased a different brand.
 

GregO

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2M Fab customer service mission statement;
Read our FAQ or pay extra and BTW Don’t call us, we’ll call you !
 

MuddyPaws

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Yep, removing the battery box is a good way to go. I set up an engine support system, drop the K-Member, remove the starter and engine mounts, and the headers come out and go in very easily. One would be surprised how quickly this can be done. Makes life a lot easier.
Engine Suspension.jpg


MB
Where did you get that nice engine brace?
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