Yes, they are, but that's a different kind of noise. It's rhythmical and blends naturally with the rest of the noises. When you hear it, you think "mmm... this engine's a bit noisy", and not "oh my God, this engine's broken".
I will heed your advice since I don’t want to take a chance damaging the engine. Gas is plenty cheap right now. Thanks.
^^^
. Or maybe some other kind of 'break-in' oil? You can PM me if you don't want this to turn into another oil thread . Thanks gang.
The factory fill is 5W20 Motorcraft Synthetic blend. Personally I'd wait until 3000 miles to change the oil. Any sparkly bits will get caught by the filter anyway so it's just a waste of money to change it any earlier than the "severe duty" schedule. 0W oils are usually better in the cold but give up a little bit when warm, there's rarely a free lunch. So unless you live in an area that sees subzero temps regularly in the winter I'd pass.I thought Mustang Coyotes weren't going to have these issues (like the F-150s), but seems like I didn't research enough. Ha ha. Oh well. Hope my car doesn't do that awful noise; so far (300 miles), it doesn't. Having said that, no way that noise hot is piston slap IMO. It sounded like a bad con-rod bearing, or even a bad main bearing; just awful. But guy who sent me the video said 'Ceratec' quieted the 'tick', so it can't be a bearing or that wouldn't happen, correct? Therefore, the only other logical cause IMO has to be the cam phasers (only on the intake on Coyotes), which are a constant issue on F-150 engines (both 3.5EB and 5.0s). If that's the case, you want the thinnest oil when cold to get to the phasers asap, and prevent wear due to lack of initial lubrication. Second, if you use an oil too thick at operating temperature, it could also affect proper lubrication when hot.
I'm thinking of changing oil for the first time at 1K miles, and switch to either PUP 0/20, or M1 0/30 (for quicker cold-start lubrication than 5/20 or 5/30). The M1 0/30 is a 'thin' 30 weight, so it'd be within 20 grade range most of its 5K-mile life (there's no PUP 0/30). And of course the stock FL500S oil filter, since it for sure has the correct relief valve pressure. Does my logic sound reasonable? As inferred, I'll change the oil every 5K after the first time. With that in mind, do you guys think my engine might be better off with PUP 0/20, PUP 5/20, or M1 0/30? I use M1 0/30 on all my other vehicles; I switched from 5/30 when it became available, since there's no drawback. I think PUP is a better oil than M1 for what I've read, but not entirely sure. I'm always open to change to better things, even if it's just for this car. What I don't get is why some engines don't have any tick when new, and then all of a sudden they do after an oil change; there must be using the wrong oil for the engine. No other explanation. But it makes no sense that a semi-synthetic oil is better than full synthetic, so it has to be the grade. Does Ford put 5/20 in there? I'm suspecting they don't, with 5/30 instead, but it's just a hunch
Indeed. And that's exactly why I'm thinking of going with M1 0/30
. Flowing better than 5W when engine is cold (at any temperature), and basically being at the higher end of the 20 weight range when hot, sounds like a win-win for the engine, no? I'd honestly be VERY hesitant to use any oil additives on this (or any other) modern engine. Manuals actually say not to do that, so hope I'm not forced to make that decision. Ha ha.
No. If Ford thought 0-whatever was best for our Coyotes they would have specked them that way, especially up North. Do what you want but unless your on the track or SC'ed go with the manufactures recommendations. There just isn't any reason not too.Indeed. And that's exactly why I'm thinking of going with M1 0/30
The '0-whatever' is a non-issue; ALL such oils are fully compatible and approved by all manufacturers (and yes, both 5/20 and 0/20 are approved on my Bullitt manual, page 309), since again, there's no drawback. They lubricate quicker when cold than 5W, even if it's 90-deg outside. Where there might be an issue is with 20 or 30. But again, like everything else, not all 20 grade oils or 30s are created equal. You have oils that are at the low, middle, or high end of that range. A high end (or 'thick') 20 weight is almost the same as a low end ('thin') 30. Another reason for 30 weight is fuel dilution, which would lower a 20 weight oil beyond acceptable, but not sure if it's a real problem on 5.0s or not (like it is on EBs).
Of course you can use 0- but look at Ford's recommendation, not approval.The '0-whatever' is a non-issue; ALL such oils are fully compatible and approved by all manufacturers (and yes, both 5/20 and 0/20 are approved on my Bullitt manual, page 309), since again, there's no drawback. They lubricate quicker when cold than 5W, even if it's 90-deg outside. Where there might be an issue is with 20 or 30. But again, like everything else, not all 20 grade oils or 30s are created equal. You have oils that are at the low, middle, or high end of that range. A high end (or 'thick') 20 weight is almost the same as a low end ('thin') 30. Another reason for 30 weight is fuel dilution, which would lower a 20 weight oil beyond acceptable, but not sure if it's a real problem on 5.0s or not (like it is on EBs).
Finally, this particular oil issue is not something I trust Ford with. Why? Simply because they're reportedly doing it to appease the EPA, since they certified our engine using 5/20 (for the highest possible MPG), and they need to recommend it, even if engineers preferred 5/30. In fact, many other countries recommend 5/30 (Australia, Japan, Taiwan, etc) on exactly our same engine; how do you explain that?
Kind of like gas, Ford approves of 87 but recommends 91/93.Yep. And not 'fascinating'; just smart
. Do you trust Ford with its 10K-mile oil change intervals? Do you trust Ford to use regular fuel in your Coyote? That's what they recommend. If you answered 'yes' to either or both (which I REALLY doubt), then I'd be more 'fascinated' than you. Ha ha. And it has nothing to do with trust; it's just the reality we live in, where lawyers and/or EPA have more say in many things (including those 3) than engineers; it's up to you to apply common sense, and decide what's best for your car. Oh, and in case you didn't know, ALL manufacturers are now moving to 0W/xx oils, since again, there is NO drawback: you have quicker lubrication on cold start-ups, which is when the great majority of engine wear happens. And equally protected at operating temperature. But if you just can't make sense of that, let's put it to rest, shall we? I WILL use 0W/xx oils, period (like I do on all my vehicles). And let's focus on the actually more 'controversial' aspect, which is 20 or 30 weight when hot ... because that's where the engine spends almost 100% of its life..
Yep. And not 'fascinating'; just smart
Finally, I wanted to touch base with the widely used 'CeraTec' additive. I DO NOT doubt the multiple testimonials that it works... but the better question is this: What the heck is it doing to the oil? Is it converting it to a 30W? 40? Or even 50? Has anybody done an analysis to see what the cST of the combination equates to in a regular synthetic oil? My main concern using that stuff is there would be ZERO doubt to a dealer that you put some unapproved crap in your engine. It looks like freaking latte. Ha ha. I think it absolutely has to be increasing the viscosity of the oil, since that's what quiets the engine. I'd be inclined to first try M1 0/40 (which is what Porsches use) than that additive...if my car eventually develops that ultra annoying (and embarrassing) tick. And if it didn't work with that, then maybe 0/30 with Ceratec, but I'd like to know first what it does to the engine oil as far as viscosity at operating temperature. Has anybody with Ceratec has done that? Please post. Thank you
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