Engine break-in Suggestions

[Deleted member 69311]

Getting my car back soon with a brand new engine.

What’s the procedure? Keep it simple for 500 miles, then oil change, then I can use all the RPMs?

What’s a good way of tracking engine miles with the new engine? Car has about 39k miles but engine is new. I’m thinking just using Trip A or B, but does it reset if the battery dies?

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[GrabberBargeCaptain]

My car already had 200 miles on it so i figured it had been beat on a bit. I didn't redline it a bunch but i did it now and then, other than that i was shifting gears a lot on my highway commute, varying loads, a lot of engine braking to seal those piston rings. Didn't stay at one gear for too long. Doesn't seem to use oil so i guess it broke in fine.

 

[Timbuck]

is your rebuild or new factory ford motor ?
yes. Just do a trip setting that’s what I did.

I just build a sleeved /forged motor for mine. The very worst thing you can do is baby it Or do highway miles.
Drive it.. The engine needs load to bed the rings in and that it. Nothing else Runs in so to speak.
my malhe pistons have a starting procedure i basically ran it for 15 mins with run in oil then dumped it. This gets all the crap out of the engine and also removes assembly lube.
Then ran new run in oil for 500 kms. I did this in open country and through the mountains. 2 to 5k rpms pulls 2nd and 3rd gear Letting it engine brake back down. Long drawn out 1/2 to 3/4 throttle pulls And roll back down ( this allows rings to push against cylinder walls) didn’t flog it , but didn’t baby it either. Also solid Pulls up hill to get maximum load And heat into the cylinders. rings are pretty much done at 150kms , you can tell as there is zero blow by from oil cap. Put a piece of paper on it and it doesnt move haha. Once 500kms done , swapped to synthetic and now I’m due for my first oil change at 5500kms

good luck.

 

[DougS550]

When I picked up my new GT I drove it on a 500 miles trip back to my home from the dealership. I vary the speed/excelorator up and down 1/2 throttle for first 150 miles, then 3/4 throttle up and down for 150 miles, then short burst WOT for the next 150, done. The break in on new engines is to properly seat the piston rings which is very important. For if the rings don't seat in properly you might possibly have higher than normal oil consumption and lower compression. But, if all else fails, follow the manufactures break in recomendations. Good Luck

 

[WildHorse]

Don't baby it.

 

[Zrussian13]

Getting my car back soon with a brand new engine.

What’s the procedure? Keep it simple for 500 miles, then oil change, then I can use all the RPMs?

What’s a good way of tracking engine miles with the new engine? Car has about 39k miles but engine is new. I’m thinking just using Trip A or B, but does it reset if the battery dies?

I would use the whole rpm range. I wouldn't beat on it but if you plan to drive it hard after break in I wouldn't baby it now. Plus keep the rpm varying.

 

[robvas]

Heat cycle it a few times and then send it

 

[WildHorse]

What rings to coyote engines use ? Stainless Steel ?

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Once the car is ready to drive, I'll drive it for about 50 miles or so. Bringing revs up to 4500 and engine brake down to 2k or so. I do that a bunch. Then same thing from 5500. Change the oil and put it to the wood.

 

[GregO]

@GrayS550

https://www.mullenixracingengines.com/how-to-break-in-your-engine

https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497749-br30-5w-30-conventional-break-in-oil.html

 

[S550HPP]

I always drive new cars hard off the lot and the engines love it they perform extremely well during the life. I change oil at 1000 miles with. Pennzoil Euro Synthetic 5W40.

 

[Skye]

Happy to read you're getting your car back.

This topic tends to bring a wide variation of feedback. Below is the path I took: what I considered as a progressive break-in, increasing the engine RPM and load with each drive in the first several uses.

Information below is from posts I've made previously.

Read the Owner's Manual regarding initial driving and break-in. There are general guidelines and references you can be aware of and follow.

Don't be surprised if, on the initial drive home from the dealer, you smell a burning smell or smells. Countless people have put the car together and checked it out. There's oil residue and handprints everywhere. These smells should only be present during the first drive, once getting up to full operating temperature.

Before attempting any break-in driving, spirited driving, something which will stress the components, always, always, always bring the engine up to full operating temperature. DO NOT perform ANY stress processes until things are up to temp (185F / 85C).

It is generally a good idea to avoid highway driving, continuous RPM driving, if possible, throughout break-in. If you will be driving the highway, do not use cruise control and vary the RPMs often. Consider taking an off ramp, then getting back on. Something which will vary the RPMs and loads.

DO NOT drive the car at all unless you are going to reach full operating temps. If it will be a short run, drive more than expected to bring the car up to temps. It's actually better to let the car sit versus a short, non-operating temp drive.

DO NOT "lug" the engine, driving the car in a high-load, low-RPM scenario. If you need to downshift, do so.

Something I've yet to do is shock the drivetrain. For example, I've yet to "stomp" on the throttle. I've yet to dump the clutch and launch. Any stressing I've done has always been from a rolling position, being already in motion and being aggressive, but not beating on, the throttle.

I'm a low mileage driver, with the car in Winter storage throughout the season. I'll be changing the oil once a year. The Owner's Manual will explain oil changes and the Oil Life Monitor.

Many perform their initial oil change at the 1000 mi / 1600 km mark. I've come to the belief I'm better off waiting. I feel the initial fill at the factory is not "regular" off-the-shelf oil, but a special fill, to help with break-in. There's also assembly lube. I'm at 34% on the oil life monitor. I'm going to wait another month or two, then change to full synthetic. (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, 5W30).

Regardless how you drive, the Oil Life Monitor counts down 1.92% each week. It will reach 0% at the one year mark, if not sooner, no matter how you drive.

My comments on the factory oil are my opinion, a belief. I have no proof. Many do and without issue change their oil at 1000 mi /1600 km and are just fine. As you'll see with oil viscosity debates, it's a personal thing.

At oil change, consider performing an engine oil analysis. I'll be using BlackStone. I want to perform an oil analysis because I'm curious, but also to document a baseline.

The 2022 manual lists the overall break-in of 1000 miles / 1600 km and offers advice and guidance. It also states oil consumption might not stabilize until 3000 mi / 4828 km.

At one extreme, people baby their cars. At the other, they drive it like they stole it the second they have the keys. You'll find at least one video on YouTube of someone on a dyno hitting the rev limiter, with like 12 miles on the car. You'll know you're on the limit when the dash lighting turns red. LOL.

I took the middle route, and performed what I considered at progressive break in. Each drive, within the first 100 mi / 160 km especially, I increased my highest shift point, to help ensure I was seating the piston rings.

First drive, I was just getting home. I think the highest I rev'd was 3000 - 3500. All I was interest in was getting the car home safe, get used to the car. Ten miles, or 16 clicks.

Second drive, I was consistently hitting 4000 RPM. Not every time I shifted, but I made a point to do that several times.

Third drive, 4500. Same methodology.

Fourth drive, getting to 100 mi / 160 km, I hit 5000 RPM, several times.

From the fourth drive until now, I always shift at least once, often several times, from 5000 to now 6000 rpm. I intend to continue do so.

I would also and continue to randomly park the car and shutdown the engine for a few minutes. The engine gets hotter by sitting still, before it cools off. I then take off and continue the drive, not stressing the car again until temps have returned to normal.

Throughout break-in, engine deceleration is as important as acceleration. I have two advantages, with a MT and hilly/mountainous terrain. I've gotten into the habit of accelerating to 5000 RPM in low gear, keeping it there for about one second, and then slowly backing off the accelerator before continuing. I'm decelerating the engine, letting the engine load slow the car. I'll do the same, at lower RPM, simply from driving around the local area.

Throughout the process and especially the first several drives, check for fluid leaks and the oil level. Oil is denser when cold, with the dipstick easier to read. Oil expands when hot. The dipstick will read different between cold and hot. I always did a quick walk around when returning, checking under hood and underneath. While I checked the engine oil each time, everything else was a visual without opening anything.

However checking oil, check in a consistent manner, always in the same place, hot or cold.

So far so good. I've had zero issues of any kind.

If you have an oil analysis performed, this is a thread with first-time oil change feedback, what to expect in the report.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/first-oil-change-and-analysis.132878/

I've used Blackstone several times; they're great.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

We often focus on the topics of load, piston rings, glazing and wear. The following article explains in detail what happens when glazing occurs.

https://www.auroragenerators.com/post/diesel-engine-glazing-carbon-buildup

 

[loucas-2021]

Being a new engine, why not just follow the break-in procedure Ford recommends? But I agree with others here who've said to not baby it. Just make sure you vary your speed and change gears, don't drive it for long periods of time at the same RPM, etc.

 

[Optimum Performance]

Getting my car back soon with a brand new engine.

What’s the procedure? Keep it simple for 500 miles, then oil change, then I can use all the RPMs?

What’s a good way of tracking engine miles with the new engine? Car has about 39k miles but engine is new. I’m thinking just using Trip A or B, but does it reset if the battery dies?

Drive it as hard as you would drive it. Engines require load to break in. Baby-ing the engine is the worst thing you can do. That said, don't bounce it off the limiter or run it hard for long periods of time. All oil consumption comes from lack of ring loading. Use it in all entire RPM band. Dump the oil after a few hundred miles.

 

[Hack]

I really try to avoid idling or low throttle cruise during break in. Significant throttle or no throttle as much as possible.

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