Hey folks,
Today I had a Cross-Traffic assist malfunction when starting the car. My start up routine is always the same. Start the car, put it in Sport+ mode, let it idle a few seconds and take off.
My car is a 2021 GT PP and has a relatively new battery. There were no other signs or...
Replace the key fob battery
Try the spare key fob
If still happening:
Disconnect battery (reset modules)
If still not fixed:
Check hood latch sensor
Scan for BCM/body codes
This might help if you haven't already done this.
Fix the belt alignment FIRST. Until the alternator is charging properly, nothing else matters.
Then:
Fix the PCV routing exactly per ESS diagram. The fact that the engine runs better with a vacuum leak means the PCV is wrong.
Then:
Reācap...
this whole situation does not smell like a transmission problem at all, and the dealershipās ābest guessā approach is a giant red flag. The pattern described is classic Coyote underāload misfire behavior, and none of the mechanics actually chased the data that matters.
1. A P0300 ONLY under...
I'd go with the Z06. I get the appeal of the SC, but the vette is going to be the better track car, IMO. Mid engine, dual clutch, dry sump, and to me they look great.
Given the rebuilt title, the most likely causes are:
1. A module that never sleeps
Especially APIM or BCM. Rebuilt cars often have mismatched modules.
2. A damaged harness
Even a single chafed wire can keep a module awake.
3. Aftermarket electronics
Remote starts, trackers, alarms ā all...
Not ignorant at all. You'd have to read the manual, as do I. I just got them for Xmas from my sister and I was scanning through the docs online and read the bit about being able to customize the level of noise canceling. I haven't tried that feature yet because the default setting is so good.
I need to get an alignment and don't want to take it to the dealer. Looking for a good Mustang mechanic that can take a look at my car. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help!
Few things could happen. You might lose performance achieved through the tuning, or it could cause the car to run poorly or even risk damage. CEL is likely, and then there are the warranty concerns. What kind of tune do you have?
Totally agree. Now, if you change the wheels for the default HP wheels and bring the price down $8k, it just like any other overpriced Dark Horse out there. Car should be around $68K.
You're right. Yes, I intend to accelerate WOT from a dig, so maybe the ESS G2 with 125mm pulley is the way to go for me. I'll have to get used to the power but like I said in the beginning, not interested on making more than 600 whp. Ideally somewhere in between 500 and 600.
Edit: what I said...
Thanks for the recommendation. I really don't want to make that much whp. If I went that route I would probably need to upgrade other parts of the car as well. I'm looking for something that will go on the car and done. Mine's a manual so mt82. I will definitely launch from a dig several times...
You're welcome. TBH I have no clue. I drive a normal GT so I have no point of comparison but I wish I had a Mach 1. Too bad they don't make them anymore.