Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[100mphclub]

Damn that's a lot of things to work through.

Yeah, I'm the guy that got burned by Edelbrock back in the day for "helping" test their tune issues with 3.55 geared cars shutting off at 120mph. When management changes happened, I was caught in the middle and my "reward" was a personal phone call yelling at me that they were revoking my warranty for going to a track. The company sent me MULTIPLE tunes to test a problem at 120mph and 127 mph. I could have easily sued them. I actually talked to a few attorneys about it... but the up front retainer and predicted expenses just to make them buy back the car was basically the same as buying another car. Plus I couldn't drive said car while going through litigation AND I had to keep making payments on it. Lebanon Ford stopped all sales with Edelbrock over this and other issues. They also helped me get a PBD tune to fix the car. I decided to actually drive the car again and forget about the warranty and do my best to never spend another dime on an Edelbrock product. (Another reason, I'll happily pay for your little tank design) Then I find out the transmission was completely burned up. Apparently the testing was harder on the car than I thought. But, I wouldn't have went back with a stock transmission build anyway. So, here I am. lol
Here's the old YouTube playlist: 2019 Mustang GT Edelbrock Supercharged by Lebanon Ford Performance

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[carguy231]

That aluminum tank was worth every penny to me. I had it powdercoated black for $35, chased the threads for the bolts as far as I could [they are shallow] and it has been perfect, with no leaks and that's on my daily here in SoCal.

 

[100mphclub]

That aluminum tank was worth every penny to me. I had it powdercoated black for $35, chased the threads for the bolts as far as I could [they are shallow] and it has been perfect, with no leaks and that's on my daily here in SoCal.

Good to hear. I may shoot mine with black paint, but I might not. Depends on how much time I have. lol I was looking at changing everything over to an ice tank, but the one I want goes where the battery is and I don't have time to do a relocation. Trying to keep it simple for now.

 

[100mphclub]

That aluminum tank was worth every penny to me. I had it powdercoated black for $35, chased the threads for the bolts as far as I could [they are shallow] and it has been perfect, with no leaks and that's on my daily here in SoCal.

How fun was it to burp the air bubbles out of the system? I've never drained it that far before. The instructions say the plastic bottle's lid will let the air out, when it works. I wasn't sure if the aluminum lid would be as easy.

 

[carguy231]

Pinched off the hoses with a pair of flat locking pliers put the tank in and topped it off. No issues with air bubbles or anything else. Now, I wish I had a ChillerKiller or one of those other AC cooled systems... But aside from the cost I don't want to take my GT500 nose off the car and risk damaging those clips on the sides... LOL

 

[brianbr]

How fun was it to burp the air bubbles out of the system? I've never drained it that far before. The instructions say the plastic bottle's lid will let the air out, when it works. I wasn't sure if the aluminum lid would be as easy.

Getting the air out of the system can be a pain. Pinch off pliers are needed to get it bled properly. Once it's done right you will know because iat's will stay around 7-10 degrees over ambient while cruising. When it was cooler out I have seen them get down to 5 degrees over.

 

[carguy231]

Dang. My IATs run almost 30 over ambient in hot weather... Maybe 20 over at other times. Max cylinder head temps stay around 212, never higher.

 

[illtal]

After a bit mine is 10 over after it sat for a while. It used to be 30 over.

 

[100mphclub]

I tried hose pinching pliers without the best results. The fluid was seeping so I was trying to hurry. I found out my screws were metric thread and the tank was made with standard threads. It immediately ruined the top threads and I didn't have a tap to try to fix them. I found a bolt that was a tad too long, so I used a shim to make it all work. For now, I just raised it up a hole and skipped trying to flip the bracket without taking the bumper off. So far, it feels super steady with the two hoses attached. If that doesn't work, I'll build a new way to mount it after the track day. I'm hoping the burping funnel was able to get most of the air pockets out of it. Time to drive and put some miles on the car.

 

[illtal]

I tried hose pinching pliers without the best results. The fluid was seeping so I was trying to hurry. I found out my screws were metric thread and the tank was made with standard threads. It immediately ruined the top threads and I didn't have a tap to try to fix them. I found a bolt that was a tad too long, so I used a shim to make it all work. For now, I just raised it up a hole and skipped trying to flip the bracket without taking the bumper off. So far, it feels super steady with the two hoses attached. If that doesn't work, I'll build a new way to mount it after the track day. I'm hoping the burping funnel was able to get most of the air pockets out of it. Time to drive and put some miles on the car.

Yea, I apologize about that I had a welder do these I'm guessing tapping holes ain't what he's good at. once you get it in there and running you should be able to forget it.

 

[mikengail]

Ok, I discovered something today especially peculiar with the Edelbrock 2650 Stage-1 kit on my 2018 A10 that I think some of you may be interested in reading. My car has always had problems with bucking and surging under part throttle acceleration, especially with moderate part throttle. WOT throttle has always been fine. Uphill cruise control was surging badly as well. Rob Shoemaker of Palm Beach Dyno and I went through 18 tune revisions without ever solving those problems. I finally gave up and just learned to live with it. Rob never did stop trying though. I'm the one who called it quits.

Well, I drove for over 45k miles like that and finally needed to change the serpentine belt for the blower. It was getting frayed. Recalling how hard it was to install the original belt that came with the kit, I did some research on belt size problems with the Eddys and decided to go for a larger diameter belt that was easier to install and had more play. It turns out, to my total surprise, that the overly tight supercharger belt was the real culprit with all of the driveability problems. I mean the belt that came with the kit was so small that I had to use a heavy-duty extra-large hose clamp to lift it over an idler pully to get it on. I'm surprised the hose clamp didn't fail. It was that tight. It was so tight that there was no give whatsoever, none. I could not force it to flex even with hand tools. It was that tight. Of course, the belt tensioner had zero play as well. It might as well have been another idler. Others with this same kit have had the same problems with respect to the original belt that came with their kits. Apparently, a certain amount of minimum play is required for the blower to function properly. Mine now has over ½ inch of play with just a finger push. Most people with that kit end up contacting Edelbrock tech support and they either send a slightly bigger diameter belt replacement or advise them to obtain a larger one locally. The stock belt included in my kit was 82" in diameter. 82.5" to 82.75" seems to work best. Mine is now 82.75". To my knowledge, nobody has ever connected the belt tightness with normal drivability problems for these kits. I happened on it totally by accident.

To double-check my theory, I downloaded the best rwhp tune that Rob developed early on in the tuning process. It was a tune that was made while dyno testing the car at Chris Groves' The Dyno Edge in Albuquerque. That tune made 691rwhp on 91 pump gas. I loaded it up today and it worked perfectly. No bucking or surging, period, in any driving circumstances. It's absolutely perfect. I can accelerate as slowly and as steadily as I want, just like stock.

So, sorry for all of the hassle, Rob. You did good from the very beginning, it appears. Edelbrock put a belt that was too small in their 2650 kits for the 2018+ models or, at least, in my case, they did. I don't think that even Edelbrock knows this. The next time that you all hear of someone with this kit that reports similar problems to mine, have them check the belt flex. There has to be some. I do hope this helps you all. I'm so relieved to have figured this out, even if it was by pure dumb luck. Lol...

 

[illtal]

Ok, I discovered something today especially peculiar with the Edelbrock 2650 Stage-1 kit on my 2018 A10 that I think some of you may be interested in reading. My car has always had problems with bucking and surging under part throttle acceleration, especially with moderate part throttle. WOT throttle has always been fine. Uphill cruise control was surging badly as well. Rob Shoemaker of Palm Beach Dyno and I went through 18 tune revisions without ever solving those problems. I finally gave up and just learned to live with it. Rob never did stop trying though. I'm the one who called it quits.

Well, I drove for over 45k miles like that and finally needed to change the serpentine belt for the blower. It was getting frayed. Recalling how hard it was to install the original belt that came with the kit, I did some research on belt size problems with the Eddys and decided to go for a larger diameter belt that was easier to install and had more play. It turns out, to my total surprise, that the overly tight supercharger belt was the real culprit with all of the driveability problems. I mean the belt that came with the kit was so small that I had to use a heavy-duty extra-large hose clamp to lift it over an idler pully to get it on. I'm surprised the hose clamp didn't fail. It was that tight. It was so tight that there was no give whatsoever, none. I could not force it to flex even with hand tools. It was that tight. Of course, the belt tensioner had zero play as well. It might as well have been another idler. Others with this same kit have had the same problems with respect to the original belt that came with their kits. Apparently, a certain amount of minimum play is required for the blower to function properly. Mine now has over ½ inch of play with just a finger push. Most people with that kit end up contacting Edelbrock tech support and they either send a slightly bigger diameter belt replacement or advise them to obtain a larger one locally. The stock belt included in my kit was 82" in diameter. 82.5" to 82.75" seems to work best. Mine is now 82.75". To my knowledge, nobody has ever connected the belt tightness with normal drivability problems for these kits. I happened on it totally by accident.

To double-check my theory, I downloaded the best rwhp tune that Rob developed early on in the tuning process. It was a tune that was made while dyno testing the car at Chris Groves' The Dyno Edge in Albuquerque. That tune made 691rwhp on 91 pump gas. I loaded it up today and it worked perfectly. No bucking or surging, period, in any driving circumstances. It's absolutely perfect. I can accelerate as slowly and as steadily as I want, just like stock.

So, sorry for all of the hassle, Rob. You did good from the very beginning, it appears. Edelbrock put a belt that was too small in their 2650 kits for the 2018+ models or, at least, in my case, they did. I don't think that even Edelbrock knows this. The next time that you all hear of someone with this kit that reports similar problems to mine, have them check the belt flex. There has to be some. I do hope this helps you all. I'm so relieved to have figured this out, even if it was by pure dumb luck. Lol...

Actually that was the first thing I did when installing because I couldn't get the 82" belt on at all. I bought a continental vbelt 82.75" initially , and since moved to a 82.52(?)" Gates RPM belt because of a marginally smaller pulley, No belt slip with either.

I can't believe you actually got that belt on there did it stretch a bit during all that mileage?

I'm surprised you didn't get a bearing failure. But is a good thing you tired a different belt, I'd not been happy with the bucking.

 

[mikengail]

Yeah, even though it was wearing out, I had to use a hose clamp again to get it off. So, if it stretched, it wasn't much. Crazy. And yes, my bearings have gotten a little noisy, not much though, just enough to notice. I'm keeping her, so when it gets to the point of having to replace the bearing, I'll have it ported as well. Oh, by the way, the tensioner broke during the belt removal. That's how bad it was. Good grief...

 

[Semp1]

Ok, I discovered something today especially peculiar with the Edelbrock 2650 Stage-1 kit on my 2018 A10 that I think some of you may be interested in reading. My car has always had problems with bucking and surging under part throttle acceleration, especially with moderate part throttle. WOT throttle has always been fine. Uphill cruise control was surging badly as well. Rob Shoemaker of Palm Beach Dyno and I went through 18 tune revisions without ever solving those problems. I finally gave up and just learned to live with it. Rob never did stop trying though. I'm the one who called it quits.

Well, I drove for over 45k miles like that and finally needed to change the serpentine belt for the blower. It was getting frayed. Recalling how hard it was to install the original belt that came with the kit, I did some research on belt size problems with the Eddys and decided to go for a larger diameter belt that was easier to install and had more play. It turns out, to my total surprise, that the overly tight supercharger belt was the real culprit with all of the driveability problems. I mean the belt that came with the kit was so small that I had to use a heavy-duty extra-large hose clamp to lift it over an idler pully to get it on. I'm surprised the hose clamp didn't fail. It was that tight. It was so tight that there was no give whatsoever, none. I could not force it to flex even with hand tools. It was that tight. Of course, the belt tensioner had zero play as well. It might as well have been another idler. Others with this same kit have had the same problems with respect to the original belt that came with their kits. Apparently, a certain amount of minimum play is required for the blower to function properly. Mine now has over ½ inch of play with just a finger push. Most people with that kit end up contacting Edelbrock tech support and they either send a slightly bigger diameter belt replacement or advise them to obtain a larger one locally. The stock belt included in my kit was 82" in diameter. 82.5" to 82.75" seems to work best. Mine is now 82.75". To my knowledge, nobody has ever connected the belt tightness with normal drivability problems for these kits. I happened on it totally by accident.

To double-check my theory, I downloaded the best rwhp tune that Rob developed early on in the tuning process. It was a tune that was made while dyno testing the car at Chris Groves' The Dyno Edge in Albuquerque. That tune made 691rwhp on 91 pump gas. I loaded it up today and it worked perfectly. No bucking or surging, period, in any driving circumstances. It's absolutely perfect. I can accelerate as slowly and as steadily as I want, just like stock.

So, sorry for all of the hassle, Rob. You did good from the very beginning, it appears. Edelbrock put a belt that was too small in their 2650 kits for the 2018+ models or, at least, in my case, they did. I don't think that even Edelbrock knows this. The next time that you all hear of someone with this kit that reports similar problems to mine, have them check the belt flex. There has to be some. I do hope this helps you all. I'm so relieved to have figured this out, even if it was by pure dumb luck. Lol...

Edelbrock doesn’t know much in regard to making the car perform at top abilities with their blower. Trust me. It took my shop a year to figure out how to make the car start like stock and now it’s great without any help from Edelbrock.

 

[mikengail]

I'm not surprised. When I was looking for a replacement belt, they were still recommending the way too short 82" Continental. No clue, apparently...

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