Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[illtal]

I tried hose pinching pliers without the best results. The fluid was seeping so I was trying to hurry. I found out my screws were metric thread and the tank was made with standard threads. It immediately ruined the top threads and I didn't have a tap to try to fix them. I found a bolt that was a tad too long, so I used a shim to make it all work. For now, I just raised it up a hole and skipped trying to flip the bracket without taking the bumper off. So far, it feels super steady with the two hoses attached. If that doesn't work, I'll build a new way to mount it after the track day. I'm hoping the burping funnel was able to get most of the air pockets out of it. Time to drive and put some miles on the car.

Yea, I apologize about that I had a welder do these I'm guessing tapping holes ain't what he's good at. once you get it in there and running you should be able to forget it.

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[mikengail]

Ok, I discovered something today especially peculiar with the Edelbrock 2650 Stage-1 kit on my 2018 A10 that I think some of you may be interested in reading. My car has always had problems with bucking and surging under part throttle acceleration, especially with moderate part throttle. WOT throttle has always been fine. Uphill cruise control was surging badly as well. Rob Shoemaker of Palm Beach Dyno and I went through 18 tune revisions without ever solving those problems. I finally gave up and just learned to live with it. Rob never did stop trying though. I'm the one who called it quits.

Well, I drove for over 45k miles like that and finally needed to change the serpentine belt for the blower. It was getting frayed. Recalling how hard it was to install the original belt that came with the kit, I did some research on belt size problems with the Eddys and decided to go for a larger diameter belt that was easier to install and had more play. It turns out, to my total surprise, that the overly tight supercharger belt was the real culprit with all of the driveability problems. I mean the belt that came with the kit was so small that I had to use a heavy-duty extra-large hose clamp to lift it over an idler pully to get it on. I'm surprised the hose clamp didn't fail. It was that tight. It was so tight that there was no give whatsoever, none. I could not force it to flex even with hand tools. It was that tight. Of course, the belt tensioner had zero play as well. It might as well have been another idler. Others with this same kit have had the same problems with respect to the original belt that came with their kits. Apparently, a certain amount of minimum play is required for the blower to function properly. Mine now has over ½ inch of play with just a finger push. Most people with that kit end up contacting Edelbrock tech support and they either send a slightly bigger diameter belt replacement or advise them to obtain a larger one locally. The stock belt included in my kit was 82" in diameter. 82.5" to 82.75" seems to work best. Mine is now 82.75". To my knowledge, nobody has ever connected the belt tightness with normal drivability problems for these kits. I happened on it totally by accident.

To double-check my theory, I downloaded the best rwhp tune that Rob developed early on in the tuning process. It was a tune that was made while dyno testing the car at Chris Groves' The Dyno Edge in Albuquerque. That tune made 691rwhp on 91 pump gas. I loaded it up today and it worked perfectly. No bucking or surging, period, in any driving circumstances. It's absolutely perfect. I can accelerate as slowly and as steadily as I want, just like stock.

So, sorry for all of the hassle, Rob. You did good from the very beginning, it appears. Edelbrock put a belt that was too small in their 2650 kits for the 2018+ models or, at least, in my case, they did. I don't think that even Edelbrock knows this. The next time that you all hear of someone with this kit that reports similar problems to mine, have them check the belt flex. There has to be some. I do hope this helps you all. I'm so relieved to have figured this out, even if it was by pure dumb luck. Lol...

 

[illtal]

Ok, I discovered something today especially peculiar with the Edelbrock 2650 Stage-1 kit on my 2018 A10 that I think some of you may be interested in reading. My car has always had problems with bucking and surging under part throttle acceleration, especially with moderate part throttle. WOT throttle has always been fine. Uphill cruise control was surging badly as well. Rob Shoemaker of Palm Beach Dyno and I went through 18 tune revisions without ever solving those problems. I finally gave up and just learned to live with it. Rob never did stop trying though. I'm the one who called it quits.

Well, I drove for over 45k miles like that and finally needed to change the serpentine belt for the blower. It was getting frayed. Recalling how hard it was to install the original belt that came with the kit, I did some research on belt size problems with the Eddys and decided to go for a larger diameter belt that was easier to install and had more play. It turns out, to my total surprise, that the overly tight supercharger belt was the real culprit with all of the driveability problems. I mean the belt that came with the kit was so small that I had to use a heavy-duty extra-large hose clamp to lift it over an idler pully to get it on. I'm surprised the hose clamp didn't fail. It was that tight. It was so tight that there was no give whatsoever, none. I could not force it to flex even with hand tools. It was that tight. Of course, the belt tensioner had zero play as well. It might as well have been another idler. Others with this same kit have had the same problems with respect to the original belt that came with their kits. Apparently, a certain amount of minimum play is required for the blower to function properly. Mine now has over ½ inch of play with just a finger push. Most people with that kit end up contacting Edelbrock tech support and they either send a slightly bigger diameter belt replacement or advise them to obtain a larger one locally. The stock belt included in my kit was 82" in diameter. 82.5" to 82.75" seems to work best. Mine is now 82.75". To my knowledge, nobody has ever connected the belt tightness with normal drivability problems for these kits. I happened on it totally by accident.

To double-check my theory, I downloaded the best rwhp tune that Rob developed early on in the tuning process. It was a tune that was made while dyno testing the car at Chris Groves' The Dyno Edge in Albuquerque. That tune made 691rwhp on 91 pump gas. I loaded it up today and it worked perfectly. No bucking or surging, period, in any driving circumstances. It's absolutely perfect. I can accelerate as slowly and as steadily as I want, just like stock.

So, sorry for all of the hassle, Rob. You did good from the very beginning, it appears. Edelbrock put a belt that was too small in their 2650 kits for the 2018+ models or, at least, in my case, they did. I don't think that even Edelbrock knows this. The next time that you all hear of someone with this kit that reports similar problems to mine, have them check the belt flex. There has to be some. I do hope this helps you all. I'm so relieved to have figured this out, even if it was by pure dumb luck. Lol...

Actually that was the first thing I did when installing because I couldn't get the 82" belt on at all. I bought a continental vbelt 82.75" initially , and since moved to a 82.52(?)" Gates RPM belt because of a marginally smaller pulley, No belt slip with either.

I can't believe you actually got that belt on there did it stretch a bit during all that mileage?

I'm surprised you didn't get a bearing failure. But is a good thing you tired a different belt, I'd not been happy with the bucking.

 

[mikengail]

Yeah, even though it was wearing out, I had to use a hose clamp again to get it off. So, if it stretched, it wasn't much. Crazy. And yes, my bearings have gotten a little noisy, not much though, just enough to notice. I'm keeping her, so when it gets to the point of having to replace the bearing, I'll have it ported as well. Oh, by the way, the tensioner broke during the belt removal. That's how bad it was. Good grief...

 

[Semp1]

Ok, I discovered something today especially peculiar with the Edelbrock 2650 Stage-1 kit on my 2018 A10 that I think some of you may be interested in reading. My car has always had problems with bucking and surging under part throttle acceleration, especially with moderate part throttle. WOT throttle has always been fine. Uphill cruise control was surging badly as well. Rob Shoemaker of Palm Beach Dyno and I went through 18 tune revisions without ever solving those problems. I finally gave up and just learned to live with it. Rob never did stop trying though. I'm the one who called it quits.

Well, I drove for over 45k miles like that and finally needed to change the serpentine belt for the blower. It was getting frayed. Recalling how hard it was to install the original belt that came with the kit, I did some research on belt size problems with the Eddys and decided to go for a larger diameter belt that was easier to install and had more play. It turns out, to my total surprise, that the overly tight supercharger belt was the real culprit with all of the driveability problems. I mean the belt that came with the kit was so small that I had to use a heavy-duty extra-large hose clamp to lift it over an idler pully to get it on. I'm surprised the hose clamp didn't fail. It was that tight. It was so tight that there was no give whatsoever, none. I could not force it to flex even with hand tools. It was that tight. Of course, the belt tensioner had zero play as well. It might as well have been another idler. Others with this same kit have had the same problems with respect to the original belt that came with their kits. Apparently, a certain amount of minimum play is required for the blower to function properly. Mine now has over ½ inch of play with just a finger push. Most people with that kit end up contacting Edelbrock tech support and they either send a slightly bigger diameter belt replacement or advise them to obtain a larger one locally. The stock belt included in my kit was 82" in diameter. 82.5" to 82.75" seems to work best. Mine is now 82.75". To my knowledge, nobody has ever connected the belt tightness with normal drivability problems for these kits. I happened on it totally by accident.

To double-check my theory, I downloaded the best rwhp tune that Rob developed early on in the tuning process. It was a tune that was made while dyno testing the car at Chris Groves' The Dyno Edge in Albuquerque. That tune made 691rwhp on 91 pump gas. I loaded it up today and it worked perfectly. No bucking or surging, period, in any driving circumstances. It's absolutely perfect. I can accelerate as slowly and as steadily as I want, just like stock.

So, sorry for all of the hassle, Rob. You did good from the very beginning, it appears. Edelbrock put a belt that was too small in their 2650 kits for the 2018+ models or, at least, in my case, they did. I don't think that even Edelbrock knows this. The next time that you all hear of someone with this kit that reports similar problems to mine, have them check the belt flex. There has to be some. I do hope this helps you all. I'm so relieved to have figured this out, even if it was by pure dumb luck. Lol...

Edelbrock doesn’t know much in regard to making the car perform at top abilities with their blower. Trust me. It took my shop a year to figure out how to make the car start like stock and now it’s great without any help from Edelbrock.

 

[mikengail]

I'm not surprised. When I was looking for a replacement belt, they were still recommending the way too short 82" Continental. No clue, apparently...

 

[LS1Coupe]

MIKENGAIL what did the blower belt have to do with your part throttle issues? Was a tensioner or blower causing false knock from the belt being too tight?

 

[Torinate]

Belt was too tight. Likely transmitted every vibration through the drivetrain instead of the idler absorbing some of it.

 

[mikengail]

I wish I knew. I talked to a mechanic at my local Ford service department and he said that a tensioner can't be locked all the way in for good street driving manners. The most he said that he loads up a tensioner on the GT500's is 60%. Mine was 100%, no play whatsoever...

 

[allicedout]

Hey everyone, setting up to install my E-Force stage one on my 2021 Mustang GT manual tranmission. I spent some time and read about 20 pages back to see if I could fine some answers to the questions I had. I'm getting mixed answers on fuel.... Now from what I gather I should be fine with the stock injectors and fuel pump providing I'm staying with the Edelbrock tune. As for the tune, it seems a lot of people have had issues with the Edelbrock tune and suggested a third party tune. So I'll try to keep it simple, should I got third party tune over the Edelbrock tune and if so should I add injectors and a BAP as cheap insurance? I'm sure this has been asked somewhere at some point but I have to think Edelbrock has made some changes along the way to fix issues some owners have had, but maybe not. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[illtal]

Hey everyone, setting up to install my E-Force stage one on my 2021 Mustang GT manual tranmission. I spent some time and read about 20 pages back to see if I could fine some answers to the questions I had. I'm getting mixed answers on fuel.... Now from what I gather I should be fine with the stock injectors and fuel pump providing I'm staying with the Edelbrock tune. As for the tune, it seems a lot of people have had issues with the Edelbrock tune and suggested a third party tune. So I'll try to keep it simple, should I got third party tune over the Edelbrock tune and if so should I add injectors and a BAP as cheap insurance? I'm sure this has been asked somewhere at some point but I have to think Edelbrock has made some changes along the way to fix issues some owners have had, but maybe not. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

I would buy DW95s and run a bap along with a tune. Most tuners will want you to buy bigger injectors.

At the very least put a bap on the pump. I couldn't recommend the Edelbrock tune with all of the driveability problems I had. I was an early adopter though.

I am taking off my JMS unit pm me if you want it.

 

[illtal]

I would buy DW95s and run a bap along with a tune. Most tuners will want you to buy bigger injectors.

At the very least put a bap on the pump. I couldn't recommend the Edelbrock tune with all of the driveability problems I had. I was an early adopter though.

I am taking off my JMS unit pm me if you want it.

Hmmmms

 

[100mphclub]

Hey everyone, setting up to install my E-Force stage one on my 2021 Mustang GT manual tranmission. I spent some time and read about 20 pages back to see if I could fine some answers to the questions I had. I'm getting mixed answers on fuel.... Now from what I gather I should be fine with the stock injectors and fuel pump providing I'm staying with the Edelbrock tune. As for the tune, it seems a lot of people have had issues with the Edelbrock tune and suggested a third party tune. So I'll try to keep it simple, should I got third party tune over the Edelbrock tune and if so should I add injectors and a BAP as cheap insurance? I'm sure this has been asked somewhere at some point but I have to think Edelbrock has made some changes along the way to fix issues some owners have had, but maybe not. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

What fuel do you plan to run? How much boost? Everything depends on how far you want it to go.

 

[allicedout]

What fuel do you plan to run? How much boost? Everything depends on how far you want it to go.

Pretty much what the kit puts out, around 620rwhp. I don't have any plans to upgrade right now to a stage 2. I spoke with Lidio at Alternative auto performance in Michigan, he recommends a VMP BAP and 55 to 60lb injectors to tune for 93. He doesn't like working with more then what we need for the power we want to make.. Any thoughts??

 

[illtal]

Pretty much what the kit puts out, around 620rwhp. I don't have any plans to upgrade right now to a stage 2. I spoke with Lidio at Alternative auto performance in Michigan, he recommends a VMP BAP and 55 to 60lb injectors to tune for 93. He doesn't like working with more then what we need for the power we want to make.. Any thoughts??

What is your end goal?

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