Ecoboost Swapped Cessna racecar HELP NEEDED!

[Speedycop]

Hey All! Long-time Mustang guy here, but new to this forum and the 6G platform. I've owned probably 20+ various Mustangs over the years, including a new GT in 2005, and my current Eleanor '67 fastback long-term project. I designed and built a street-legal Cessna 310 airplane racecar (the 'Spirit of Lemons') more than 10 years ago from a junk fuselage, with the help of my friends. Since then, I've road raced it in The 24 Hours of Lemons, drag raced it, autocrossed it, done burnout competitions with it, and driven it all over the country. I recently completed a 2016 Mustang Ecoboost swap into it, but I'm having serious teething issues.

I readily admit that I'm TERRIBLE at wiring and diagnostic stuff. I'm good at imagining and creating unusual builds (Google Speedycop for dozens of examples, like the Upside Down Camaro), but wiring schematics make my ADHD-addled brain hurt. I still don't have any instrumentation for this swap. I have the donor car's cluster, but apparently it's CAN bus controlled, and I can't just wire it up with the wiring swap kit I bought online from Portugal like I wanted to. After over an hour of searching, I can't find a single wiring pinout guide for the 2016 Mustang Ecoboost gauge cluster. Anyone have any sort of pinout schematic or guide for this? I really don't want to buy one if I don't have to, as funds are stretched quite thin already. I do have the OEM pigtail with wires coming out of the cluster, so I can reference wire colors instead of pin locations. I'd really appreciate any help anyone can offer, as I'm slated to leave tomorrow for the GRM Challenge competition in Florida with it this weekend.

Also, it's running out of power/boost pretty quickly at WOT. I'll be swapping plugs and coils this morning to see of that helps, and probably the ECU as well, as I have a spare one with PATS deleted. No codes stored except for P068A and P06B8, but that may be because the kill switch cuts the battery out, and probably deletes any other codes after a short time. Anyone dealt with this before?It idles and revs beautifully, but at WOT, it loses power quickly. At Cleetus and Cars Indy a few weeks ago, I ran the 1/4 mile with it. It boosted and pulled hard for about 100 yards, then ran out of power and sort of drove without pulling for the remainder. It went 15.4 seconds at 80 MPH. At roughly 2600 pounds, it should have gone a lot faster. It seems to run fine, but once it starts boosting, the power falls off quickly. It did the exact same thing in the burnout competition. It ran out of power, bogged, and sounded awful. You can see/hear it here:
Drag race:
Burnout:
BTW, I wasn't lifting as I went through the burnout chute into the arena, It was losing RPMs on its own.

I'm doing the Hot Rod Power Tour with it in 2 weeks, so I have to figure this out right away, even if I can't get it sorted before tomorrow. My new boost gauge hasn't arrived yet, but will be here today. I don't believe there's a boost leak though. I plane to eventually install a Ford Motorsport upgraded turbo and get it dyno tuned, but first I need to deal with these issues. Fuel is fresh 93 octane (ethanol free). Tank is from a 2014 Focus ST, but uses the 2016 Ecoboost pump from the donor Mustang. It has the stock Mustang automatic transmission. Exhaust is 3" catless, running with just a down pipe for now, but it has the 02 sensors in the correct locations. I had a muffler and tailpipe on it for street use, but pulled them for Indy.

I have some other goodies to install, like a BOV, upgraded wastegate actuator, and breather oil catch can setup, but I wanna get it running right first.

Any insights, tips, wiring schematics, or useful Ecoboost swap knowledge would be most appreciated! I'm in Maryville, TN, right by the Tail Of The Dragon, if there happen to be any local gurus...

-Speedy

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[Qcman17]

I'm no aviation expert but I don't think those wings are big enough to fly.........

 

[KingKona]

Yer gunna need more powah!!!

 

[HKusp]

Paging #engineermike and #cobrajet...

 

[Cobra Jet]

Usually the P068A and B can be cleared doing a crank relearn procedure. If there was any major work done on any S550, such as engine or trans, a crank relearn is necessary.

Here's some info from the forum with how to do crank relearn.

Check the pdf in this linked thread;
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...s-weird-hesitation.125119/page-2#post-2679084

Also check this link if you have a n-gauge for crank relearn:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/new-clutch-dtc-and-shudders.148583/#post-3035678

Crank relearn with SCTX4:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...des-codes-and-more-codes.146485/#post-2999715

Crank relearn with HPTuners:



M6G member @Jn2 crank relearn:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/sct-crank-relearn-questions-please-help.69190/#post-1586668

---
Here's info for how to do KAM reset too:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/kam-reset-magic.148830/#post-3040046

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ecu-reset-how-to-do-it.36757/#post-897609

---

Also remember with a manual trans S550 when doing the crank procedure, the clutch pedal should be depressed.

 

[Speedycop]

Cobra Jet,
Thanks for the info and links! I actually bought an HP Tuner for it, but haven't even opened the box. I'm out of my depth when it comes to tuning. I was gonna have AdamTuned do it remotely, once I find a dyno that can accommodate the long tail.

One issue I've found is that it keeps pumping all the coolant out of the large coolant tube above the turbo and filling the overflow up, but it doesn't go back down into the tube. It stays in the overflow reservoir and the tube goes dry, even though the reservoir sits higher. Makes NO sense to me, but maybe the head is reading too high a temp once it does that, and it's going into limp mode? The radiator does sit below the motor, but I'm careful to bleed the tube and ensure it's filled with coolant before capping the system off. I wouldn't think the radiator height would matter in a sealed system. What can cause this?

 

[Speedycop]

Trying to think the cooling problem through. The reservoir doesn't empty back into the system unless I take the cap loose to allow air in. I capped off the heater core line that comes off the thermostat housing. I'm guessing that was my mistake here but I don't know for sure. Should I tie it back in somehow? The wiring conversion harness guy said he watched the burnout vid, and he thought temps were causing it to cut out...

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

Cobra Jet,
Thanks for the info and links! I actually bought an HP Tuner for it, but haven't even opened the box. I'm out of my depth when it comes to tuning. I was gonna have AdamTuned do it remotely, once I find a dyno that can accommodate the long tail.

One issue I've found is that it keeps pumping all the coolant out of the large coolant tube above the turbo and filling the overflow up, but it doesn't go back down into the tube. It stays in the overflow reservoir and the tube goes dry, even though the reservoir sits higher. Makes NO sense to me, but maybe the head is reading too high a temp once it does that, and it's going into limp mode? The radiator does sit below the motor, but I'm careful to bleed the tube and ensure it's filled with coolant before capping the system off. I wouldn't think the radiator height would matter in a sealed system. What can cause this?

That kinked hose next to the overflow can't be doing you any favors...

JR

 

[Speedycop]

No, but it isn't the main issue. Realized today that the coolant hoses are routed incorrectly. Anyone have a complete routing diagram for the coolant hoses? Google isn't turning anything up but incomplete parts seller diagrams. I've gotta get this thing on the trailer and head south in a few hours, and I really need to sort the hoses first...

 

[shogun32]

surely you can afford the shop manual for the car...

 

[Speedycop]

Yes, but I needed the info immediately. I figured it out though.

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