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Brake pad question

Bluemustang

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For novice driver and as I progress into intermediate level later on this year or next...

Will I blow right through the OEM PP brake pads on 305 RE71R rubber? I was thinking of going GLOC R10/R8 but am now re-thinking things.
Thanks.
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kz

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For novice driver and as I progress into intermediate level later on this year or next...

Will I blow right through the OEM PP brake pads on 305 RE71R rubber? I was thinking of going GLOC R10/R8 but am now re-thinking things.
Thanks.
Doing what ? OEM pads are good, no reason to change them until they're done - don't worry about things like pads until they're worn.
 

NightmareMoon

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PP pads are pretty good, and when you start driving hard enough they won’t fall apart, you may just get a small amount of pad fade, not a dangerous amount. For me at intermediate+ running RE71Rs and PP pads, I switched to GLOC pads when I suspected pad fade might be happening, but honestly I wasn’t certain.

The GLOC 8 is designed for a different purpose than the R10/12/16. When you get there, I’d recommend the 12/10 and not apples/oranges 10/8. Also switch to GS1 street pads when you get there because the PP pads are not assumed to be compatible compounds with the GLOC R pads, but the GS1 is.

i’d run the PP pads until you start feeling reduced braking power or until they wear down, and then jump to a GLOC street set and a track set. The track pads are noisy as heck when daily driven.
 
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Bluemustang

Bluemustang

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PP pads are pretty good, and when you start driving hard enough they won’t fall apart, you may just get a small amount of pad fade, not a dangerous amount. For me at intermediate+ running RE71Rs and PP pads, I switched to GLOC pads when I suspected pad fade might be happening, but honestly I wasn’t certain.

The GLOC 8 is designed for a different purpose than the R10/12/16. When you get there, I’d recommend the 12/10 and not apples/oranges 10/8. Also switch to GS1 street pads when you get there because the PP pads are not assumed to be compatible compounds with the GLOC R pads, but the GS1 is.

i’d run the PP pads until you start feeling reduced braking power or until they wear down, and then jump to a GLOC street set and a track set. The track pads are noisy as heck when daily driven.
Why do you say R12/10 combo over the R10/R8? I'm aware of the noise the track pads can make as I've used the R10 fronts on my base GT calipers. I'm putting on Brembo front calipers and new rotors. I have a set of GS1 rears but obviously the fronts I have were for the base GT calipers so won't work going forward. Ideally I'd have GS1s and the track pads to do what you just described, keeping the material family consistent. But all of those brake pads - $$$. I'd be looking $600+ for all those brake pads.

So I started thinking what if I just use new OEM pads for both purposes and save cash? I do care about performance but also need to keep a realistic outlook.
 

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NightmareMoon

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Why do you say R12/10 combo over the R10/R8? I'm aware of the noise the track pads can make as I've used the R10 fronts on my base GT calipers. I'm putting on Brembo front calipers and new rotors. I have a set of GS1 rears but obviously the fronts I have were for the base GT calipers so won't work going forward. Ideally I'd have GS1s and the track pads to do what you just described, keeping the material family consistent. But all of those brake pads - $$$. I'd be looking $600+ for all those brake pads.

So I started thinking what if I just use new OEM pads for both purposes and save cash? I do care about performance but also need to keep a realistic outlook.
Sure, its $600 up front, but then you’re set for brake pads for quite a while. If you’re tracking the car then using the right pads for the right duty will save you money because the track pads should hold up better on track than street pads would. As for the R8s, they’re an autoxcross compound, not a track compound. They’ll glaze at the track (or thats the concern). Read what GLOC writes about those pads, the R12/10 is a known good combo.
 

BmacIL

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Sure, its $600 up front, but then you’re set for brake pads for quite a while. If you’re tracking the car then using the right pads for the right duty will save you money because the track pads should hold up better on track than street pads would. As for the R8s, they’re an autoxcross compound, not a track compound. They’ll glaze at the track (or thats the concern). Read what GLOC writes about those pads, the R12/10 is a known good combo.
R6 are autocross compound. R10/R8 holds up fine (and also still work well for autocross).
 
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Bluemustang

Bluemustang

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R6 are autocross compound. R10/R8 holds up fine (and also still work well for autocross).
Yep that was my understanding as well.
 

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Another option, if you run the stock DS2500 up front, is swapping in the DS1.11 for track duty with stock rear pads.

Pro: they can be swapped with stock DS2500, they're very good pads, and they wear very well.
Con: they're ~$500 for the fronts which is close to a GLoc set of F+R and you'll be forever be spoiled by race pad performance.

I don't autox so cannot comment on that application but this combination works well for HPDE type stuff.
 

Radiation Joe

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Can I ask why so many people recommend different COF pads front and rear. It's been my experience that factory brake bias is front heavy. Putting a less aggressive pad in the rear seems like it would give up braking performance. What happens with an R10/R10 set up? Does the car get squirrelly under braking?
 

BmacIL

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Can I ask why so many people recommend different COF pads front and rear. It's been my experience that factory brake bias is front heavy. Putting a less aggressive pad in the rear seems like it would give up braking performance. What happens with an R10/R10 set up? Does the car get squirrelly under braking?
The OEM PP pad setup has a significant CoF/compound stagger, as does the GT350. With the same compound on the rear, the rear will get into abs early and reduce total braking capability. The brake bias is front heavy, but so is the front weight distribution under braking. With the rear tires being so light, it's important that the friction is not so high as to be the limiting factor. I will say that too big of a compound stagger also, in my experience, causes a loss of braking capability but for the opposite reason: the rear is underutilized. It depends on a lot of things though: tires, aero, weight transfer, geometry/alignment.
 

BimmerDriver

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So, I had to figure out that GLOC is actually G-Loc, but I like that they're semi-local to me in NC. However, they don't seem to sell direct to retail, and randomly looking at their dealers, I can't find Ford amongst many of them, and one that did, only carried pads for the GT350/500. Who is a good vendor for the R10 on a GT PP1 car? I ask, thinking that the R10 would be a good pad for me, an experienced HPDE driver who runs on street tires but brakes aggressively, and who would prefer not to have a dedicated set of rotors (although I will if recommended). I'll swap pads between events, which I now do no more than twice a year.

Thanks!
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