The Brake pad thing again

[tosha]

If I had known you can interchange the Hawk compounds on the same rotor without too many side affects I would have gotten dedicated track pads as well. Is this really the case?

it is the case for G-LOC, you can switch between GS-1 street pads and R* pads on same rotor. never heard about Hawk having same option, but then I never explored Hawk pads enough. G-LOC's work great for me and whole range of different track compounds is really great.

How bad is the noise?

Not bad, honestly the rear sliding caliper causes the most because sliding caliper. If you do a quick swerve it knocks them into submission. Plus my radio still works, and I like putting myself through the windshield.

interestingly, so far R12 front pads have been noticeably less noisy compared to R10 on my car, no idea why .

What I've noticed earlier on R10/R8 combo- if I take out front and rear pads after a track day, clean up everything well and lubricate, there is pretty much no noise at all. at least until next track day event. but then I've gotten too lazy to do it and I just use radio or gas pedal to mitigate brake bads noise

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[slowdown]

I've never heard anyone get into a car for the first time with R18 race pads, proper rotors, etc.. and be like "wow this is way too much brake". It's always like "wow, this is a game changer".

Food for thought.

 

[gone_n_60]

Sort of ending thought since I started the thread, I'll be skipping Powerstop for my next pad exchange. Having just finished a track day from the sound of the squealers that will be soon.

 

[TeeLew]

Every manufacturer has a range of pads which are usually various temperature and friction levels. Obviously, we need to accommodate whatever temps we will see, but a little time working on the cooling side might be a better option than just concentrating on the highest temp pad.

The friction level on the front can be fairly high, in the 0.55mu range, maybe, but what you need to pay attention to is the 'bite', which is a description of how quickly the friction ramps up. We can only take so much, and a lot of high performance pads are too aggressive in how they work for big, dumb, no aero & treaded tires street(-ish) cars on fun days. About a 'medium' bite is probably all we can use. The good news is that lower bite pads usually offer better modulation and release.

You want low and linear on the rear. They're basically for decoration, so just don't create any problems. The stock pad, or something with a higher heat range, but similar friction is perfect.

Just my thoughts.

 

[gone_n_60]

Every manufacturer has a range of pads which are usually various temperature and friction levels. Obviously, we need to accommodate whatever temps we will see, but a little time working on the cooling side might be a better option than just concentrating on the highest temp pad.

The friction level on the front can be fairly high, in the 0.55mu range, maybe, but what you need to pay attention to is the 'bite', which is a description of how quickly the friction ramps up. We can only take so much, and a lot of high performance pads are too aggressive in how they work for big, dumb, no aero & treaded tires street(-ish) cars on fun days. About a 'medium' bite is probably all we can use. The good news is that lower bite pads usually offer better modulation and release.

You want low and linear on the rear. They're basically for decoration, so just don't create any problems. The stock pad, or something with a higher heat range, but similar friction is perfect.

Just my thoughts.

I'm now running Falken RT660's 295/19's have very little tread period, it's a track tire. No treaded tires this time around.

 

[TeeLew]

I'm now running Falken RT660's 295/19's have very little tread period, it's a track tire. No treaded tires this time around.

Yes, it is. A 200TW tire is a beautiful thing, but it's not a slick. A lot of these more frisky pad compounds are made for GT3 cars, or something of that nature, that can accommodate some pretty serious braking. Then they put the same material on production car backing plates. Some of it we can use and some of it we can't, even between different drivers you'll find preferences.

 

[gone_n_60]

Yes, it is. A 200TW tire is a beautiful thing, but it's not a slick. A lot of these more frisky pad compounds are made for GT3 cars, or something of that nature, that can accommodate some pretty serious braking. Then they put the same material on production car backing plates. Some of it we can use and some of it we can't, even between different drivers you'll find preferences.

One of our vendors here can set me up with some Gloc's that fit the sweet spot. Not dedicated race car and not street either. Much like the Hawk's. I burned through my stock pads in two weekends, but that is 4 days of 3 to 4 sessions.

 

[Optimum Performance]

One of our vendors here can set me up with some Gloc's that fit the sweet spot. Not dedicated race car and not street either. Much like the Hawk's. I burned through my stock pads in two weekends, but that is 4 days of 3 to 4 sessions.

Tracks, Tires, Driver Experience, Brake Cooling?

 

[Jstang23]

One of our vendors here can set me up with some Gloc's that fit the sweet spot. Not dedicated race car and not street either. Much like the Hawk's. I burned through my stock pads in two weekends, but that is 4 days of 3 to 4 sessions.

You burned through a set of Hawk pads in two weekends?! You're either hauling ass or need to learn how to brake less, lol!

 

[gone_n_60]

You burned through a set of Hawk pads in two weekends?! You're either hauling ass or need to learn how to brake less, lol!

read more carefully, burned through the "stock" pads. I ain't that fast.

 

[Jstang23]

read more carefully, burned through the "stock" pads. I ain't that fast.

The way you phrased your statement it sounded like you burned through the stock pads "much like" the Hawks. But still did you glaze the stock pads or just wear them all the way down?

 

[gone_n_60]

The way you phrased your statement it sounded like you burned through the stock pads "much like" the Hawks. But still did you glaze the stock pads or just wear them all the way down?

fronts were under 40% and one rear went to the metal, had to get a new rotor too.

 

[Egparson202]

fronts were under 40% and one rear went to the metal, had to get a new rotor too.

FYI - If you’re consuming rear pads as fast or faster than front pads, there’s a strong likelihood that’s due to AdvanceTrak intervention.

Solving that is as simple as turning it off completely AND as difficult as developing the driving skills and techniques necessary for keeping a high pace without exceeding the laws of physics. . Do be careful.

 

[gone_n_60]

FYI - If you’re consuming rear pads as fast or faster than front pads, there’s a strong likelihood that’s due to AdvanceTrak intervention.

Solving that is as simple as turning it off completely AND as difficult as developing the driving skills and techniques necessary for keeping a high pace without exceeding the laws of physics. . Do be careful.

New learning challenge! I love those! I had totally forgotten about Advancetrac staying on in Track mode, even though one of my instructors helped me turn it off on a HPDE last year. DOH! tbh my rears were about 45%, fronts were 60%.

 

[GTP]

FYI - If you’re consuming rear pads as fast or faster than front pads, there’s a strong likelihood that’s due to AdvanceTrak intervention.

Solving that is as simple as turning it off completely AND as difficult as developing the driving skills and techniques necessary for keeping a high pace without exceeding the laws of physics. . Do be careful.

Is that the hold the toggle switch and count to ten thing?

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