Beefing up a 10R80

[schmeky]

Deleting the torque management is not recommended. Torque management helps the trans live longer, but tuned according to the application.

I assume the shift time is being modified from 20ms down to 10ms?

I would also assume the Ramp times are being modified as well?

Seems 10R's burn up (clutches/hydraulics), they don't seem to break mechanically.

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[Andy13186]

What shifter is this?, buttons are integrated?

 

[CORNYOTE]

Deleting the torque management is not recommended. Torque management helps the trans live longer, but tuned according to the application.

I assume the shift time is being modified from 20ms down to 10ms?

I would also assume the Ramp times are being modified as well?

Seems 10R's burn up (clutches/hydraulics), they don't seem to break mechanically.

i believe you're correct, shift and ramp times modified. I just really wasn't a fan of removing torque management. It ate up clutches quickly.

I've seen very few mechanical breaks in the entire community. I think a pump or two, but that was from a converter going out. Mechanically they're pretty dang tough. Realistically you want your wear parts to be the weak link, but adding clutches is pretty standard across the board on all motorsports.

 

[CORNYOTE]

What shifter is this?, buttons are integrated?

Hurst shifter for 10R80, then their side plate with buttons. I removed the Hurst buttons as they were momentary and added my own latching ones off Amazon. Blue button controls the trans cooler fan bypass and red button bypasses the ABS module to turn all the traction nannies off.

 

[Exploded_Muffin]

My original trans lost 6th gear, failure in clutch packs D, E, & F. Threw a code (can't remember the code number). Forscan DTC defined the code as "overspeed" in 6th gear.

I reset this via Forscan once the new trans was installed.

New Sun Coast upgrade kit trans is working well, but I don't like the 5-6 shift in the new trans.

I have the Tuning Schools 10R80 programing software and accompanying tuners guide. I have completed the first phase of the tune (with emphasis on a boosted application) and the results are impressive so far. Shifts are quick and positive and I still have the 2nd phase to go through. Torque Management and hydraulics are going to be a factor in helping the 10R to live behind a lot of HP.

I feel if you retain the original factory trans calibration, you are only addressing 1/2 of the problem.

I think the Major Sun Coast upgrade kit combined with tuning the hydraulics and trans for boost is going to produce optimal results

I can't wait to move onto the 2nd phase of trans tuning, hopefully over the July 4th weekend I'll be done.

Hey @schmeky,

Having similar issues with the 5 - 6 shift as well on my trans. Flares a bit on the shift and at WOT is pretty harsh and causes traction loss at 120+ mph.
Did your tuning sort that out for you or still the same?

 

[schmeky]

muffin,

I should have been more descriptive. Once my original 10R died, I bought a new Ford 10R VIN matched to my Mustang.

Tore it down and did the Sun Coast thing. My 5 - 6 flare, after the new trans was in, occurred at low speed, lite throttle only. Anything past about 3K and it shifted great in 1 thru 6.

When my original 10R was dying, it flared sporadically at 5 - 6, at any throttle position, but was consistent on the flare.

I never had a harsh 5 - 6 on the original. It just totally failed one day when it went into (or I should say tried to go into) 6th.

 

[Exploded_Muffin]

muffin,

I should have been more descriptive. Once my original 10R died, I bought a new Ford 10R VIN matched to my Mustang.

Tore it down and did the Sun Coast thing. My 5 - 6 flare, after the new trans was in, occurred at low speed, lite throttle only. Anything past about 3K and it shifted great in 1 thru 6.

When my original 10R was dying, it flared sporadically at 5 - 6, at any throttle position, but was consistent on the flare.

I never had a harsh 5 - 6 on the original. It just totally failed one day when it went into (or I should say tried to go into) 6th.

Yeap, I'm having the same experience as well. The slight 5 - 6 flare happens intermittently and only at low throttle inputs with RPM under 2500.
Doesn't flare on any shift at decent throttle input or WOT, just shifts very hard at WOT in all gears (which I do like but might not be so great for longevity).

Not a big bother to me but was wondering if you were able to do anything about the low rpm 5-6 flare with your custom tuning or living with it.
If you were able to smooth it out with tuning I can go bother my tuner otherwise I'll leave it be.

Thanks for the info

 

[schmeky]

I did my first WOT after the recommended 500 mile break in on 7-11-22 (via Sun Coast's recommendation). Oddly enough, the first WOT was in a roll on with a super nice Porsche 911 Carrera 4S!

My low speed 5 - 6 flare is almost gone thru quite a bit of tuning, about 90-95% of the time it does not occur.

Problem is I'm not a 90-95% kinda' guy, drive myself nuts trying to grab that extra 5 - 10%.

More driving will let me know, if it persists, I'll ping HP Tuners tech support.

 

[Buldawg76]

I know how you feel trying for that extra 5-10% all the time.

BD

 

[crimsonmustang]

I know how you feel trying for that extra 5-10% all the time.

BD

9.5@145 4200# 13psi 10r80 slippin new clutches and converter

 

[bankyf]

I did my first WOT after the recommended 500 mile break in on 7-11-22 (via Sun Coast's recommendation). Oddly enough, the first WOT was in a roll on with a super nice Porsche 911 Carrera 4S!

My low speed 5 - 6 flare is almost gone thru quite a bit of tuning, about 90-95% of the time it does not occur.

Problem is I'm not a 90-95% kinda' guy, drive myself nuts trying to grab that extra 5 - 10%.

More driving will let me know, if it persists, I'll ping HP Tuners tech support.

HP Tuners does not offer tuning tech support (and are also not very responsive). I suspect you purchased The Tuning School's course, In which case they do include 1 year of support with the purchase. I'm not sure which employee provides the actual support at this time, but they have at least one who really knows his stuff on the 10r80. You also may find more information, or another member willing to help in the Ford trans tuning section of the HPTuners support forum.

 

[schmeky]

Bankyf,

Thanks.

 

[Kamakanaaa]

Sooo . . . my trans went kaput after 21K total miles, with about 7K of those boosted. I knew from the beginning of boost this was a possibility.

Ordered a new trans from a local Ford Dealer (gave me a discount since I have been a past customer).

So I am going to tear down this new Ford 10R80 trans, install the Sun Coast upgrade kit (got if from Beefcake) with X-tra capacity clutches and the new GPZ fiber clutches.

I also have the Tuning Schools manual for modifying the trans for increased line pressure, shift points, shift firmness, etc.

Since I have a full machine shop, I intend to see if there are any additional things I can do to add even more clutches (machine the apply pistons for instance).

I'll tune the trans using the Tuning Schools software to tune for a boost application.

Hopefully when done I'll have a tough enough trans to handle my boosted Coyote.

If anyone is interested I can post pics as we go.

How much boost were you running?

 

[schmeky]

Kamakanna,

I don't have a boost gauge, but I would estimate around 8.5 - 9 psi.

I finally tore down my original 10R and I am amazed. Not near as bad as I thought it would be. Have some heat spots in 2 clutch packs only. Other 4 clutch elements the fibers and steels look excellent.

I think you could have a stout 10R using the much less expensive Sun Coast upgrade kit that does not increase the clutch count. However this is hp dependent, but at my estimated whp of 640-650, the lower cost Sun Coast kit with some hydraulic and shift tuning would no doubt hold up well, based on what I am seeing in my original 10R.

Over 700 whp I would opt for the increased clutch count Sun Coast kit.

If you have a stock trans and running single digit boost, I think the 10R could live a healthy life with a hydraulic tune only, tuned for boost applications. But do this at the same time you go FI, don't wait.

 

[Exploded_Muffin]

Kamakanna,

I don't have a boost gauge, but I would estimate around 8.5 - 9 psi.

I finally tore down my original 10R and I am amazed. Not near as bad as I thought it would be. Have some heat spots in 2 clutch packs only. Other 4 clutch elements the fibers and steels look excellent.

I think you could have a stout 10R using the much less expensive Sun Coast upgrade kit that does not increase the clutch count. However this is hp dependent, but at my estimated whp of 640-650, the lower cost Sun Coast kit with some hydraulic and shift tuning would no doubt hold up well, based on what I am seeing in my original 10R.

Over 700 whp I would opt for the increased clutch count Sun Coast kit.

If you have a stock trans and running single digit boost, I think the 10R could live a healthy life with a hydraulic tune only, tuned for boost applications. But do this at the same time you go FI, don't wait.

What clutch packs had the heat spots? Trying to see if we had the same failure point.

I'm a bit surprised that some burnt clutches would cause your transmission to fail completely.
Was that the only damage you saw in there? Nothing broken?

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