You did see this post from @Superchomper2003, right (Post #11). Look at the specs he quoted and compare to the table I posted.Yes, I checked. The tech told me that standing connecting rod side clearance was .325mm and max was .5mm. He said two of mine were over .8mm and all is the rest were between .5mm and .6mm
Section 303-01C Engine - 5.0L 32V Ti-VCT/5.0L Ti-VCT V8So that is a screen shoot please reference what section , sub section of the service manual
Like I said and you said ... the service manual doesn't show how to check it or to check it. But that doesn't mean it's not important, otherwise they wouldn't even show the clearance specs?Yes I did see that , but what I was asking is where are you getting the illustrations checking rod ide clearance . I can not find it in the serive manual .
Are you sure that is correct ?Section 303-01C Engine - 5.0L 32V Ti-VCT/5.0L Ti-VCT V8
It is the section in the manual I have that shows the clearance specs. Right off the top of the page.Are you sure that is correct ?
Nope, didn't fail. This really shouldn't be this difficult.So my friend , when I asked about a manual reference . You failed . That s for a 5.2 not a 5.0 . But you really didn't fail because you are looking for an answer . Point is the 5.2 , flat plane crank , is ay defiant then a 5.o crank . I never thought of looking there . So can we put this to rest ? Besides If there was a bearing issue then a manual transmission would make the noise come and go ? Load the crank unload the crank . Just sayibg
You should know that the BBQ tick will never be "put to rest" until someone figures it out. It's like hunting for Big Foot ... you see the signs it exists, but just can't seem to find where they live - lol.So can we put this to rest ? Besides If there was a bearing issue then a manual transmission would make the noise come and go ? Load the crank unload the crank . Just sayibg
Looks like you're looking at a 2011 shop manual (top of the screen). And the Section says 5.4L (Shelby GT-500 engine).Here you go . Can we agree to disagree ? Oh by the way I have one of these![]()
Looks like you're looking at a 2011 shop manual (top of the screen). And the Section says 5.4L.
Look at a 2015-2017 or a 2018+ ... 5.0L. I'd venture to say all modular Fords will most likely have the same rod side clearance specs.
What's your manual show for the rod side clearance on a 2018+ ?[/QU
The manual states the same , but ther is no corrective action . Point is when a technician runs it to bid something that is questionable he /she should reach out for an answer . Maybe I am not like most ,but to the op I would like an answer so I can explain why tis is normal .
As I suspected ... the rod side clearances are all the same for 2015 to 2019. No surprise, thanks for that. Are we on the same page now?The manual states the same , but ther is no corrective action . Point is when a technician runs it to bid something that is questionable he /she should reach out for an answer . Maybe I am not like most ,but to the op I would like an answer so I can explain why tis is normal.
So what are you getting at ? As per the manual this is not something to check . Why would a tech check this ? I have the answer do you ?As I suspected ... the rod side clearances are all the same for 2015 to 2019. No surprise, thanks for that. Are we on the same page now?
So if you opened up a motor and measured all the rod side clearances and found 3 of the 8 to be out of factory spec, what would you do?
I don't care what anyone says ... parts being out of factory spec is a problem - out of spec parts is not "normal". Otherwise, there wouldn't be a clearance spec.
Just because there is no step to measure the rod side clearance, or no corrective action in the service manual for excessive rod side clearance doesn't mean nothing should be done. At least I wouldn't just let it go and send someone down the road.
Why do you think Ford says to replace the short block when something out of spec is found in the short block? I guess a shop could order a new crankshaft and new rods and do a rebuild, but then you get into new bearings for the new rods with the correct size codes and same for all the crank bearings and all that jazz - too complicated. It's just cheaper and faster to replace the short block assembly.