BBQ Tick Solved?

[stangman638]

Man you are digging deep and thats not on a gen3 engine thus not a duel injected engine either. IMO that issues is irrelavent.

Right it's not, meaning I think it is something else causing these bearings to fail.

Identical tick, difference being that engine had some miles on it.

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[Notagain]

If I get a block, Im running straight up break in oil.

LOL thats not going to solve a thing for a DI or Duel fuel injected engine......

Did you read the enginelabs link?

DI engine and Duel Injected engines are going to have their own inherent issues. This tick nonsense being one of them

 

[stangman638]

LOL thats not going to solve a thing for a DI or Duel fuel injected engine......

Did you read the enginelabs link?

DI engine and Duel Injected engines are going to have their own inherent issues. This tick nonsense being one of them

I did read it, they are flogging a product, which generally makes an opinion one sided. I would believe a tech that worked on his own car, over an article selling oil.

 

[Notagain]

Right it's not, meaning I think it is something else causing these bearings to fail.

Identical tick, difference being that engine had some miles on it.

Yeah like fuel in the oil and shit oil that breaks down when diluted with fuel and then the thinned out oil wreaks havoc on the engine.....

 

[stangman638]

Yeah like fuel in the oil and shit oil that breaks down when diluted with fuel and then the thinned out oil wreaks havoc on the engine.....

If that were truly the case, how do they explain the "havoc" wrecked from guys with 4 miles on the car driving it off the lot with the issue?

 

[Notagain]

I did read it, they are flogging a product, which generally makes an opinion one sided. I would believe a tech that worked on his own car, over an article selling oil.

You mean like all the companies leg humping catch cans but yet the damn engine doesnt have one on it from factory? LOL

 

[stangman638]

Your right

 

[Notagain]

If that were truly the case, how do they explain the "havoc" wrecked from guys with 4 miles on the car driving it off the lot with the issue?

4 miles? How does that matter? Ever seen an engine self destruct on an engine dyno from metal contamination in the oil? Or in this case more likely fuel in the oil. Engine dyno engine had zero miles but had still been run.


Miles on the odometer dont mean dick.

 

[stangman638]

4 miles? How does that matter? Even seen an engine self destruct on an engine dyno from metal contamination in the oil? Or in this case more likely fuel in the oil.

Miles on the odometer dont mean dick.

But again, if all that were accurate, it would not be 70-80% of the 2018s with no tick... It would more than likely be 80% would have the tick.

Unless that 20% has some unknown issue of getting more fuel in the oil than the other 80%.

 

[Notagain]

But again, if all that were accurate, it would not be 70-80% of the 2018s with no tick... It would more than likely be 80% would have the tick.

No 2 engines are the same period. I dont care if they were built in same factory, same day, same process, same everything.

If we want to go down this road lets go into the subject of engine break in.

I say once its left the factory and made it to consumer drive it how you want.

I live in North Dakota with a 10 mile commute every day. I got my 2018 in Fargo ND 80 miles south of me. Day 1 of ownership it was hauling ass home with the cruise set at 83 mph. Its got 1800 miles on it now and none BBQ bullshit as of yet.

Engine breakin is a hotly debated subject too. I say drive it like you stole it and no need to baby it. Thats just my 2 cents and did the same with my 2016 before it got totaled. That one has 38k miles on it. For the most part my cars only have 2 modes. 80 + mph with the cruise set or parked for most of its life.

 

[Notagain]

Ohh and after the local dealer managed to curb rash a wheel on my last car with a 2 post lift Ill do my own damn oil changes. Documented dated and reciepts all in a little binder in the glove box.

Last car had a service plan. They are a joke and a waste of money screw that noise Ill save the money and the hassle and do it myself. I work as a diesel tech for the military full time anways. I have more than enough time and space and resources to take care of it myself. Long story short I dont trust dealers or other people. They can pull excuses out of their asses and feed it to others at the Stealership.

Want to bet I wont have the BBQ Tick engine in my car either?

I wont be relying on some service tech to pull some excuse out of his ass why the engine ticks or be using Fords shit oil either.

 

[Condor1970]

If tiny particles of bearing material were getting into oil passages, how would that score cylinders? You do realize the oil passages going through the crankshaft are like 1/8" diameter. You would need BB's to plug those up. And with that much oil flow there is nowhere for tiny bearing particles to settle out. Also, bearing material usually has a bit of antimony type alloys. They are extremely soft by comparison to the super hard plasma arc liners and piston rings. That metal is so hard, you would need actual sand to do that kind of damage. The only thing that really scores cylinders is the rings themselves when you have a lack of oil, or cylinder walls are not properly honed and in round. What I want to know, is if small amounts of bearing material are the cause, then why do some of these cars have the tick right out of the factory door. Other than a quick factory dyno, they have little to no run time for bearings to eat themselves enough to develop a tick.

I would be much more inclined to think that any noise from the engine is due to initial tolerance issues. Whether it's journal to crank clearances, or lifters, valve seating issues, etc. The other would be some kind of issue with the oil pump using certain types of low viscosity oil.

 

[Notagain]

Fuel wash and fuel thinning out the oil. Thats causing the metal on metal, ring to bore scoring.

As for metal particles in the oil that too is fuel thinned oil. Oil breaks down with the fuel in it and the bearings degrade.

Until someone can prove the fuel contaminating the oil is not a very real very likely reason for this issue I'll continue to blame this as the cause.

As for plugged passages umm no I dont believe that at all. I dont believe its a tolerance issue either.

Its an oil issue.

 

[Condor1970]

Fuel wash and fuel thinning out the oil. Thats causing the metal on metal, ring to bore scoring.

As for metal particles in the oil that too is fuel thinned oil. Oil breaks down with the fuel in it and the bearings degrade.

Until someone can prove the fuel contaminating the oil is not a very real very likely reason for this issue I'll continue to blame this as the cause.

As for plugged passages umm no I dont believe that at all. I dont believe its a tolerance issue either.

Its an oil issue.

To break down 10qts of oil to the point of providing no lubrication, you woukd see a noticeable increase in oil level. That much fuel would be a seriously dangerous explosive hazard before it got to the point it would destroy your bearings. I know this, because I run large diesel generators at work, and a big concern is fuel dilution. So we test it annually. However, even for those engines, as hard as they work, they do have a notable amount of fuel dilution. Yet it's nowhere near enough to destroy the engine bearings.

 

[Kong76]

I had the tick starting at 1500 miles on my 16' after first oil change. Didn't put on a catch can till 6000 miles. Say what you want but not having what I pour out of that can every three weeks going into my throttle body seems ok by me. Fwiw the tick does go away after about 1200-1500 miles after oil change. Why that is idk. I put ceratec in it last change just to see and it stopped the tick within a day and 250 miles after change.

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