BBQ Tick After Oil Change...

[VinnyVicci]

Guys with a 2018+ Coyote can maybe disable the electronic variable oil pump function to get more oil pressure at idle. I'm assuming the oil flow (and therefore oil pressure) is cut back at idle and low RPM on the Gen 3 Coyote.

Maybe someone with the shop manual for a 2018+ can verify the oil pump variable flow funtionality.

The Gen 2 Coyote does not have a computer controlled variable flow oil pump.

I think you might have hit the nail on the head. It seems like something turns on when it ticks then turns off.

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[Kong76]

Ever find out what was causing it? I have the same exact issue.

No I did not. It still does it. I treat this car like a rental now. Could care less about it.

 

[Condor1970]

I think you might have hit the nail on the head. It seems like something turns on when it ticks then turns off.

What I'd like to know, is if there is some way to program the idle pressure higher. Maybe something in Forscan??.?...

 

[GT Pony]

What I'd like to know, is if there is some way to program the idle pressure higher. Maybe something in Forscan??.?...

Maybe there's a simple way to disable the variable output oil pump control valve it's always open and puts out full oil volume at all RPM, like a standard oil pump.

 

[VinnyVicci]

What I'd like to know, is if there is some way to program the idle pressure higher. Maybe something in Forscan??.?...

I talked to a ford engineer and he says the vendors for t

What I'd like to know, is if there is some way to program the idle pressure higher. Maybe something in Forscan??.?...

i talked to a ford engineer at work. He mentioned that the vendor for the piece that sucks the oil in, inside the oil pan is notorious for sending the piece with no plastic baffle or some type of o ring. It causes noises under certain conditions if that piece is missing. Don’t know if that’s the cause but I found it interesting info.

 

[GT Pony]

I talked to a ford engineer at work. He mentioned that the vendor for the piece that sucks the oil in, inside the oil pan is notorious for sending the piece with no plastic baffle or some type of o ring. It causes noises under certain conditions if that piece is missing. Don’t know if that’s the cause but I found it interesting info.

If the oil pump sucks any air due to missing an O-ring on the oil pick-up tube, that can cause oil aeration (air bubbles in the oil). That might also make the oil cavitate easier because of the air bubbles in the oil.

The LS Chevy engines had a TSB about something similar back in early 2000. A bad O-ring on the oil pick-up tube going to the oil pump, and the symptom was engine ticking noises.

 

[VinnyVicci]

If the oil pump sucks any air due to missing an O-ring on the oil pick-up tube, that can cause oil aeration (air bubbles in the oil). That might also make the oil cavitate easier because of the air bubbles in the oil.

The LS Chevy engines had a TSB about something similar back in early 2000. A bad O-ring on the oil pick-up tube going to the oil pump, and the symptom was engine ticking noises.

That’s exactly what he explained to me. Said it’s nothing detrimental. He explained how when it goes through it ends up getting the bubbles out. Just that with out that, it makes the motor make a noise. How true all this is..I don’t know. As soon as I showed him a vid on the intermittent tick he said o ring missing. Without me explaining anything.

 

[accel]

That’s exactly what he explained to me. Said it’s nothing detrimental. He explained how when it goes through it ends up getting the bubbles out. Just that with out that, it makes the motor make a noise. How true all this is..I don’t know. As soon as I showed him a vid on the intermittent tick he said o ring missing. Without me explaining anything.

would that be something ford'd be willing to fix rather than sb/lb replacement?

 

[VinnyVicci]

would that be something ford'd be willing to fix rather than sb/lb replacement?

If that’s the reason for the tick, I don’t know. Maybe somebody on here has one opened up and can confirm. I was explained that it isn’t detrimental but then again the person I talked to doesn’t work on coyotes.

 

[Condor1970]

One would also think that if slightly aerated oil at low idle RPM pressure is pumped into lag adusters, then those air bubbles don't provide enough hydraulic pressure to prevent the lifter arm from maintaining contact as it should. Thus, an ocassional tick may be heard. As pressure increases, the air bubbles would eventually be compressed enough to maintain contact.
I would think the same thing could occur with just low oil pressures, air bubbles or not.

It would be interesting to see if anyone has pulled their oil pan and found this so-called missing O-ring.

 

[Mrmarkmac]

One would also think that if slightly aerated oil at low idle RPM pressure is pumped into lag adusters, then those air bubbles don't provide enough hydraulic pressure to prevent the lifter arm from maintaining contact as it should. Thus, an ocassional tick may be heard. As pressure increases, the air bubbles would eventually be compressed enough to maintain contact.
I would think the same thing could occur with just low oil pressures, air bubbles or not.

It would be interesting to see if anyone has pulled their oil pan and found this so-called missing O-ring.

How would the the createc fix factor into the theory? Does it make it harder for bubbles to form?

 

[GT Pony]

How would the the createc fix factor into the theory? Does it make it harder for bubbles to form?

Maybe ... but there are also guys who used Ceratec to get rid of the BBQ tick, then changed oil and didn't use any Ceratec and the tick was still gone. Ceratec is supposed to treat the metal with an anti-friction layer that stays there for a while, and that's why the tick didn't return with an oil change and no Ceratec the 2nd time around.

That's why I keep coming back to a mechanical clearance issue that is triggered by the friction level between the parts

 

[Condor1970]

Maybe ... but there are also guys who used Ceratec to get rid of the BBQ tick, then changed oil and didn't use any Ceratec and the tick was still gone. Ceratec is supposed to treat the metal with an anti-friction layer that stays there for a while, and that's why the tick didn't return with an oil change and no Ceratec the 2nd time around.

That's why I keep coming back to a mechanical clearance issue that is triggered by the friction level between the parts

That's why I'm thinking it's probably lazy HLA's at low oil pressure. If it is a "failed" HLA, then the ticking gets very loud. But, if it's just a slightly low oil pressure, then the tick could be very slight, or vary slightly with RPM changes, as we all note. And, it's quite possibly the most common HLA on the 3rd cylinder at a spot in the engine block that gets the lowest oil pressure. The Ceratec increases lubricity to allow for it to function properly at lower oil pressures with no gap. For some owners, the plating effect sticks around for a short while after the oil change, only to inevitably start ticking again when it can't fully maintain contact with the lifter arm.

I also think this is why the ticking noise went away for one guy who used Rislone cleaner. It's possible with lower oil pressure, the HLA's tend to stick a little, and the added cleaners allow for better function. If the ticking came from just about any other part on the engine, I just can't see how the Rislone would have solved the ticking problem like it did.

After my last oil change with QSUD 5w30, the ticking has been back, and quite noticeable. I added 1/2 bottle Ceratec this morning, and the ticking immediately stopped. Adding 1/2 bottle every oil change may become a normal part of my maintenance now, since nothing else seems to work.

 

[GT Pony]

That's why I'm thinking it's probably lazy HLA's at low oil pressure. If it is a "failed" HLA, then the ticking gets very loud. But, if it's just a slightly low oil pressure, then the tick could be very slight, or vary slightly with RPM changes, as we all note. And, it's quite possibly the most common HLA on the 3rd cylinder at a spot in the engine block that gets the lowest oil pressure. The Ceratec increases lubricity to allow for it to function properly at lower oil pressures with no gap. For some owners, the plating effect sticks around for a short while after the oil change, only to inevitably start ticking again when it can't fully maintain contact with the lifter arm.

I also think this is why the ticking noise went away for one guy who used Rislone cleaner. It's possible with lower oil pressure, the HLA's tend to stick a little, and the added cleaners allow for better function. If the ticking came from just about any other part on the engine, I just can't see how the Rislone would have solved the ticking problem like it did.

After my last oil change with QSUD 5w30, the ticking has been back, and quite noticeable. I added 1/2 bottle Ceratec this morning, and the ticking immediately stopped. Adding 1/2 bottle every oil change may become a normal part of my maintenance now, since nothing else seems to work.

Could very well be a lazy HLA. On the cars where the tick comes and goes with the AC compressor turning on & off, could be the slight decrease in engine RPM with the AC compressor engaged lowers the oil pressure just enough to trigger the ticking.

But also some cars tick with RPM up to 1500~1800 RPM, but maybe the oil pump is weaker in those cars (?). Oil pressure should go up quite a bit from idle (650 RPM) to 1800 RPM.

How much moly does QSUD 5W-30 contain in it's formulation?

I'm running Valvoline Advanced 5W-30 in my 2015 now and the engine sounds very quiet, but mine never ticked to start with. But my engine sounds quieter with the Valvoline than it did with the Motorcraft. The Valvoline Advanced has moly and titanium now.

 

[Condor1970]

Could very well be a lazy HLA. On the cars where the tick comes and goes with the AC compressor turning on & off, could be the slight decrease in engine RPM with the AC compressor engaged lowers the oil pressure just enough to trigger the ticking.

But also some cars tick with RPM up to 1500~1800 RPM, but maybe the oil pump is weaker in those cars (?). Oil pressure should go up quite a bit from idle (650 RPM) to 1800 RPM.

How much moly does QSUD 5W-30 contain in it's formulation?

I'm running Valvoline Advanced 5W-30 in my 2015 now and the engine sounds very quiet, but mine never ticked to start with. But my engine sounds quieter with the Valvoline than it did with the Motorcraft. The Valvoline Advanced has moly and titanium now.

QSUD runs the engine VERY quiet. Quieter than when I ran M1. Only noise I hear with QSUD is the tick. My tick actually becomes constant with increased engine RPM in the 2-3k range, like a ticking lifter with no randomness. However, once oil pressure surges once over 3,000rpm, the tick suddenly goes away. The oil pressure below 3,000rpm remains fairly constant around 20-25psi with a very slow increase above 2,000rpm, until it hits 3,000rpm. That's when the bypass closes and it surges to 80psi, all ticking immediately goes away.

The computer controlled pump at lower rpm, doesn't really have big swings in oil pressure. It only jumps high suddenly when rpm hits about 3,000.

When I hear the tick at idle, I added 1/2 bottle Ceratec with the engine running. Ticking vanished immediately, and does not come back when I rev up the engine.

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