B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[2021GT500]

the cut out is 9.13” on the skar 10

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[gsxr1300]

I know I'm late to this party, but I do have some useful information I would like to share with the group. I have read nearly all the posts on this site regarding the B&O system. There is a lot of good information and I also found some misconceptions as well. I lived with the stock system for a year to give it a good listen before doing anything. I do agree that the B&O subwoofer in the trunk of my 21 GT/CS is a POS. The same can be said of the A pillar tweeters. Now my tastes will differ than yours and that's all part of finding what makes you happy. So I decided to tackle the subwoofer first since I could no long stand the muddy boomy sound coming from it. There was one member on here that measured the car's cabin resonance at ~ 65hZ. This was very inciteful since I attributed the boom to this frequency. He also measured the subwoofer's resonance at around the same frequency, reinforcing the boom. Clearly Ford was getting free bass loudness without spending the watts to do so. Now being an electrical engineer, I wanted to retune the subwoofer so that it wouldn't excite the cabin resonance. Meaning swapping the speaker out to shift the subwoofer resonance away from 65hZ.
This is were I differ with some of the members that went the Pioneer speaker route. While is seems like the least amount of modification to the stock enclosure, it's db rating at 74 kills it for me. Let me explain, that speaker will play lower at all the bass frequencies where only the 65hZ needs taming. While it sounds good because you killed the boom by shifting the resonance away, you're missing the lowest octaves.
I looked at a lot of DVC subwoofers, and again a member here had a list with ones that would fit without much headache. Now that list overlooked the Polk Audio units which I was leaning quite heavily towards until I took a longer look at DD audio's RL-SW10A. That unit met all of the criteria that I was looking for. It's loud with the stock amp at 86db. Built like a battleship. Cheap at ~$80. Fit in the whole in the enclosure. And only required some small box mods.
Let's face it people, once you start down this road there is no going back, so trying to preserve a stock appearance or minimize holes drilled goes out the window.
So once you pull out the stocker and with the enclosure empty Dyno-mat all sides and back of the box. You don't need to wrap the corners, just the larger flat surfaces that will vibrate. Double up on the largest sections. Leave the front alone for appearance. Now you'll have an acoustically dead box. With a flat blade screwdriver snap off the 12 o'clock plastic tab and clean off with a sharp blade. Use foam weather stripping and go around the mounting hole. Next stuff the box with fiberglass insulation not the poly-fill crap. The glass just performs better. Use Metra 72-6514 speaker harness to extend the wires to reach the binding posts on the woofer. Makes installation easier. Also note the wire color on the 72-6514 is backwards Black is the positive and Red is the negative once plugged onto the stock harness. I also removed the rubber trim ring from the speaker and dropped in in the hole. Drill new holes and use #8 self tapping screws to hold it down. Now if you're handy, use about 1.5 inch wide weather stripping and line the inner edge of the stock outer trim ring to extend it down, this allowed me to put it in place, hide the screws and use the bar grill to hold it down.
If you buy he woofer directly from DD Audio they also sell a 10" bar grill that fits nearly perfectly. You have to trim the lower right mounting bracket of the grill to clear the enclosure's mounting foot, but it's quick work with a hacksaw.
A few words on the stock grill, while it does offer the most protection, it also impedes the air movement in front of the woofer. The whole point of the woofer is to move air. That's why when you see competition systems they use zero grills. That air movement is what you feel as well as hear, so don't choke it off.
I will admit the RL-SW10A does require a break in period before you can appreciate it's full potential. Having said that, this thing with the stock amp hits. No boom, no mud, deep tight punchy bass all the way down as low as low can go. I listen to heavy metal and it's so hard to get the kick drums to hit and sound right, but I nailed it.
I could not be happier with the sub woofer I chose. Some of you made the same choice and I thank you for leading me in that direction. The efficiency of the redline driver is awesome. You'll be surprised how loud it will play with the stock amp. People will think you're running 1000W back there. Bottom line in all this is no matter which Subwoofer you chose, shifting it off the cabin resonance is the magic formula to get at least the bass response of the B&O system better.
I'll address the tweeters in another post. I've chosen them and just need to install them.

Hey Joe where are you in RI?

 

[WD Pro]

Great thread. How do I remove the stock trim ring without cracking it or breaking pins off?

It’s possible (but tricky) to get that speaker trim ring off with zero damage or marks to any of the plastics.

Leave it in the sun (or warm it up) and use two trim removal tools. Slide one underneath the ring following the circumference and the other like a traditional pry bar at right angle to the circumference. Use even pressure on both tools. There is a cone clip for every screw and the position between the clips and the screws are fixed. Look under the edge of the ring to locate the first clip and then note it’s position to find the others. The hardest clips are the ones under the trim ‘wings', leave them to the end so you have most movement and best visibility.

WD

WD

 

[2021GT500]

I got the trim ring off thanks WD

 

[TonyNJ]

WD

Did you do this with the box out of the car or still installed?

 

[WD Pro]

Did you do this with the box out of the car or still installed?

I felt sure I did it with the box out, but I looked back through my photos and they suggest otherwise :

I have defo had the box out, but I suspect I must be recalling when I fitted the taillight sequencers.

It would defo be easier with the box out (visibility and tool access)

WD

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

the cut out is 9.13” on the skar 10

Yeah it won't fit without opening up the hole with that hole being 9.055". When I was doing my research I found these as possible woofers that would require no box hole modifications.
Polk DB1042DVC 85db ~$80
Polk MM1042DVC 86db ~$115
Alpine S2-W10D4 84.5db ~60
DD Audio RL-SW10A 86db ~80
As well as the Pioneer units that most have been installing. Best bang for your buck to me is the DD Audio. Now, I'm in no way affiliated with them. I just feel like the woofer was engineered perfectly for that size enclosure.

 

[gsxr1300]

Ill be doing this soon, I picked up the DD redline. Joe ill be following the instructions you posted.

 

[2021GT500]

Skar 10 fits in my factory enclosure with minor modification. I filled down these ridges in the photos.

added poly fill as well

the screw holes do not line up, factory sud has 6 screws the skar has 8 screws

 

[TonyNJ]

Skar 10 fits in my factory enclosure with minor modification. I filled down these ridges in the photos.

added poly fill as well

the screw holes do not line up, factory sud has 6 screws the skar has 8 screws

What's your impression of the sound versus the OEM sub?

 

[S550HPP]

Skar 10 fits in my factory enclosure with minor modification. I filled down these ridges in the photos.

added poly fill as well

the screw holes do not line up, factory sud has 6 screws the skar has 8 screws

Not big deal should run some 1/8 - 1/4 foam single sided adhesive tape around the circumference before mounting speaker anyway. Will seal those holes.

 

[2021GT500]

What's your impression of the sound versus the OEM sub?

Seams to sound deeper lows and hit harder. It’s 84db at 1 watt efficient

 

[2021GT500]

Not big deal should run some 1/8 - 1/4 foam single sided adhesive tape around the circumference before mounting speaker anyway. Will seal those holes.

The skar subs come with a rubber surround that goes over the edge of the basket covering the screw holes and seals the sub the enclosure.

 

[S550HPP]

The skar subs come with a rubber surround that goes over the edge of the basket covering the screw holes and seals the sub the enclosure.

I've heard good things about Skar brand. That's a nice detail my JL did not come with it.

 

[TonyNJ]

No joke. What was I waiting for?

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