B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[joe603]

I was worried that a 10" sub wouldn't be enough...so I went with dual 12s on mine! Used the OEM B&O sub inputs for my Audio Control LC8i. Mounted amps/components in the "spare tire" area...still need to pretty it up a bit. The real struggle was actually the power wire from the battery. Getting through the firewall was nuts, and I ended up pulling the wheel off to get to it. The other was 2 little screws for the remote gain control under the toggle buttons, in the middle between the USB port and 12v power. THAT was not a fun few hours with an angled attachment to get the screw to bite into the plastic. It may have been quicker to just pull out the entire bezel...but I didn't want to risk breaking tabs. Broke 1 on the shifter plate while pulling that up.

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[Benjamin Hundred]

Hey guys, maybe I missed it, but are there any wiring diagrams for the Shaker and B&O subs? Specifically where it wires into the vehicle harness. Need to compare the two for making an adapter.

I have the Shaker 8” installed, and I’m building a convertible GT500 and when taking apart a donor car I found the B&O goes from the sub into the main harness with no separate connector like on the Shaker. So I’m trying to splice the two together to make a harness.

 

[Gregs24]

Hey guys, maybe I missed it, but are there any wiring diagrams for the Shaker and B&O subs? Specifically where it wires into the vehicle harness. Need to compare the two for making an adapter.

I have the Shaker 8” installed, and I’m building a convertible GT500 and when taking apart a donor car I found the B&O goes from the sub into the main harness with no separate connector like on the Shaker. So I’m trying to splice the two together to make a harness.

The B&O has a plug on the sub enclosure (assume the Shaker is the same) which connects to the harness.

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

Hey, yes you’re right. But the Shaker has a short 12” connector that goes from the back of the sub and then to the harness. The B&O goes directly from the sub connector to the harness. I’m cutting off the B&O part of the harness and then wanting to adapt it to the sub end of the shaker sub connector/adapter so it plugs in. I tried making a diagram, when I’ve tried explaining before no one gets it.

 

[Clintro]

@cheeser @Kachøw @Wantedx9 @davidkrocks and for everone else interested! Video is up!

I know youtube would've been easy but due to a video on my youtube channel which went viral across the world years ago I don't want this video to show up on a lot of peoples feeds

I ordered the Pioneer TS-A250D4. I'm sure this DIY is compatible with other brands/models but some of the things I say in the video is based on this Pioneer unit and the included parts.

Also I am not an editing master or a good streamer so I did it in 3rd take and thought that would do

I've found some good points to time mark in the video but watch it and see if that is useful:
00:25 - OEM connector disassembly
02:10 - Taking of the bezel of the mesh without breaking the bezel
03:22 - Me talking Danish for a moment since my 2 year old daughter was curious of what I was doing!
03:42 - The needed modifications to the new subwoofer unit to make it fit with the OEM subwoofer box and mesh
04:52 - Modification to the subwoofer box itself.




As stated - feel free to ask any further questions and if needed and we can arrange it, I'd be happy to help though video call on messenger
Also last but not least... This is a really easy job to do - Sit down with a episode of FRIENDS or whatever you like and just go through it.

Happy modifying!

Quite a bit after your post, but man this was awful nice of you to do.

You rock!

 

[Gt350procharged]

I just swapped the 10inch B&O on a 21 GT500 to a custom ported larger box with a 12inch Kicker Comp R ...........sounds better than the B&O but it does lack power....I may have to upgrade to an aftermarket amp.....lets see need to test it out more

https://store.audiodesignscg.com/product/2015-2019-mustang-subwoofer-box/

In my experience 12inch is the best size but porting the box is needed to get deeper bass

 

[Bassackwards]

I just swapped the 10inch B&O on a 21 GT500 to a custom ported larger box with a 12inch Kicker Comp R ...........sounds better than the B&O but it does lack power....I may have to upgrade to an aftermarket amp.....lets see need to test it out more

https://store.audiodesignscg.com/product/2015-2019-mustang-subwoofer-box/

In my experience 12inch is the best size but porting the box is needed to get deeper bass

Maybe it is the speaker. JBL recommends a .75 cf box for their Club 1224. I think that is what I'm going to use in a custom sealed box

 

[Clintro]

Finally did this today.... Best $80 upgrade ever

 

[TonyNJ]

Finally did this today.... Best $80 upgrade ever

You can really hear/feel the difference?

 

[Gallatyn]

Any idea where I can get the two white connectors that actually plug into the OEM B&O subwoofer? I don't know the exact technical name and/or part number in order to find them.

 

[Bitten in '69]

It is easier to just de-pin the factory connectors and use the wires.

 

[Gallatyn]

It is easier to just de-pin the factory connectors and use the wires.

Not quit sure if I totally understand. I destroyed one of the white connectors that plugs into one of the B&O subwoofers black connectors (that's solderd to the actural speaker) and I cut the wires flush with the other white connector (I didn't think I was going to be using them again). However, I want to put the original B&O subwoofer back in the enclosure for some testing purposes now that I have a different subwoofer in there (which I'll obviously have to take out in order to put the B&O back in).

 

[Bitten in '69]

Okay, I thought you were just trying to connect the factory wire to an aftermarket speaker.
For what you are doing I'd just get a wire plug connector. Solder one side to the speaker, and splice the other to the factory wires. You'll go nuts trying to find the OEM stuff.

 

[Gallatyn]

Okay, I thought you were just trying to connect the factory wire to an aftermarket speaker.
For what you are doing I'd just get a wire plug connector. Solder one side to the speaker, and splice the other to the factory wires. You'll go nuts trying to find the OEM stuff.

I'm definitely going nuts trying to find those connectors. The Pioneer sub does sound much better but there are some caveats that go along with that. I need to look at available solutions to be able to fine tune and control frequencies, cutoffs, power levels and signal delay for just the subwoofer. That way I can blend it into the mix that satisfies my ears. I did something similar with a device a long time ago in another car but for the whole system and not just the subwoofer. It had some DSP features in it too, I think.

 

[Clintro]

You can really hear/feel the difference?

Much tighter bass.... It feels and sounds different to me

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