If doing Koni, use the yellow, not the orange. The yellow is better built and will perform better. I ran the double adjustable fronts and a set of rears on my 03 Cobra. Much better than the OEM Bilsteins.
Just to build on Mags comment. When I brought my 350 home new from the dealer, it tram lined. After about a month or so of tolerating it, I took it to the shop I've used for 30 years. They found that the toe was kicked out on both sides and really out on the passenger side. That was from the...
Just to ad on. Use a good straight edge to check make sure they didn't warp the surface pounding out the studs.
Use a flat file to remove any burrs and you should be okay.
Check the hub for any wiggle side to side, up and down, or noise when turning. Their ham handed hammering could have caused...
Regarding painting the calipers. I decided that to do the best possible job, I would remove all 4 calipers and prep them. Based off of folks here and other places recommending the G2 product, that is what I went with. On their site, they sell sprayers for use with their products. Since I was...
Finally got it out of hibernation. Delayed due to the debacle of painting the calipers. Took it in and got the glass tinted by a local shop recommended by a friend. Completely professional and excellent results. 50% all around.
Before anyone tacks on something they will later regret... Tragically, it appears that the six men who died were a road crew fixing potholes on the bridge.
You won't regret going with 303 products. They have been around a long time, but are just now getting shelf space in stores. I used the protectant on the interior of my 03 Cobra, and their canvas cleaning and protectant on the convertible top. After 17 years, it still looked new.
Folks, just for clarification, a vehicle that has been registered by the dealer with the factory as a demo can be used for up to 5,000 miles. It is then sold as new.
The mileage may have changed over the years, my info is a bit dated. But, it used to be 5k for domestic, and 8k for imports.
Personally, I'd use a reverse drill bit. As it bites in, it might spin it out before you would need to use an ez-out.
PS - it is a Gurney flap named after the late great Dan Gurney.
Chris is a good guy. I went to him for the pulley and tune on my 03 Cobra. He also welded in the frame rail connectors.
Crap, thinking about it, that was just about 20 years ago...
With it being soft brass you can work it slowly with progressively larger bits. If you load the bit with grease, you can minimize the chance of shavings dropping in. If you get the brass thin enough it might break out with an ez-out.
Without getting into whether or not they are present on the OP's vehicle... Every one I've dealt with was riveted in place. A drill or grinder will take the heads off.
I learned as a kid to handle the heavy wheels on my Dad's Peterbuilt. Roll the tire up on a crowbar, and use the leverage to lift it. I've taught my kids the same way, and it works well for my son, since he owns a big tired 4x4.