Search results

I’ve completely built mine out, including the KDT953 and Kelltrac diff bushings. I’ve listed below what I’ve done, very minimal NVH, daily drives like a dream and handles like it’s on rails. I highly recommend the Kelltrac diff bushings, especially if you’re trying to stay low NVH/daily the car...

@Magony15 Maybe this is a long shot, but with looking at those last photos I uploaded, do you think there’s any way to insert a new KDT953 bushing in there without dropping the subframe? Just thinking since it’s already sagging enough from what I can tell to remove the bushing, and since the old...

You think this is something that couldn’t be done in my driveway and it’d be better to pay a shop? I have about $100 to my name after just going through the hardest financial season of my life right now, so if I need a shop it’s going to be sitting for a while. Here’s another look I just got at it.

Thank you for your input, I’ll have to check to see if the bolt snapped, if it’s cross threaded is that just putting in new KDT953 and bolt or would there be team damage? Also most importantly, how difficult of a job do you think this is in my driveway?

Hey y’all, not necessarily looking for any specific advice at this exact moment, just throwing my situation out there and updating as things go along. If anyone has any advice or insight though I’m very much so grateful. I was driving my car the other day (windows down, no music) and heard a...

I used to keep my custom built Mustang garaged with several other cars, life changed, now it’s just my Mustang being street parked and used daily for work deliveries. In Los Angeles too, so you already know it’s crazy here. One thing I am wondering is how to attach it when I have windshield tint.

Hey y’all, I found someone who threw a rod from beating hard on their HPP Ecoboost. They’re only selling the turbo, and I was going to buy it from them to install on my Mustang as I already have every other possible bolt-on mod and don’t want a Big turbo. I'm assuming the turbo could...

I’ve gone through three, two 8” (3.3 & 3.4) and now on a 8” with NAV (3.4), the previous ones stopped working and anytime AA or ACP would stop working if you hold down the “power” and “skip forward” the head unit restarts and it works again. Have to reset audio settings after though in my...

Very cool and I’m super interested, but that price just doesn’t make sense.

What PSI is it?

It’s so funny seeing this thread, I made this thread shortly after I got my Mustang in 2020. I’ve since completely overhauled the entire car. Full OEM spec GT500 body, gutted and swapped in an authentic Shelby Super Snake interior, rebuilt the entire suspension and full bolt on built the engine...

You need the Shaker Pro amp, the 9 speaker amp doesn’t have the channel for the sub. I got mine for about $100 used and it was a simple plug and play. You should then be good to go.

Hey, you have to make sure you have the wiring plug on the vehicle harness. Mine had it, it’s located behind the trunk liner where the sub would go. You then need to get the connector from that plug to the sub, and of course the sub and mount. It won’t work without the Shaker Pro amp though...

What would the best camber bolt be to get my alignment dialed in? Not worried about price, just don’t want to go camber plates as it seems unnecessary and I’ve heard of NVH with the plates.

Okay cool, I just bought the tires and the last ones had lots of outside tread and then cord showing on the inside. Maybe it was from toe on the alignment, I want to be able to avoid that this time. Can’t rotate the tires either since they’re stanced.

Hey, I fully built my suspension and the front has the minimum drop BMR springs while rear is stock. I had the car aligned and I’m not sure if I should consider camber bolts, I daily drive my car with some spirited driving at times, but have never tracked it. Not sure if it matters but it’s...

I’ve already looked through all the forums I could find before making this thread, this is another thread where they compared the 15-17 to the 18+ I think the main thing I’m running into now is this, there’s a IAT sensor on the Ecoboost intake lid, there appears to be nothing on the V6 lid...

I get an occasional rattle too, sometimes goes days with no noise and other times makes it consistently. Already rebuilt (literally) the entire suspension and bushings. So I’m excited to see what the cause of yours is and if it fixes mine too

From what I’ve seen across threads and forums is the bottom part of the filter box is the same so the I4/V6/V8 lids are all interchangeable, it’s just making it properly connects to the intake tube.

Hey everyone, I have full bolt ons and tuned my 2.3, the only thing I haven’t touched is the intake. This has been for two reasons, first I don’t want to have excessive turbo noise, and secondly after watching some YouTube videos (think it was project farm) where they tested the filtration...