B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[Matthewstorm]

Is it OK to install a 2ohm sub?

Sponsored

 

[FreePenguin]

Is it OK to install a 2ohm sub?

2ohm is what you want

 

[Gregs24]

Is it OK to install a 2ohm sub?

2ohm is what you want

OEM is dual voice coil 4 ohm

If you run a dual voice coil 2 ohm there is a risk of overheating the amplifier

Plenty of dual voice coil 4 ohm speakers to choose from at all sorts of different budgets. See post #19

B&O 10" sub replacement guide | Page 2 | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

 

[Mestisoboy]

The 10" OEM sub in the B&O equipped cars is generously described as low quality ! It is nothing more than a $12 paper cone speaker and is a huge weak link in the standard system with a horrible boomy muddy bass that overwhelms everything else. I have played around with settings and added polyfill but it is still pretty woeful.

Replacement using the original OEM box is the obvious solution that I wanted to try to main as near original look as possible. The 10" sub enclosure is both bigger and different shaped to the Shaker system in pre 2019 cars so the first think was to define the space available. The speaker orifice is 230mm which is pretty standard for a 10" sub but be aware that some speakers are bigger and modifying the hole would be a pain. The maximum depth is 146mm although it would be easy to achieve 160mm by shaving off some ribbing internally. The maximum external diameter (trim ring) is 266mm if you want to fit inside the ridges (see later) or about 275mm if you are happy to dremel them off. Nothing bigger than that will fit the OEM box which does rule out some speakers without a spacer which would be a fiddle.

I settled on the Pioneer TS-A250D4 10" subwoofer (TS-A100D4 in the US). This will fit the box almost perfectly, is dual voice coil, 4 ohm and has a relatively low sensitivity of 77dB which helps to overcome the bass heavy settings Ford use. At this point I should say I am NOT looking for a thumping bass but a musical well controlled base. In the UK this is around £65 so is not an expensive speaker. There are very few other speakers that will fit this box without significant modification so be warned - it is not as easy a swap out as with the 8" box in the Shaker system.

First picture of the woeful OEM sub - seriously Ford why bother !

Next the Pioneer TS-A250D4 10" subwoofer which at least looks half decent !

Remove the trim ring - you will not need it. Remove the small lug on the OEM box as it gets in the way - this is the only thing you need to remove.

If you offer up the speaker to the enclosure you will find the holes are almost in the right place but not quite. I drilled holes just to the inside of the originals.

Remove the plugs from the original wires and strip back to expose the metal. The black and purple wires are negative, the green and yellow wires are positive. I added the sealing strip to the enclosure rather than the speaker because it is a lot easier.

Once all connected and polyfill added I fitted the speaker with two of the screws directly - I did it this way to get a good seal with the box. Leave the others for the moment.

There is enough adjustment to then use the new fitting screws with the OEM grille for the remaining 4 screw holes. The OEM screws will not fit.

Finally refit the trim ring (that you probably broke when you removed the original speaker) and refit in the car.

So finally how does it sound ? Night and day better ! The bass is now controlled and tight as well as not overpowering and at the same time the OEM look is retained.

So the two sets of wires connect to either set of posts on the Pioneer sub as long as they're + to + and - to -?
Thanks

 

[FreePenguin]

OEM is dual voice coil 4 ohm

If you run a dual voice coil 2 ohm there is a risk of overheating the amplifier

Plenty of dual voice coil 4 ohm speakers to choose from at all sorts of different budgets. See post #19

B&O 10" sub replacement guide | Page 2 | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

I meant it needs to be wired for 2ohm correct? Dvc coils makes it 2 ohm.

i could be confused
I think 15-17 was 2ohm

 

[NC252]

Big thanks to the OP for this post. I just completed step by step in my GT 500 and everything was to the point. The pioneer sounds way better than the stock.

 

[Polski]

I can confirm that the Pioneer sounds really good comparing to the OEM sub. Easy installation.

 

[Mestisoboy]

I can confirm that the Pioneer sounds really good comparing to the OEM sub. Easy installation.

Does it matter which pair of wires go to which pair of posts?

 

[Gregs24]

So the two sets of wires connect to either set of posts on the Pioneer sub as long as they're + to + and - to -?
Thanks

Yes

 

[Gregs24]

Does it matter which pair of wires go to which pair of posts?

No

 

[Mestisoboy]

Yes

Thanks.
Pioneer Sub going in the cart on Amazon.
My Shaker 1000 in my 08 GT has way more punch than this B&O system.

 

[FreePenguin]

Thanks.
Pioneer Sub going in the cart on Amazon.
My Shaker 1000 in my 08 GT has way more punch than this B&O system.

Think it’s partly due to the equalizer too. There’s bass roll off that hits pretty hard after 18 volume to me

 

[gpierce]

I meant it needs to be wired for 2ohm correct? Dvc coils makes it 2 ohm.

i could be confused
I think 15-17 was 2ohm

Each coil of the factory sub and the pioneer in this thread is 4ohm. So no, having 2 coils does not make the speaker 2ohm. And no, using a 4ohm dvc sub should not be “wired for 2ohm”

 

[FreePenguin]

All my JL audio subs are double voice coil, I wire them to 2 ohms. Works. 4 leads, tie two blacks together and two reds together and each red and black wire go In amp.

what am I missing here

 

[m3incorp]

I would have to say that is incorrect. There are many many many dual 4 ohm voice coils subs wired to a 2 ohm configurations. The method of wiring is what brings the dual 4ohms down to 2 ohms.

The stock B&O sub is wired to present a 2 ohm load.

Each coil of the factory sub and the pioneer in this thread is 4ohm. So no, having 2 coils does not make the speaker 2ohm. And no, using a 4ohm dvc sub should not be “wired for 2ohm”

Sponsored