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Salty
Well-Known Member
That is correct! I just checked lol. I should be getting the speaker by March 1st.I believe (if Walmart www is correct) you got the last one
I am re-reading all the steps and for some reason I am not understanding how those screws go in. I assume you bolt down the 2 screws that do fit and use self tapping screws for the rest and drill into a new spot? Wouldn't that create 1 big hole with the existing hole?
Polski
Well-Known Member
I will think about it when I have everything on my desk, but I am thinking that I will drill holes in the speaker to make them oval shaped and that will make them fit perfectly in the OEm holes. But again, once I have the speaker, I will make it happen
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Salty
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a plan. I'm probably overthinking it. No point of stressing until it comes. I'm interested to see how you set it up. Please take some pictures.I will think about it when I have everything on my desk, but I am thinking that I will drill holes in the speaker to make them oval shaped and that will make them fit perfectly in the OEm holes. But again, once I have the speaker, I will make it happen
Bitten in '69
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For mounting the sub, take a look at my suggestion, pg. 13 #184. It was quick, easy and went together without any issues. The original screws were all used.
Polski
Well-Known Member
It is a simple installation so you will be fine, don't overthink it. Few screws, plastic covers etc.
I will post some photos once I am done and I will share if it sounds better.
Salty
Well-Known Member
Awesome. I guess I just need to see the speaker for my self.
I read post 184 and to be honest I didn't understand the process much. I'm not sure how that all works. I guess I cant envision it in my head. Either way I'm sure ill figure it out regardless.
Elp_jc
Well-Known Member
The best way to install it is to use ALL existing holes, since they bite into A LOT more plastic than if you drill somewhere else. And no, you can't make the holes 'oval'; you need to cut out the metal all the way out, since the end of the speaker is smack in the middle of the stock holes. This is easy to do, but there could be a little bit of play on the speaker, which will only be clamped down by the stock grille on top of the sub. So what I did was instead of cutting the plastic tab at 12 o'clock on the stock enclosure, I ground the sub with the shape of the tab, and it fit with absolutely zero play. Then, the stock screws only have to clamp down on the speaker, which is not an issue. But if there's play, even a little bit, such a heavy sub could crack the plastic over time. So I suggest either doing what I did, or drilling extra holes like the OP did to secure the sub from lateral movement. My way is the better way IMO, since you don't modify the stock enclosure in any way, but it's not a big deal. It definitely takes longer, since there's trial and error involved, plus a Dremel AND a manual square or triangular file to cut the metal in the shape of the top tab. Once you get the sub you'll know what I'm talking about
. Oh, and remember not to cut the wires, or you'd have a hell of a time connecting them. It was challenging even with the stock wire terminals in place. Hope this helps.Sponsored
Polski
Well-Known Member
Yes, your way makes sense and I also want to use the factory holes, but I will see what I can do when I have everything out and can fit the speaker in. I will definitely take some photos and share my installation experience.The best way to install it is to use ALL existing holes, since they bite into A LOT more plastic than if you drill somewhere else. And no, you can't make the holes 'oval'; you need to cut out the metal all the way out, since the end of the speaker is smack in the middle of the stock holes. This is easy to do, but there could be a little bit of play on the speaker, which will only be clamped down by the stock grille on top of the sub. So what I did was instead of cutting the plastic tab at 12 o'clock on the stock enclosure, I ground the sub with the shape of the tab, and it fit with absolutely zero play. Then, the stock screws only have to clamp down on the speaker, which is not an issue. But if there's play, even a little bit, such a heavy sub could crack the plastic over time. So I suggest either doing what I did, or drilling extra holes like the OP did to secure the sub from lateral movement. My way is the better way IMO, since you don't modify the stock enclosure in any way, but it's not a big deal. It definitely takes longer, since there's trial and error involved, plus a Dremel AND a manual square or triangular file to cut the metal in the shape of the top tab. Once you get the sub you'll know what I'm talking about
And, Walmarts website has 1 left I see now... But, it's $79... :/
I wonder if mine will ship or they will cancel...
Polski
Well-Known Member
If not, I will buy it somewhere else. I am all set to get my sub a little better than it is, because I like good music when I am on the highway. Local roads I am playing Roush Catback Soundtrack, and that does not need an upgrade