B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[Mestisoboy]

Not sure how you can tell it will go to 30 without distortion when it stops at 26 !

Setting the maximum volume at a level that does not distort is entirely sensible.

Yeah, if you set all the sliders to 0.

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[Gregs24]

Yeah, if you set all the sliders to 0.

I have no idea what you are on about ???

 

[Calisp]

A big thank you to Gregs24 who started this thread and provided accurate and helpful information! I decided not to hack up the B&O sub enclosure. Instead, I found a cheap cutting board at Walmart that is the same thickness as the plastic ridges/tabs/protrusions that are around the edge of the original speaker mounting surface. Last evening I cut an adapter ring that gives me a mounting surface for a Rockford Fosgate R2SD4-10. Nice thing is this resulted in the sub surround sitting flush with the outer edge of the enclosure depth. I try and post a pic of the final intall.

 

[Calisp]

I think it looks pretty good. One screw short! I would give the sound a 6 out of 10. Going to add an amp and sub.

 

[FreePenguin]

I think it looks pretty good. One screw short! I would give the sound a 6 out of 10. Going to add an amp and sub.

I’d amp that one, see how it sounds first
With proper power it may sound 8/10

 

[Xander33]

Hey All,

somehow my post got lost in the middle of thread so I figured I’d update. I have the pioneer sub, free to someone who’d like it and is local to CT to pick up or willing to cover shipping. I bought a month or two back, never used and have decided to go full custom audio build. Happy to give the pioneer to someone who will appreciate it.

 

[Spydrbutt]

Hey All,

somehow my post got lost in the middle of thread so I figured I’d update. I have the pioneer sub, free to someone who’d like it and is local to CT to pick up or willing to cover shipping. I bought a month or two back, never used and have decided to go full custom audio build. Happy to give the pioneer to someone who will appreciate it.

Hi Jake, is the sub still available?

 

[Corona2488]

honestly, even if you tossed this subwoofer in the stock enclosure, why not spend just another 100-200 bucks for a 500 watt amp, and run power to it? can still use stock signal wires. your are talking an hour of work. imo. worth it.

I have little experience putting in amps but curious how to wire in an aftermarket amp to power a sub for the 19 and later models with the 12 speaker b&o. From my understanding if I get an amp with auto on feature I won’t need to run the remote wire and I know I have to hook to battery and ground but what about the signal inputs that go to the amp?

 

[Matthewstorm]

I have little experience putting in amps but curious how to wire in an aftermarket amp to power a sub for the 19 and later models with the 12 speaker b&o. From my understanding if I get an amp with auto on feature I won’t need to run the remote wire and I know I have to hook to battery and ground but what about the signal inputs that go to the amp?

Dude, go to a sound shop.

 

[Calisp]

That's what I did. Also, I spliced into the 4 wires in the B&O enclosure to get the high input signal. 4 wires because the B&O sub has 2 voice coils. I combined the 2 positives into 1, and 2 negatives into one, to connect a single voice coil sub.

 

[m3incorp]

@corona Make sure you grab the signal from the B&O subwoofer wires. The rear speakers don't carry a full signal.

I assume you know to run at least a 4 gauge cable from the battery and use appropriate fuse close to where you pull the power from...You can use either the battery or the positive bolts from the fuse box under the hood. There is bolt between the seats in the trunk that you can grab your ground from.

The amp will determine if you have an auto-on and don't need to run a remote. I ran a remote wire to fuse #23 in the passenger compartment for remote turn on...that way I don't get any thumps on turn on or turn off and everything shuts off when I open the doors....unless I am in accessory mode. Do yourself a favor and buy an amp that allows for both high level signals and low level signals....otherwise you will need to buy a LOC to convert. Amps I tend to use are JL Audio and Rockford Fosgates. Of course there are many others out there, but do the research first and you will know what works with what.

What subwoofer/enclosure are you considering? I am sure it will depend on how much and how deep you want your bass to be.

 

[Corona2488]

Make sure you grab the signal from the B&O subwoofer wires. The rear speakers don't carry a full signal.

Ok so the 2 positive and 2 negative from the 4 pin connector I just need to use those for a speaker-rca conversion cable for input to amp. And if I remember correctly I would switch it to hi for input level?

 

[m3incorp]

Some amps do the high/low switching for you. Many of them will accept those bare wires that you will run from the current subwoofer connector and do the switching automatically. But yes you need to get the signal from the 4 wires in the connector. The proper color wires to connect together have been posted on here a few times.

Ok so the 2 positive and 2 negative from the 4 pin connector I just need to use those for a speaker-rca conversion cable for input to amp. And if I remember correctly I would switch it to hi for input level?

 

[Corona2488]

@corona Make sure you grab the signal from the B&O subwoofer wires. The rear speakers don't carry a full signal.

I assume you know to run at least a 4 gauge cable from the battery and use appropriate fuse close to where you pull the power from...You can use either the battery or the positive bolts from the fuse box under the hood. There is bolt between the seats in the trunk that you can grab your ground from.

The amp will determine if you have an auto-on and don't need to run a remote. I ran a remote wire to fuse #23 in the passenger compartment for remote turn on...that way I don't get any thumps on turn on or turn off and everything shuts off when I open the doors....unless I am in accessory mode. Do yourself a favor and buy an amp that allows for both high level signals and low level signals....otherwise you will need to buy a LOC to convert. Amps I tend to use are JL Audio and Rockford Fosgates. Of course there are many others out there, but do the research first and you will know what works with what.

What subwoofer/enclosure are you considering? I am sure it will depend on how much and how deep you want your bass to be.

Yea I know about the power wire and all that just wasn’t sure about signal wires mostly. Currently I already have an alpine type r 4ohm DVC sub and was thinking about getting the alpine R-A75M since it’s basically made to run their subs as a perfect match. It says if you use the speaker to rca conversion cables you shouldn’t need to use the remote wire since it has auto sensing. For now I just ordered a box off crutchfield. May look to do something more custom later on.

 

[m3incorp]

Sounds like a solid plan. It isn't hard to wire everything up. If you run into a snag, hit me up on PM and I can help you out with close up pics or whatever you might need. Easiest way I found to run the power wire was to take off the passenger front wheel and remove enough of the under fender cover to run the wire to the grommet leading into the passenger compartment.

Yea I know about the power wire and all that just wasn’t sure about signal wires mostly. Currently I already have an alpine type r 4ohm DVC sub and was thinking about getting the alpine R-A75M since it’s basically made to run their subs as a perfect match. It says if you use the speaker to rca conversion cables you shouldn’t need to use the remote wire since it has auto sensing. For now I just ordered a box off crutchfield. May look to do something more custom later on.

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