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B&O 10" sub replacement guide

s1ms

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I installed the Dayton RSS265HO-44 in my 20 convertible, no mods to then enclosure, and I'm just going to put a waffle grill over the top of it. I did use a gasket on the back of the sub as it does not fit fully between the ridges, nor does the basket fit in the hole unless it is cut. But I'm happy:)
Greg, did you just go straight in with woodscrews and that's it? Didn't add any extra support at the back of the enclosure front wall?
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gpierce

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Greg, did you just go straight in with woodscrews and that's it? Didn't add any extra support at the back of the enclosure front wall?
Yes, no other support. It’s plenty tough enough.
 

geep81

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Thanks for this guide. I am really happy with the outcome. I bought the same Pioneer speaker as OP and it really sounds noticeably nicer now.
 

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06nine

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Excellent tutorial.
The heat gun recommendation was a lifesaver. The only suggestions I would offer is to be real careful with the heat gun so as not to melt anything-I nearly did. Also with respect to the new holes: after centering the sub and drilling those two holes to mount it directly to the box, be certain to center the trim ring, drill a hole and insert a screw (I added a small washer to keep each screw above the trim ring) being mindful of keeping everything centered. I found that doing one at time allowed me to maintaining that important centering.
Much better sound from the Pioneer sub mentioned at the beginning, but I’m now tempted to go down that rabbit hole labeled “more power”...
 

mikes2017gt

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Uh oh. You got bit by the bug, @06nine . :D This week: Upgraded factory sub. Next week: Two 12's in a ported box on a 1kW amp.
 

06nine

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Uh oh. You got bit by the bug, @06nine . :D This week: Upgraded factory sub. Next week: Two 12's in a ported box on a 1kW amp.
...speaking of the bug:
when I do decide to install an aftermarket amp for the new sub, where do I source the connection to turn the amp on? It’s been a long time since I’ve wired an amp but I do remember the positive connection with an inline fuse and the ground concerns. And I do hope this request isn’t construed as sidetracking this thread-It seems to me to be a logical progression of it...
NM- I found it. Blue/white wire located in the trunk by the right rear speaker.
 
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mikes2017gt

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You have two options for a turn on signal. One is easy and the other isn't. There is a 6-volt turn on signal in the brown molex plug that connects to the stock amp.

It's the blue wire with the green stripe in this pic.
IMG_20200922_143948890.jpg


Supposedly there is also one in the rear speaker harness, but I've never found it and it doesn't make sense that it would be there in a non-factory-subwoofer-equipped car. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me. Even if you used this signal, it's only 6volts, so you'd need to use a relay or a PAC TR-4 (tiny relay) to switch a 12v signal.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR-4-Rem...&qid=1604286620&sprefix=pac+tr,aps,175&sr=8-1

You could tap the power wire you'd be running from the battery for that +12v signal.

The far easier idea is to use an amplifier that has "signal sense." The JL Audio XD amps have it, just as an example. So do many other brands/models. When the amp senses positive voltage at the speaker-level inputs, it turns itself on. There's a 1 or 2 second delay, but that doesn't matter. I used this method back when I installed my amp and Stealthbox. Worked great, every time.
 

m3incorp

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You can also run the remote turn-on wire up to the fuse box in passenger footwell, as many of us have done. Takes about 10 minutes.
 

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FreePenguin

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You can also run the remote turn-on wire up to the fuse box in passenger footwell, as many of us have done. Takes about 10 minutes.
This was best for me. I bought a 20 dollar micro fuse tap for my 500 JL amp
 

06nine

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You have two options for a turn on signal. One is easy and the other isn't. There is a 6-volt turn on signal in the brown molex plug that connects to the stock amp.

It's the blue wire with the green stripe in this pic.
IMG_20200922_143948890.jpg


Supposedly there is also one in the rear speaker harness, but I've never found it and it doesn't make sense that it would be there in a non-factory-subwoofer-equipped car. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me. Even if you used this signal, it's only 6volts, so you'd need to use a relay or a PAC TR-4 (tiny relay) to switch a 12v signal.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR-4-Remote-Turn-on-Module/dp/B0002J22BE/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1B7KFB11PIRZV&dchild=1&keywords=pac+tr4&qid=1604286620&sprefix=pac+tr,aps,175&sr=8-1

You could tap the power wire you'd be running from the battery for that +12v signal.

The far easier idea is to use an amplifier that has "signal sense." The JL Audio XD amps have it, just as an example. So do many other brands/models. When the amp senses positive voltage at the speaker-level inputs, it turns itself on. There's a 1 or 2 second delay, but that doesn't matter. I used this method back when I installed my amp and Stealthbox. Worked great, every time.
Thank you!
 

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m3incorp

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Yes, but without the trim ring. E6000 clear adhesive will hold two pieces of steel together......ok, kidding on that, but is a really strong adhesive that I use for a lot of projects.

Did you manage to reinstall OEM grille over JL 10W1V3-4 Sub?
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