B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[Elp_jc]

Same thing happened to me when removing sub to install Poly-Fil, and just left it off. Shaved all posts (broken or not) smooth, and painted the bolts. Unless you knew the ring was there, it passes for stock now. Need to revise the thread again, to decide if I order the Pioneer or not .

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[D Bergstrom]

Thanks for taking the time to post this. Found the Pioneer sub on Ebay for $70, figure for that price, might a well give it a try. I usually buy most of my car audio stuff from Crutchfield, but was surprised they did not carry the exact Pioneer sub on their website, so Ebay it is! Will report back once I get it installed and give it a listen.

Thanks,

Doug

 

[Dave2017GT]

I have to say that the most disappointing thing about my 2019 GT is the B&O sound system. Its not even close to as good as the Shaker system. Just really really weak sound.

 

[Gregs24]

I have to say that the most disappointing thing about my 2019 GT is the B&O sound system. Its not even close to as good as the Shaker system. Just really really weak sound.

Well go to page one of this thread to fix it !

 

[Pero]

I ordered this one (TS-D10D4).
It's on the way.

 

[barkingspud]

Well go to page one of this thread to fix it !

I did and what a difference! The Bass is actually tight and no longer booming. I actually EQ'd the bass up a tad.

 

[TRPCANA]

does anyone have any experience with the JL audio stealthbox replacement? I ordered one for my 2020 with B&O and the connections are not plug and play at all and the install manual makes no mention of this. The factory connection of the B&O is a 4 pin style pack connector whereas the JL box only has a traditional positive and negative terminal on the back.

 

[Gregs24]

I did and what a difference! The Bass is actually tight and no longer booming. I actually EQ'd the bass up a tad.

It is by far the cheapest way of improving the audio as well as simple. Why Ford don't spend an extra $50 and put a half decent sub in I don't know.

 

[gpierce]

does anyone have any experience with the JL audio stealthbox replacement? I ordered one for my 2020 with B&O and the connections are not plug and play at all and the install manual makes no mention of this. The factory connection of the B&O is a 4 pin style pack connector whereas the JL box only has a traditional positive and negative terminal on the back.

Not directly, but looking at the instructions they provide it seems to me like they have designed this to use an external amplifier and not connect to the factory sub connection. It says its wired for 2ohm which means the voice coils inside are wired together. If you want to use the factory amp that it's looks like you need to cut the harness.

 

[Elp_jc]

I ordered this one (TS-D10D4).

Is it a dual-voice coil?

As far as the connector, no way I'd cut any factory wires, but in this case, I don't mind cutting the harness inside the sub box, since you could replace it, if required. But I wouldn't do anything to the one that connects to the sub box. But if somebody wants to replace the sub box, then I'd find the mating connector to avoid messing with the factory harness.

 

[Pero]

Is it a dual-voice coil?

As far as the connector, no way I'd cut any factory wires, but in this case, I don't mind cutting the harness inside the sub box, since you could replace it, if required. But I wouldn't do anything to the one that connects to the sub box. But if somebody wants to replace the sub box, then I'd find the mating connector to avoid messing with the factory harness.

Yes, Pioneer TS-D10D4 is dual voice coil (D=dual, 4=4 Ohm each coil).

I will cut off OEM connectors inside the box and connect bare wires to speaker terminals.
Outside connector will stay untouched.
I will save OEM connectors with OEM Sub for potential future use.

 

[Gregs24]

Yes, Pioneer TS-D10D4 is dual voice coil (D=dual, 4=4 Ohm each coil).

I will cut off OEM connectors inside the box and connect bare wires to speaker terminals.
Outside connector will stay untouched.
I will save OEM connectors with OEM Sub for potential future use.

The only thing I could see as a use for the OEM sub would be to light a fire ?

 

[Elp_jc]

Yes, Pioneer TS-D10D4 is dual voice coil (D=dual, 4=4 Ohm each coil).

Thanks. So what's the difference between the TS-D10D4 and the 'original' TS-A250D4? I actually like yours better, since it has a more inconspicuous 'Pioneer' logo, hence my questions. Which is better for the stock amplifier? Are they identical in dimensions? Thx.

 

[Pero]

The only thing I could see as a use for the OEM sub would be to light a fire ?

I don't know. I can't discard working things.
Maybe I will not need it again. But it could happen somebody else will.
I would gladly sell or even give it to somebody who blown his own factory sub but he has no intention to upgrade to something non-OEM.

 

[Pero]

Thanks. So what's the difference between the TS-D10D4 and the 'original' TS-A250D4? I actually like yours better, since it has a more inconspicuous 'Pioneer' logo, hence my questions. Which is better for the stock amplifier? Are they identical in dimensions? Thx.

Pioneer D speakers series is a bit more advanced then A speakers series.
Is there any real difference in sound, you have to discover yourself. There are differences from ear to ear and different expectations, also.

On the paper D10 has a bit better characteristics then A250.
- Sensitivity: 76 dB against 74 dB,
- Cone: Aramid Fiber Interlaced Injection Molded Polypropylene vs Glass fiber and mica reinforced Injection Molded Polypropylene,
- a bit heavier magnet,
- better power handling: 500W against 400W,(don't know the power of stock amp anyway),
But I never try any of them on stock amp. I just (blindly?) believe extra bucks will do some job.
They are practically identical in dimensions.
Try to find some more detailed specifications in attached documents.

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