A/C Evaporator Factory Defect

[runpony]

I have a 2017 S550. Mileage 13K. Bought it early 2018, so still under warranty. Recently turned on AC, and found out it only blows warm air. Took it into the dealer today, waiting to see what the problem is.

Dealer said there was no leak, so they just replaced the evaporator according to the well-known Ford bulletin. Job took 24 hours. Got my car back today, AC cold again. Glad that it is still under the 3 year warranty.

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[Elp_jc]

Quick question for those in the know: Do you think my Aug-19 built 2019 Bullitt still has that potential defect? Just curious. I use A/C for many months here in hot TX... but also not at all for several months in winter as well. Wonder what the issue is. If it's lack of use, maybe cycling it once a month (or sooner?) might help? Thank you for your input .

 

[GT Pony]

Quick question for those in the know: Do you think my Aug-19 built 2019 Bullitt still has that potential defect? Just curious. I use A/C for many months here in hot TX... but also not at all for several months in winter as well. Wonder what the issue is. If it's lack of use, maybe cycling it once a month (or sooner?) might help? Thank you for your input .

I would think your car has the latest version of the A/C evaporator. It does seem that the more the A/C is used, the more likely the evaporator can fail. My theory (without any proof) is that a welded joint cracks from the thermal cycling of the evaporator core. Could be a material thing, and/or bad or brittle welds ... just a theory, and obviously some kind of leak path has to occur for it to leak.

It's a good idea to run the A/C once and awhile (like 15 min every couple weeks) in the winter time to keep the compressor in shape, that's what I've heard anyway.

 

[brotherbean]

I apologize if this has been answered 1000 times already, but I believe my 2015 has started showing signs of this issue - occasionally it will blow hot air for several minutes after turning on the A/C or after starting the car, but eventually it does blow cold. Sound familiar?

I'm getting ready to take it into the dealer with fingers crossed as I still have almost exactly 1,000 miles left on the CPO 12 mo/12k mile warranty and I'm hopeful that this issue would be covered.

 

[GT Pony]

I apologize if this has been answered 1000 times already, but I believe my 2015 has started showing signs of this issue - occasionally it will blow hot air for several minutes after turning on the A/C or after starting the car, but eventually it does blow cold. Sound familiar?

I'm getting ready to take it into the dealer with fingers crossed as I still have almost exactly 1,000 miles left on the CPO 12 mo/12k mile warranty and I'm hopeful that this issue would be covered.

Another symptom is that the A/C vent on the dash left side of the steering wheel will always be warmer air than the other dash vents. Sign that the refrigerant is low.

 

[brotherbean]

Another symptom is that the A/C vent on the dash left side of the steering wheel will always be warmer air than the other dash vents. Sign that the refrigerant is low.

Hmm, I haven’t noticed that so far. All vents seem to be outputting the same. Just went out to the garage and started it after letting it sit for a couple of hours, blew cool (but not cold) air immediately. It doesn’t usually get cold until I’ve driven for a minute or two, so that might not be indicative of anything.

At any rate I suppose I should make an appointment at the dealer since I’m so close to the end of warranty anyway.

 

[Freedom]

My AC would sometimes make a small hissing noise. Today, it was pretty loud sounded from the passenger floor side. Also noticed colder air from the passenger side and its luke warm from the driver side. I think I've fallen as well.

 

[Emilbadal]

Today I experienced something odd that I didn’t know could happen. The outside temp was around 95, and I noticed that the AC was not cooling down the cabin. So I lowered the temp to LO, and things got worse and worse. I told myself here we go evaporator is going out. So I decided to turn off the A/C and just use the blower. So after 10mins. I decided to give it a try again, I turned on the A/C and it started to cool the cabin really good and for the next 45mins it just worked as it should. I’m kinda confused, does anyone have any idea what might be the reason? Oh btw, my car has 4” to 8” sync3 conversion.

 

[fatbillybob]

Could be failed core letting moisture in that freezes in expansion valve cause no ac. Then when no use it unfreezes then you get cooling when turn on.

 

[Emilbadal]

That kinda make sense, there could be bunch of reasons that expansion valve freeze. I have to check the refrigerant pressure first, the low side gets cool but not cold..might need to recharge. Would you recommend to get one of those refrigerant canisters and try to recharge with that first and see if it will hold up or that just waste of money?

 

[fatbillybob]

What you do is put gauges on it and see where you are. Even the oldest 2015 should not need a charge or be leaking. A leak means something broken...like core or failed compressor etc. Can be anything

 

[Emilbadal]

This Evap core is not only a Mustang thing. My brother had to have two of the company f150 evap cores changed with the same defect... it's a Ford multiple car issue ( the one's that share the same part)

 

[Jimayy]

Had this problem now. My 2016 Ecoboost got warm air on one side, cold the other. Did a pro AC charge up, I was cold air for about one week. And then it all went hot. Need AC in Texas. Checked out the TSB 18-2256 and the forums. I took the car to the dealership, they charged me $139 for diagnostic fee to tell me the core was leaking. "Evaporator Core and High and Low Side service port valves leaking".
Only video I seen was more of slideshow then step-by-step, and it's clear it's quite intensive.

Wanted $2,378 to repair it. Just crazy. The parts on the TSB added up to around $200. Seems like they're quoting me pretty high. One dealer said the parts alone was $937, are they quoting for the whole climate control assembly? Crazy. I have 72,000 miles on it, and had long lost the warranty so it's a bummer. I'll see if I can find a shop to quote just the work as outline by the TSB and see if it's more reasonable. I was looking at around the $1500 for the work.

much saddness.

 

[Rod Schneider]

$937 sounds about right for the entire climate control assembly. For a long time, that was the only way to do it because the evaporator core was considered "non-servicable". Apparently, your dealer is not up to date on the TSB for this procedure. The labor portion will at least be the same, possibly a little higher since it does take some time to disassemble and reassemble the climate control assembly. It's not too bad of a job if the factory manual is followed. You do have to get under the car to remove the shift cable (automatic trans only) and drain the coolant. One of the HVAC housing bolts that goes through the firewall on the driver's side of the car is also easier to reach from underneath. I have a lift, so i'm a little spoiled.....

 

[CrashOverride]

You may want to try a good stop leak like this. If you have a slow leak (Small hole) this works pretty well - check the reviews. I used this for mine a few days ago and it is still holding. Not as good as replacing the evap, but it's about $2000 cheaper.

This stuff is a lot better than the interdynamics stop leak junk on the shelf at walmart.

If you are completely empty though, you should get yourself a vacuum pump ($80) and a manifold gauge set ($50) and pump down the system before trying the stop leak. If you are in a humid area, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the dryer/accumulator as well (Around $25 I think).

The stop leak can specifies the acceptable vacuum loss, and in my case I could hold 29" Hg for about half an hour but overnight, there would be no more vacuum. Based on that, I was a good candidate for it working.

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