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80mph + feels really floaty still

NightmareMoon

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First check the wheel hubs for play. Sketchy side to side movement is a common issue when the hubs go bad (usually its a rear hub) and if you hit something that could easily be the case. Besides they dont last forever.

Get an alignment (at a good shop, not the dealership or a high volume chain) with very very slight toe in front and correct toe in at the rear.

If its still feeling side to side floaty… time for shocks.
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GrabberBargeCaptain

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It's good that you posted this. I feel differently, but it's good to point out that people have very different standards as far as ride and handling goes.

When I purchased my 2017 PP1, stock it felt to me like an old school Cadillac. Way too soft, boaty and floating all over (body motions are excessive IMO and not controlled by the springs and shocks). I felt like if I accelerated in a turn the front tires were unloaded too much causing excessive understeer. And when I braked the nose seemed to dive way too much causing the rear tires to be unloaded.

Now, you have to consider that immediately before the PP1, I owned a 2004 Z06. And before that a 2016 GT350. The Z06 has a very soft and compliant ride, but it weighs 600 lbs less than an S550 and has a significantly lower CoG. Body motions are small in that car. The GT350 has a relatively firm ride and body motions are well controlled. I also owned a Fiesta ST as my daily/winter car, and it had a much stiffer ride than the GT350.

So my frame of reference is coming from much sportier cars that are built for good handling (comparitively). The GR86 I owned and my current Camaro LT1 also have much stiffer suspension than my PP1 Mustang GT did.
I think i've commented on your post re: GR86 before since you were helpful to me in using it as a reference before i modded my Mustang suspension (i had a 2013 FR-S 2 cars ago) and even with the FRP track handling pack, it's still softer than a stock FR-S. That's not necessary a bad thing, as that car had a tendency to skip around in the rear on back roads, dampers were tuned too stiff to make it feel sportier. Felt great on smooth back roads but not on every day expansion joints and broken pavement. Goes without saying that over the years, those cars were softened up in terms of spring rates and dampers.

Extremely pleased with the FRP suspension.. if anything it could even go stiffer but it's all in what you're used to. Even going over rail road tracks and crap pavement it's extremely well mannered.

Of course I have yet to add summer tires with stiffer sidewalls so we'll see how that goes in the spring or summer.
 

GrabberBargeCaptain

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The car floats right off the showroom floor. By all means fix all the other stuff, but suspension is still in his future
Fair point, but on a flat highway a stock non PP GT (can't speak for PP, but i hear its not that much improved which is surprising) is at home.. it's when there's big dips and turns where the crap suspension rears its ugly head lol.
 

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CrazyHippie

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First check the wheel hubs for play. Sketchy side to side movement is a common issue when the hubs go bad (usually its a rear hub) and if you hit something that could easily be the case. Besides they dont last forever.

Get an alignment (at a good shop, not the dealership or a high volume chain) with very very slight toe in front and correct toe in at the rear.

If its still feeling side to side floaty… time for shocks.
I think that NightmareMoon has summed things up well for you. Address the routine stuff first - alignment followed by new/upgraded shocks. If that doesn't fix the issue, a rear IRS stabilization kit like the Steeda STH would be my next step. Front strut tower, cowl and K- braces will also help.

Firestone shops do solid alignment work and they offer a lifetime alignment that's worth the price for the Mustang, IMO.

Good luck!
 

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GregO

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I guess more is better than less….
 

TRDFurgesson

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Be careful with who does your alignments. I took my Mach to a shop to check what I had done myself. they changed the front camber. I told them to set -2.8 front. when I got it home set it up on my stands and discovered -1.7 left and -3.0 right side. I thought maybe it was my garage but couldn't measure any more than a tenth of a degree in the lateral angle of my garage floor. The next track day confirmed my readings and I haven't let another shop touch it. I have a Smart Strings setup that is pretty easy to use with their electronic camber gauge and frame.

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shogun32

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Im amazed no one has a rig that bolts to a stud, or uses an expanding collet for the wheel bore.
 
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Steve8989

Steve8989

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Too high IMO, 34 front 32 rear max cold imo. What tires? When the tread depth is thick it can cause this. Did this start right after the tires? The only other time I had a floating feeling other than overinflated drag radials or new deep tread tires was when one of my rear axle thrust washers was broken.
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