Best way to Jack up S550

[First Stang]

Im looking for guidance on how to safely raise my Mach 1 on jack stands using a standard floor jack. I will install jacking rails and change the oil. I will also inspect the undercarriage for loose bolts as I tend to get knocking at low speeds when I modulate the throttle. Is it safe to do one whole side first and then the other? Im thinking of driving over wood boards on all corners to help get additional clearance to do a midline approach. Suggestions appreciated.

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[Obsidian]

I haven’t bought any yet but I am strongly thinking some race ramps will do the trick. That would let you put on the jacking rails too

 

[SheepDog]

Im looking for guidance on how to safely raise my Mach 1 on jack stands using a standard floor jack. I will install jacking rails and change the oil. I will also inspect the undercarriage for loose bolts as I tend to get knocking at low speeds when I modulate the throttle. Is it safe to do one whole side first and then the other? Im thinking of driving over wood boards on all corners to help get additional clearance to do a midline approach. Suggestions appreciated.

The chassis is so rigid that you can jack up one side from a jackpoint (front or rear) and it will lift the entire side of the car. Then you can place your jackstands underneath. Put your front jackstands underneath the engine K member/subframe where it bolts to the body just under the passenger compartment. Then place your rear jackstands under the jacking points/pinch welds. Once you have installed jacking rails, then all you will need to do is jack up the car right in the middle of the jacking rail, then place both jackstands at the jack points and let it down.

 

[MiamiGT350]

I have a Quick Jack. I use these pucks for the pinch weld and then generic rubber blocks for additional clearance.

 

[txgt]

I went with the BMR Chassis Jacking Rail, Super Low Profile (CJR002). It’s really a shame that no one can see them ‘cause these things are beautiful! Combined with a polyurethane floor jack pad (as well as polyurethane jack stand pads) you can jack the entire side of the car up quickly, safely, and scratch free

 

[Wolfys11]

Sooo are yall saying using a floor jack and jack stands on the pinch weld is not a good idea? Ive been doing this with no reinforcement for like 6 years between 2 cars now hahaha

 

[23GreenGremlin]

If you already have the jacking rails, you can install them while the car is flat on the ground with very little effort. If not, the image below shows the approved jacking points. Of course, it is entirely possible you will have multiple under body panels in the way of some of the front points.

 

[_zOmbIE_]

I went with the BMR Chassis Jacking Rail, Super Low Profile (CJR002). It’s really a shame that no one can see them ‘cause these things are beautiful! Combined with a polyurethane floor jack pad (as well as polyurethane jack stand pads) you can jack the entire side of the car up quickly, safely, and scratch free

I had these in my wish list (bunch of browser bookmarks, lol) but the shipping to Canada is almost as much as the rails themselves

 

[First Stang]

Im also considering using a ramp but with the front spoiler being so low, I doubt I can clear it. If anyone has successfully used these, please share your insights.

 

[MAGS1]

Sooo are yall saying using a floor jack and jack stands on the pinch weld is not a good idea? Ive been doing this with no reinforcement for like 6 years between 2 cars now hahaha

LOL the pinch welds are more than sufficient. I just like having rails so I can place the jack anywhere along them to lift the car.

 

[MAGS1]

Im also considering using a ramp but with the front spoiler being so low, I doubt I can clear it. If anyone has successfully used these, please share your insights.

Race Ramps has an extended version that will work.
Edit, these: https://www.raceramps.com/ramps/race/p/rr-xt/

 

[MrDude_1]

Im also considering using a ramp but with the front spoiler being so low, I doubt I can clear it. If anyone has successfully used these, please share your insights.

Rhino ramps clear mine just fine.
I use them both on the front or both on the back.

Also when I need to do jack stands I have a low profile jack so I can slide it up under the rear diff, and by lifting from that center point The back gets high enough to stick them underneath the brace that the rear of the car has. If you look at the pictures someone posted above of the underside of the car, where the lift is being used, (And where it should be marked but it isn't) is where I place the jack stands. Easy to line up and quick and stable.

When I need the whole car up I usually put the front on the ramps and then put the rear on the jack stands, and then if I need to get higher in the front I can jack it up easier. I'm a huge fan of the rhino ramps.

Oh. And I do have the performance package so I have that little extra lip on the front and it's still clears the ramps.

However when I am jacking from the rear I make sure the jack handle is slightly angled to the side to clear the light and the "diffuser" fins.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

If you already have the jacking rails, you can install them while the car is flat on the ground with very little effort. If not, the image below shows the approved jacking points. Of course, it is entirely possible you will have multiple under body panels in the way of some of the front points.

I thought lifting by the pumpkin is not recommended? Also the jack stands on the rear portion near pumpkin is a first for me. Thanks for this visual though. I believe most of these points are shown in my Quickjack Manual.

 

[SheepDog]

I thought lifting by the pumpkin is not recommended? Also the jack stands on the rear portion near pumpkin is a first for me. Thanks for this visual though. I believe most of these points are shown in my Quickjack Manual.

Yes, avoid lifting by the differential. Since Ford installed these diff's incorrectly, with the bolts in shear, I wouldn't risk putting thousands of pounds of force on the bolts. (Especially the aluminum carriers in the non PP cars)

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

Yes, avoid lifting by the differential. Since Ford installed these diff's incorrectly, with the bolts in shear, I wouldn't risk putting thousands of pounds of force on the bolts. (Especially the aluminum carriers in the non PP cars)

Yeah, I would only lift by the diff in the live axle cars in the past.

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