Yikes!Front and rear passenger side bolts that connect the steel hydraulic brake tube to the stock rubber lines were cross threaded af from the factory. Took me a couple hours of an adjustable die and a small file to get the rear steel braided line installed, but it’s in.
Driver side took maybe 5 minutes.
Yep. Mine was so cross threaded that the whole fitting had to be replaced. Car was off the road for a few days while I waited for a mobile mechanic who I know, to come with his flaring tool. After I had that happen I googled it and a number of other owners had the same thing. Ford workers with what we call a she will be alright attitude.
Thanks!Gun smoke (medium)
https://bigwormgraphix.com/2018-2022-mustang-smoked-headlight-overlays/
Each side takes 30 mins, with blow dryer. Takes patience.
That looks nice!! How much are they? How's the install?I didn't do anything to it. But I will. Just recieved this beautifully handcrafted custom piece from ebay seller cfautomotor. I am blown away how nice this wheel is. A few other members have bought from them too. Can't wait to install it.
$399 U.S. plus $20 for shipping. You can see all the details here: cfautomotor
Full length Steeda jacking rails work ok with my 7000TL lift. I have to position both blocks as inward as possible though. If you still want to use pinch welds, you could use hockey pucks, but I don't think there would be enough ground clearance to fit them on top of the QJ blocks.I bought the Quickjack 5000TL from Costco on offer and as a bundle.
The jack came with pinch weld rubber blocks and flat rubber blocks. I found the Steeda rails were not long enough to have the blocks positioned on the Quickjack. I also wouldn’t feel safe under the car without some sort of U shape on the rails.
This was my first lift up, so will take a closer look this week to see what I can fabricate or buy to make a better job of it.
These would probably work, but I’ll make my own rather than paying out even more money. I’ll also look at designing something which may fit the rails.
PM me and I’ll let you know which direction in go in the end.
I’ve got a few days off work so after a walk to the local coffee shop (4 miles) with the misses and then a trip to the vets to get my pussy inspected, I got a few odds and sods done on the car
It finally came out of winter hibernation :
I got the door shuts washed.
The tailpipes polished (internally).
I had already stripped off, cleaned up and repainted the only rusty clip from under the hood (the one from the sound tube - that Ford U.K. only sell as part of the full sound tube assembly) :
And I used iron remover to clean up the pipe before refitting it :
I finally got my dead pedal assembly (hard to find for RHD) clipped back in place and vacuumed it for the photo :
And managed to get to the front diff bolts to clean off the rust, apply waxoyl and then cover them :
Not the easiest of things to get to lay on your back on the pavement lol. Whilst I was under there, I clocked the outer toe link bushes which really surprised me
Using the arch to the line in the tyre moulding, I dropped 5mm from the right side :
And 6mm from the left :
WD
[/QUOTE
Believe me, I tried …
Every soo often, they come as a charity thing on the top of innocent smoothies :
Having two girls in the house means pink is a pretty good second choice
I have more of those little hats, but my search continues …
WD
Did you replace the tow links previously? Is that why you needed to clock them and ended up that much lower?I’ve got a few days off work so after a walk to the local coffee shop (4 miles) with the misses and then a trip to the vets to get my pussy inspected, I got a few odds and sods done on the car
It finally came out of winter hibernation :
I got the door shuts washed.
The tailpipes polished (internally).
I had already stripped off, cleaned up and repainted the only rusty clip from under the hood (the one from the sound tube - that Ford U.K. only sell as part of the full sound tube assembly) :
And I used iron remover to clean up the pipe before refitting it :
I finally got my dead pedal assembly (hard to find for RHD) clipped back in place and vacuumed it for the photo :
And managed to get to the front diff bolts to clean off the rust, apply waxoyl and then cover them :
Not the easiest of things to get to lay on your back on the pavement lol. Whilst I was under there, I clocked the outer toe link bushes which really surprised me
Using the arch to the line in the tyre moulding, I dropped 5mm from the right side :
And 6mm from the left :
WD
