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What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

tosha

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Drove my son to school in the Mustang today. We're coming down to the final weeks of good weather before she goes away for the winter.

My SC isn't getting installed until Monday. I don't think I'll really get to test her this year unless we get some nice warm weather in October prior to winter rolling in. Need those tires to be nice and sticky LOL
Oh, come on!:crackup: we have at least 6 more weeks of mustang fun season. Your mustang won't turn into a maniac and putting some heat into those Rii's is not an issue, you still have line lock feature after all. 🤣
 

WoodburnGT

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Picked up a set of Weld beadlocks for next season.

FFB9ACD4-4C37-497B-BD85-B7DCB2938EFF.jpeg


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WildHorse

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GTP

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I vote Yes.



Won't make any difference. (Acoustic engineer)
I'll try to be brief.

Low frequencies are hard to attenuate. The wavelengths are long and require (really) large devices to be effective. High frequencies are short and easier to deal with. E.g. dynamat will attenuate the higher frequencies somewhat but not the mids or lows. It's also expensive (to me).

High frequency vibrations are smaller back and forth, but that doesn't mean they are quieter. Also the large body panels are effective transmitters of sound.

All of this is easily demonstrated by comparing noise level with rear seats up versus down.

Rubber bushings isolate road noise from transmitting through the suspension and framework into the cabin. But they also have lower cost so they are easy for the factory to justify.

I put spherical bearings in my car and hard rubber pucks at the diff points. Noise level is about the same to my ear, but I feel the road joints a little more. Hard bushings at the cradle points are not appropriate for my daily driver.
 
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TrackMustang

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Give her the real thing!
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Which one is that? I have a CF steering wheel and think this will be the only other piece of carbon I do, looking for the right one…
 

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lacanteen

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Installed the first mod on this car, gas door cover, gained 1 HP. I still have a box of under the hood bling (chrome), strut tower brace, Steeda hood struts, Steeda jacking rails, and Steeda G track brace to install. It's just too hot!

grape7.webp
 

WD Pro

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Nothing, because it’s still broken …

But I managed to accumulate some more parts for when it gets fixed :like:

Out with the Steeda supplied 10.9’s, hello 12.9’s with some stainless bush sleeves :

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I already had the Steeda cradle support bushes, but after seeing them on a U.K. car and how they hold up against salt / winter, I decided to modify them a little.

I re tapped the 10-32” UNF holes to M5 through holes and cleaned up the sharp edges of the bore holes (top as supplied / bottom modified) :

1663452048791.jpeg


The thread can now come all the way through making for easier fitment and reducing a dirt collection / corrosion point.

These things appear to be made as a set and then cut, rather than being fully interchangeable :

1663452260014.jpeg


Prepped for anodising :

1663452348819.jpeg


No more corrosion traps or bolt heads hidden down the bores and therefore hopefully easier to remove (if required) if the future :

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All set for dropping at the anodisers (hopefully next week), but I’m still unsure of colour - either green or red … ?

Crawled under the car without lifting it and managed to get some better photos of what started this work in the first place - look at the movement of the bolt head witness mark :

1663452700120.jpeg


The M14 bolt in a 17.x mm bore :

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And the teeth marks from where the bolt got hungry before finally giving up and shearing :

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Yeah thanks Ford, I wonder if they fix that design on the S650 … :facepalm:

WD :like:
 

Park

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Installed the first mod on this car, gas door cover, gained 1 HP. I still have a box of under the hood bling (chrome), strut tower brace, Steeda hood struts, Steeda jacking rails, and Steeda G track brace to install. It's just too hot!

grape7.webp
Were did you get the gas door cover ? And is it a cover ?
 
 








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