It’s been about 6 months and so far so good. If it does start to fade then I’ll just go over it. I swapped out my auto shift boot for a manual and I tried it on that before tackling the entire project. It takes time, started with the console, dash then door panels. Removed 1 seat at a time because it was definitely easier on a bench then in the car.
you betcha. Canadaseatskins web site, but box and tags are Kats'
Spray on the tires makes them black without all the oily mess.old school 60's detail.What do you use all the furniture polish for? Some kinda detailing secret?
... now that you have the toe sorted, you can drive out to Brighton and get somebody to do what you want.Due to finally completing the install of Steeda minimum drop springs, Ford Performance track struts, BMR cradle lock out and Steeda subframe bushings, had to get an alignment today. (I already had the Ford Perf track dampers in the rear but had to remove them for the spring swap.)
The performance shop was booked solid for 3 weeks so I took a chance going to the Ford dealer instead. I talked directly to the tech doing the alignment and told him it was lowered and he agreed to clock the bushings. Assuming he actually did that. My alignment wasn't too bad going in. I was surprised given all the pushing and pulling I did to get the subframe aligned. Just really bad toe setting on the drivers side. The tech told me after that he tried to adjust the rear passenger toe to match the drivers side but couldn't for some reason. I honestly don't think he tried and just fixed the front toe and called it done. For street driving and highway cruising I think the numbers are ok. Could be better but the car handles extremely well on the street and highways.
I've had more than one person ask me about my manual car after I made this change lol.
So the intent is that you replace the stock bolts, presumably one at a time, and then when you back the bolts out enough to really lower the cradle but the bolts won’t fully come out..? Then tighten the bolts, which raises the cradle and then replace the bolts again one at a time, back to the OEM bolts?Made me a cradle lowering kit.
I cut up a 1m length of 14mmx2.0 allthread from McMaster into 4 lengths of 10" each. I used an old Workmate to hold the rods and a battery powered saw. I ground the ends real nice. I chose the lowest strength steel because these are only used as a temporary tool.I I sourced the nuts and washers locally to save overall cost.
Took under an hour.
I plan to use these to lower the cradle enough to get the front diff insert bolts installed. Another benefit is that the cradle will raise with each bolt hole lined up when replacing the blue bolts.
That's some serious poke goin' on.
Almost correct. The studs are to accurately guide the cradle up or down. But the jack is what raises or lowers the cradle.
