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ColdShotxx

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Finishing up my Katzkin install. Perforated center black with Sunrise yellow stitching and barracuda yellow wings. Picture is before steaming so don't mind the wrinkles.
IMG_2169-2.jpg
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TonyNJ

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Finishing up my Katzkin install. Perforated center black with Sunrise yellow stitching and barracuda yellow wings. Picture is before steaming so don't mind the wrinkles.
IMG_2169-2.jpg
Is that difficult to do and have them look and feel factory or similar to how Roush and Shelby American do their custom work? I always wanted to do a set but figured it would look like a pair of covers from Autozone. Yours look great. B
 

compprep

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Is that difficult to do and have them look and feel factory or similar to how Roush and Shelby American do their custom work?
Tony, see my avater. Those are Roush which Katzhin makes for Roush. Installed myself as they were some type of leftover never installed by Roush or a dealer that sells Roush and they dealer install, my guess. Bought off e-bay. Not that hard. Maybe 6- 8 hours total. I followed a you tube video that helped ALOT! Pro can remove seat, cover, install new cover and seat back in car in less than 45 minutes!! One seat, not all of them!
 

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Bit_the_Bullitt

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$40 amazon Cdn to door.
Im probably the only one who will notice 🙃

Hahah, just caught my distorted reflection ... yes, I'm a leprechaun.

l2.webp


l1.webp
I've done the Diode Dynamics on mine myself, but looks good! I would be cautious of the Amazon ones.
I've bought mine from AmericanMuscle, brand called Axial. This lasted me about 6 months until it burnt up - smoke literally started pouring out and it melted the connector. Dealer replaced it at no charge, but then I went with Diode Dynamics. Pricey, but they're US made and offer 3yr warranty. The Axial (and AmericanMuscle for that matter) offered I think 30 days, which was pathetic.

Not to rain on your parade! Just watch out for it. LEDs get notoriously hot.
 

StangTime

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$40 amazon Cdn to door.
Im probably the only one who will notice 🙃

Hahah, just caught my distorted reflection ... yes, I'm a leprechaun.

l2.png


l1.png
I've done the Diode Dynamics on mine myself, but looks good! I would be cautious of the Amazon ones.
I've bought mine from AmericanMuscle, brand called Axial. This lasted me about 6 months until it burnt up - smoke literally started pouring out and it melted the connector. Dealer replaced it at no charge, but then I went with Diode Dynamics. Pricey, but they're US made and offer 3yr warranty. The Axial (and AmericanMuscle for that matter) offered I think 30 days, which was pathetic.

Not to rain on your parade! Just watch out for it. LEDs get notoriously hot.
I think 'rain' is the problem. Water gets inside these and starts shorting out. Make sure they get a good seal. Probably not a bad idea to silicone the connector barrel to the housing. I have been deciding if I want to risk trying these out. All of these LED marker lights have the same failure mode.
 

Tang

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I've done the Diode Dynamics on mine myself, but looks good! Pricey, but they're US made and offer 3yr warranty.
My DD side markers lasted just over 3 years before one broke (wouldn't light, then the cover separated at the seams sometime later) They wouldn't do anything for me and asked me to repurchase a set at full price. The stock side markers are back on
 

17Magnetic5.0

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I've done the Diode Dynamics on mine myself, but looks good! I would be cautious of the Amazon ones.
I've bought mine from AmericanMuscle, brand called Axial. This lasted me about 6 months until it burnt up - smoke literally started pouring out and it melted the connector. Dealer replaced it at no charge, but then I went with Diode Dynamics. Pricey, but they're US made and offer 3yr warranty. The Axial (and AmericanMuscle for that matter) offered I think 30 days, which was pathetic.

Not to rain on your parade! Just watch out for it. LEDs get notoriously hot.
I bought the cheapest Amazon ones I could find (20 bucks) and I’m going on close to 4 years with not one issue. I do however believe mine plug into the stock connector which then screws into the socket like a factory one would, so no issues with water or anything of the sort.
 

Bit_the_Bullitt

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I think 'rain' is the problem. Water gets inside these and starts shorting out. Make sure they get a good seal. Probably not a bad idea to silicone the connector barrel to the housing. I have been deciding if I want to risk trying these out. All of these LED marker lights have the same failure mode.
Very well could be moisture or water problem, but the connector is so well hidden in the bumper I would hope it's not that.

My DD side markers lasted just over 3 years before one broke (wouldn't light, then the cover separated at the seams sometime later) They wouldn't do anything for me and asked me to repurchase a set at full price. The stock side markers are back on
That's kind of disappointing. :( I went with them because of the warranty and they seemed to stand behind the product better, but time will tell.

I bought the cheapest Amazon ones I could find (20 bucks) and I’m going on close to 4 years with not one issue. I do however believe mine plug into the stock connector which then screws into the socket like a factory one would, so no issues with water or anything of the sort.
I think most of these have a similar connector as the stock bulb (194 I think?), at least the two kinds I've tried - red/black wire soldered to the LED board of various quality, heat shrink wrap that ends in a flat connector that plugs into the factory wiring.

Maybe I ought to look for signs of water intrusion, but so far they work well and mainly they do really look good, especially the smoked black on the green Bullitt.
 

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WD Pro

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Very well could be moisture or water problem, but the connector is so well hidden in the bumper I would hope it's not that.
As you can get your hand to them from under the car and without moving anything out of the way, water will find the backs for sure if you are an all weather driver.

I think even a standard jet wash to the outer lens face would get the connector wet on the back of the unit.

From a U.K. perspective this is why I opted not to do them (yet).

The U.K. cars aren’t illuminated as standard so people just bodge the holder (normally a push in rubber bung thing smeared in lots of silicone sealant).

I will do them once I can get the correct bulb holders that sit between the housing and the loom, that’s the thing that helps with the correct seal.

My U.K. ford dealer doesn’t seem to be able to find the bulb holder - I will pick a few up next time I am in the states :like:

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In the meantime, I have a standard set of USDM markers fitted with the hole bunged up on the back - just so I can get rid of the crappy orange reflectors that we get on our U.K. cars (that look horrible with grabber lime) :

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Standard U.K. spec :

1642109731213.webp


WD :like:
 

nustang

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Not to rain on your parade! Just watch out for it. LEDs get notoriously hot.
Yep, I'm curious how they will hold up. Made sure the socket and O-ring seated square.
Not under any illusion of quality, but fingers X'd. They dont feel cheap though.
I do prefer the smoked look of the lens when off.
 

Chola

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@Gnatsum21 Can you post of picture of how it fits in your door. I have the same thing, but the top flange doesn't fit flush into the door handle opening. The (amazon) picture shows it kinda recessed into the opening - but thats not how it sits in reality. I tried pushing it down hard - no luck. Short of dremelling the protruding flange/lib, I dont know how it would go flush, or a bit below the top surface.
 

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$40 amazon Cdn to door.
Im probably the only one who will notice 🙃

Hahah, just caught my distorted reflection ... yes, I'm a leprechaun.

l2.webp


l1.webp
Better looking than the ones with a single row of LEDs.
 

GT Pony

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@Gnatsum21 Can you post of picture of how it fits in your door. I have the same thing, but the top flange doesn't fit flush into the door handle opening. The (amazon) picture shows it kinda recessed into the opening - but thats not how it sits in reality. I tried pushing it down hard - no luck. Short of dremelling the protruding flange/lib, I dont know how it would go flush, or a bit below the top surface.
Are the left and right specific? Try swapping the locations to see if that makes a difference.
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