Suspension Upgrades for Daily

[Dana Pants]

Adjustables can be nice for people who use for performance driving regularly, and need to go from rebound damping ratios of 0.3-0.4 on the street to 0.6-0.7 for autocross/track, but nicely matched fixed is a better option for the road. It's easy for people to muck things up with a knob to turn, and it's just more parts that can break. It's easy to sell knobs.

Compression damping ratios of Koni yellows is ~0.54 with stock PP GT springs. Rebound isn’t measurable any easy way. I measured this by dropping my car off a floor jack and using a cell phone accelerometer + my nerd skills.

There were other plots, but I’m not near the computer.

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[Brian@BMVK]

Compression damping ratios of Koni yellows is ~0.54 with stock PP GT springs. Rebound isn’t measurable any easy way. I measured this by dropping my car off a floor jack and using a cell phone accelerometer + my nerd skills.

There were other plots, but I’m not near the computer.

How did you do that independently F/R? That also only gives you damping at one shock speed and rebound definitely still comes into play at the end. Nice work though, I appreciate people doing this.

 

[Dana Pants]

How did you do that independently F/R? That also only gives you damping at one shock speed and rebound definitely still comes into play at the end. Nice work though, I appreciate people doing this.

I jacked up the car from the pumpkin and then dropped the jack while a cellphone was mounted to the rear glass.

for the front I jacked from the front cross member with the phone mounted to the hood.

Most people would prefer not to jack up a car that way, but it works.

The vehicle responds at the Damped natural frequency. One speed, but also the most critical speed where the shock has to work hardest.

 

[Dave2013M3]

Compression damping ratios of Koni yellows is ~0.54 with stock PP GT springs. Rebound isn’t measurable any easy way. I measured this by dropping my car off a floor jack and using a cell phone accelerometer + my nerd skills.

There were other plots, but I’m not near the computer.

 

[capt_sneaky]

So i went ahead with the ford performance shocks and struts. I am currently doing the rears and ran into a problem..

after removal of the OEM shock absorber i started to put in the new one from ford which came with a new mounting bracket and so forth. The issue i am having is getting the shock absorber to compress to align it in hole to bolt them down. I bolted down the two 15mm bolts that hold the bottom on the shock absorber but i am having issues in compressing the absorber so i can align it. Any Adivce?

 

[shogun32]

. Any Adivce?

ratchet strap. And bolt in the top first.

 

[capt_sneaky]

ratchet strap. And bolt in the top first.

That's actually genius

 

[Roadway 5.0]

ratchet strap. And bolt in the top first.

Wish I had been this clever. I opted for the 60 second ab crunch method.

 

[capt_sneaky]

I need some help my guys.

I am at the step where i am transferring the old spring onto the new shock assembly. The issue i am having is the nut that holds the mount onto the shaft of the shock will not tighten onto the thread. I noticed that the shaft spins as i am trying to thread the nut. Did anyone else run into this issue and if so how did you do it?

 

[shogun32]

clamp the shaft in a vise. or use locking vise grips with protected jaws. sounds like you also might want to chase the threads.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

I need some help my guys.

I am at the step where i am transferring the old spring onto the new shock assembly. The issue i am having is the nut that holds the mount onto the shaft of the shock will not tighten onto the thread. I noticed that the shaft spins as i am trying to thread the nut. Did anyone else run into this issue and if so how did you do it?

Use an impact to run it down, and then check torque by holding the top with a wrench and using a crow's foot to torque. Realistically you can achieve the torque easily with a good sized wrench and eating your spinach.

 

[Emilbadal]

I had that issue too.What I did waso the nut was threaded up to the plastic locking ring (it's good 5-6 turns) I unhook the spring compressor and mount the assembly on the car, put 3 nuts up top and bottom 2 bolt of the shock and then lowered the car, and then used the impact to run it down. The weight of the car locks the shaft of the strut and prevents it from spinning.but you have to make sure that your strut mount is in correct position and alignment with your strut(double check everything before committing to it)...I wasn't comfortable with using a vise grip, didn't want to take any chances of scoring it...

 

[capt_sneaky]

Another random question what do I set the same spring compression into the new shock/strut? Do I measure the spring compression height on my previous set up ?

 

[thornclaw]

I need some help my guys.

I am at the step where i am transferring the old spring onto the new shock assembly. The issue i am having is the nut that holds the mount onto the shaft of the shock will not tighten onto the thread. I noticed that the shaft spins as i am trying to thread the nut. Did anyone else run into this issue and if so how did you do it?

mount the strut on the car and lower the car to the ground
once the weight of the car is sitting on the strut hat you should be able to torque it down with a regular socket and torque wrench
also this video may help

 

[S550_GTCS]

set on eBay now ... $550 shipped.. I put it on my watch list and they sent me an offer for $495.. I’m not ready to pull the trigger and figured I would share

I got the same offer but didnt go with it. Noticed it's being sold from a pawn shop and talked myself out of it. lol

Thanks for the heads up though.

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